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Hey guys, got a nitrous question.......Do you need to run a purge line and bottle heater for a 100 shot of nitrous....is it really needed or not....thanks in advance guys
 

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bottle heater

When you run in cold weather you will need a bottle heater. The pressure needs to be at lest 900 psi. and the only way to get it up is a heater. The purge line is also a good idea because of air in lines. When running nitrous always keep the correct psi on nitrous and fuel side. Also, you need to retard the timing. There are a lot people with good info on the site about nitrous. :yes:

Tony
74 nova
11.7 e/t
408 stroker
150 shot
 

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Do you need to run a purge line and bottle heater for a 100 shot of nitrous
I've gone thru many bottles with a 200 shot, and I have neither.
I blipped the switch while holding the throttle about 2500 rpm, just before pulling into the water box. If the weather was cold, I would lay the bottle in the engine compartment and close the hood.
 

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I've gone thru many bottles with a 200 shot, and I have neither.
I blipped the switch while holding the throttle about 2500 rpm, just before pulling into the water box.
I agree. Just tap the button and purge into the motor. Bottle heater is good if you are looking for bracket race consistency from the kit but not required. If its real cold out, you'll just run rich. 100 shot ain't much unless its a Honda. ;)
 

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AS STATED ABOVE NIETHER ONE IS A MUST. BOTTLE PRESURE IS IMPORTANT THOUGH. IF YOU DO HAVE AHEATER IT CAN GET THE BOTTLE TO HOT THUS INCREASING LINE PRESURE, WITH TO MUCH LINE PRESURE YOU COULD CAUSE SOME DAMAGE. WE MADE A HEATER TANK THAT WAMS WATER UP AND WE SET THE BOTTLES IN THE WATER. IF THE BOTTLE IS WARM TO THE TOUCH IT SHOULD BE AROUND 900-1000 PSI. IF ITS HOT YOUR GOING TO GO FOR A FUN RIDE!:yes: AND PURGING THE SYSTEM INTO THE MOTOR IS THE WAY I HAVE BEEN DOING IT FOR THE PAST 12 YEARS. WHEN YOU PURGE THROUGH THE MOTOR IT MIGHT TAKE 2 OR 3 HITS BUT YOU WILL DEF, KNOW WHEN ITS HITING LIKE ITS SOPOSED TO. HOPE THIS HELPS.
 

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heater

I have used the hot water and heating pad and laying bottle on hot motor, but that was in cold weather. Hot weather no heater need. However, a heater with a thermosat is the way to go in the winter if you have the extra cash. It makes it much easier for me to just filp a switch.

Tony
 

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If looking for consistant pressure, the regulated heaters are the best...

unless you are a N/T street racer - then its all about the propane torch :rolleyes:
 

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Neither is a necessity...Either crack the line or bang it through the engine @ 3000rpm...As for heat, I usually use ye olde propane torch
 

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none

I have in the past used a small torch bottle get get the bottle nice and hot 1300-1500 purge it will the gas pedal in the water box:yes::yes::yes:
 

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I have to disagree with a few of the comments on here if you are serious about this and want safety and consistency. Find a process that works and repeat it exactly every time and have the same bottle pressure when you launch. 900#-950# which usually means bottle temp is 90*-95*. You can also use a hand held infrared gun to check their temp.

Heating a nitrous bottle with a torch is not only dangerous but can get you tossed out of most tracks if they follow safety standards. It also isn't well suited as it creates hot spots in the bottle vs saturation over a larger area that you get with heater blankets or hot water tanks.

You will want to purge just prior to your run to not only ensure the nitrous lines are full, but to check out part of your system. Some people purge through the engine but there is no advantage to doing so and only opens up opportunity for bad things to happen if there is an issue.

You can get away with sloppy practices at low power levels but if you want to get serious about it and spray heavy levels, you won't have the luxury of making mistakes or you will be making your parts suppliers very happy.

Have fun with it and do it right...it will be a much more safe and lighter on your wallet. :D
 

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I have to disagree with a few of the comments on here if you are serious about this and want safety and consistency. Find a process that works and repeat it exactly every time and have the same bottle pressure when you launch. 900#-950# which usually means bottle temp is 90*-95*. You can also use a hand held infrared gun to check their temp.

Heating a nitrous bottle with a torch is not only dangerous but can get you tossed out of most tracks if they follow safety standards. It also isn't well suited as it creates hot spots in the bottle vs saturation over a larger area that you get with heater blankets or hot water tanks.

You will want to purge just prior to your run to not only ensure the nitrous lines are full, but to check out part of your system. Some people purge through the engine but there is no advantage to doing so and only opens up opportunity for bad things to happen if there is an issue.

You can get away with sloppy practices at low power levels but if you want to get serious about it and spray heavy levels, you won't have the luxury of making mistakes or you will be making your parts suppliers very happy.

Have fun with it and do it right...it will be a much more safe and lighter on your wallet. :D
Couldn't agree more. Part of the tuning is with bottle pressure. 950psi is what most manufacturers use to set their power levels on jetting. Too much pressure and the system will be lean, too little pressure and it will be rich. Same as fuel pressure. I believe 5.5psi is base. More fuel psi runs rich, less psi runs lean. Dont know what kind of fuel system you are using but, i highly recommend you run a fuel pressure safety switch. Its adjustable, i set mine at 4psi. So if my fuel pressure drops below that it shuts the nitrous system off. I know you'll get people saying its not necessary but all it takes is a clogged fuel filter, electric pump problem or insufficient fuel. Also make sure you set your fuel pressure for the nitrous while its flowing thru the jet your using.
 

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I have to disagree with a few of the comments on here if you are serious about this and want safety and consistency. Find a process that works and repeat it exactly every time and have the same bottle pressure when you launch. 900#-950# which usually means bottle temp is 90*-95*. You can also use a hand held infrared gun to check their temp.

Heating a nitrous bottle with a torch is not only dangerous but can get you tossed out of most tracks if they follow safety standards. It also isn't well suited as it creates hot spots in the bottle vs saturation over a larger area that you get with heater blankets or hot water tanks.

You will want to purge just prior to your run to not only ensure the nitrous lines are full, but to check out part of your system. Some people purge through the engine but there is no advantage to doing so and only opens up opportunity for bad things to happen if there is an issue.

You can get away with sloppy practices at low power levels but if you want to get serious about it and spray heavy levels, you won't have the luxury of making mistakes or you will be making your parts suppliers very happy.

Have fun with it and do it right...it will be a much more safe and lighter on your wallet. :D
BASICALY WHAT I SAID!:D BUT THERE IS ONE THING THAT I WOULD SAY. IF YOU PURGE THROUGH THE MOTOR AND SOMETHING FAILS, AT LEAST IT FELS ON OR BEFORE THE LINE. (NOT IN ALL CASES) INSTEAD OF IT FAILING MID WAY THROUGH YOUR RUN. WHICH IS NO FUN I HEAR!:eek:
 

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All good points and I might add one more that I've learned in the last couple of years...being too rich (fat) on the fuel side is as bad or worse on hurting parts as being lean.

Learning how to read plugs is critical to watching to see how happy your engine is.
 
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