Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
First time I've seen something like this - and I have no idea what caused it or where else to begin. I replaced my headlight bulbs with new ones - got both headlights now, great - check the highbeams, and theyre working. Awesome.
No little red light. Ok, that's odd - but luckily I've been meaning to swap light switches. Install my new switch... And still no red light. Ok, that's a little annoying, but it's ok - I've got some new bulbs Incase it's blown.
New bulb didn't fix it either.

So:
New headlights.
New switch (all other lights work).
New indicator bulb - every bulb on the car is new.
For giggles I checked the fuses and replaced them.
For extra giggles I replaced the floor high/low switch.

What in the hell else is there to check??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #3

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ok, so this is strange. When I check the green/black terminal at the 3 wire highbeam/lowbeam switch - I get just under 11v.
Yet, when I check the green/black wire at the socket - it's at MOST getting 6v.

Guess I'll run a new wire to the socket?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,807 Posts
my brite light has never light on the dash. i never drive at night, an michigan doesn't inspect are classics lucky us.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
376 Posts
Mass is the same with inspections. No emissions but everything else has to be in working order.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
For future use - since the highbeam indicator socket is one wire and grounds to the metal hole it presses in to - if you're getting an odd voltage drop like I was and want to eliminate all the BS - this socket and bulb that I used was a great fix. Self tapping screw for your ground under the rocker panel/upper firewall area - and tap into the power coming from the green/black wire at the H/L switch!


 

·
Premium Member
1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
Joined
·
1,537 Posts
Mike, how did you know his car was a '64?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,982 Posts
Mike, how did you know his car was a '64?
I looked at his posts, beginning with this one:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Unless you are trying to keep the car completely original everyone should go to the website www.madelectrical.com and review the tech section. The power for all of our lights goes through the dash then back out through the fuses and switches to lights. With it traveling all that distance of wire the voltage will drop due to resistance and he suggest the wire gauge may be a little to small or what the engineers believed was just ”OK” to run the electrical. This guy suggest using the horn buss bar as the power supply since it is charged directly from the alternator to get full voltage and use the switch to engage a relay to control the lights on/off, this allows full voltage to lights and less voltage is required to run through the switch. Basically this the same principle used on modern vehicles. Has anyone tried this? I plan to but currently car is in pieces.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Unless you are trying to keep the car completely original everyone should go to the website www.madelectrical.com and review the tech section. The power for all of our lights goes through the dash then back out through the fuses and switches to lights. With it traveling all that distance of wire the voltage will drop due to resistance and he suggest the wire gauge may be a little to small or what the engineers believed was just ”OK” to run the electrical. This guy suggest using the horn buss bar as the power supply since it is charged directly from the alternator to get full voltage and use the switch to engage a relay to control the lights on/off, this allows full voltage to lights and less voltage is required to run through the switch. Basically this the same principle used on modern vehicles. Has anyone tried this? I plan to but currently car is in pieces.
That's more or less what I wired mine up to. Every thing under the hood has been rewired using diagrams found on here/online and just using common sense for eliminating things like the external regulator and resistance wires, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
567 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Unless you are trying to keep the car completely original everyone should go to the website www.madelectrical.com and review the tech section. The power for all of our lights goes through the dash then back out through the fuses and switches to lights. With it traveling all that distance of wire the voltage will drop due to resistance and he suggest the wire gauge may be a little to small or what the engineers believed was just ”OK” to run the electrical. This guy suggest using the horn buss bar as the power supply since it is charged directly from the alternator to get full voltage and use the switch to engage a relay to control the lights on/off, this allows full voltage to lights and less voltage is required to run through the switch. Basically this the same principle used on modern vehicles. Has anyone tried this? I plan to but currently car is in pieces.
That's more or less what I wired mine up to. Every thing under the hood has been rewired using diagrams found on here/online and just using common sense for eliminating things like the external regulator and resistance wires, etc.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top