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Discussion Starter #41
All good info and great advice. Thank you.

So what would be the honest difference between a stock set of lapped and polished 062s and a new set of aluminum heads.
 

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The vortecs will make a difference on your engine depending on what heads you have now. A set of aluminum heads will outflow the vortecs, and weigh 50 lbs less.
 

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The Vortecs are excellent street heads up to about 350 horsepower, not necessarily good RACE heads. The modern combustion chamber is very good with regular gas, and doesn’t need a bunch timing advance.
 

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I say rebuild it and do it yourself, it’s only nuts and bolts and there are a ton of good vids/reading/forums to help you thru it.

I built a 327 abc with vortec heads and a small cam. Super fun street toy and very easy on the wallet relatively speaking.

Like others have mentioned here budgets and hot rodding are arch enemies. Good news is the hot rod typically wins. Put a plan together that includes what you want to do with the car and the entire drivetrain. Weight of car, Gears, tires, Tranny, converter, pistons, cam, heads, carb are the key players in a good plan.

I know how spending money on a mistake feels, that’s why I call them opportunities as I get to go back to the garage and do something I really enjoy doing again. Do that enough times and you’ll be here helping others in no time... ask me how I know 😎

good luck ask questions and have fun!

oh and I bought new vortec heads, used heads that come with a promise is a bad start to a great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
h and I bought new vortec heads, used heads that come with a promise is a bad start to a great idea!
I hear ya! I ended up going with the new promaxx 2169 aluminum heads. Now Im gonna buy a an intake manifold to fit my holley 4150.

Also who can suggest single plane vs double plane intake manifolds and why. Been doing research so I know the difference. Just want opinions.
 

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Doesn’t sound like your building a max effort hi rev engine here so I’d be targeting a dual plane intake. I personally like edelbrock performer rpm dual plane, good all around hot rod intake with a little rise to it and it fits under the hood of our rides. The dual plane aspect of an intake improves bottom and mid range performance while a single is focused on top end performance. Each will work on a street toy just fine it’s just a relative comparison.

congrats on the heads too, those will help it motivate. Are you thinking about a cam? That would help unlock more of the performance of the heads you bought. You can always add a cam later as well and enjoy what you have until then. The above intake can be used with the cam you have or one you buy later to as long as you don’t drastically change what you want out of your engine.... like say you suddenly want more of a strip car than a street car. If that’s the case most elect to go single plane as the throttle position is either full open or full close.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Doesn’t sound like your building a max effort hi rev engine here so I’d be targeting a dual plane intake. I personally like edelbrock performer rpm dual plane, good all around hot rod intake with a little rise to it and it fits under the hood of our rides. The dual plane aspect of an intake improves bottom and mid range performance while a single is focused on top end performance. Each will work on a street toy just fine it’s just a relative comparison.

congrats on the heads too, those will help it motivate. Are you thinking about a cam? That would help unlock more of the performance of the heads you bought. You can always add a cam later as well and enjoy what you have until then. The above intake can be used with the cam you have or one you buy later to as long as you don’t drastically change what you want out of your engine.... like say you suddenly want more of a strip car than a street car. If that’s the case most elect to go single plane as the throttle position is either full open or full close.
I think I will be upgrading the cam. That's the next step. I am working on pulling the engine now to work on the bay a little bit and to fix some leaks. Might as well do it now. Any cam suggestions. It will only be a street car... But sometimes the way I drive it should be on a track haha

407830

Drained fluids and pulled radiator. Marking hoses and so on. I'm thinking while the engine is out that I will upgrade front suspension and booster/brakes. Maybe even do a disc swap. That would make me really happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Also I found this intake and cam. Tell me what you guys think. Someone mentioned the performer intake so I'm sure that's fine
407853

My car already has a mild cam in it so I won't know what kind is in it right now but does this cam seem ok? I want to upgrade not downgrade. Lol
407854
 

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I would skip the ued Vortecs and get a new set from Scoggin Dickey that is prepped for high lift. Stock Vortec heads are only good for .450 lift. if you are on a budget you may get away with new rings and bearings.
 

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these are a good budget head https://sdparts.com/i-23901396-sdpc-sd8060a2-vortec-sb-chevrolet-cylinder-head-with-0-525-valve-spring-upgrade.html
I would skip the ued Vortecs and get a new set from Scoggin Dickey that is prepped for high lift. Stock Vortec heads are only good for .450 lift. if you are on a budget you may get away with new rings and bearings.
Never mind, I just saw you went with ProMaxx. Yes a Performer RPM and that cam would be a good choice and a small 2400 stall would help.
 

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Ahhh, good(bad!)old '882's....listed as 76cc chamber that is more likely to actually be 78+cc, open chamber, smogger head....tend to be crack prone since they are a lightweight casting.

You're going to pick up 60-70Hp just from the head change, even if you change nothing else....40+ cfm airflow, about 1.6 points of compression, 44 lbs less weight.

Performer RPM, Weiand Speed Warrior 8150(old name Stealth)or Summit Stage II(I believe made by Weiand for Summit), Professional Products Typhoon

Or Summit Stage III, Professional Products Typhoon, TrickFlow StreetBurner, Dart SHP, Performer RPM Air-Gap if you want an Air Gap manifold.

You do know you are going to need head bolt washers to put those aluminum heads on, correct??
Bolts used without washers will tear up the aluminum head .
I like to at least use the smaller 1/2" wrench head new stock replacement vortec era bolts along with washers.

You can spend the $$$ for ARP bolts or for studs if you want...but it doesn't gain you anything worthwhile if you are using a stock block....the threads will fail in the block before the fastener ever will.

If you are gong to re-use the stock rockers, I'd recommend you get a set of polylocks for them and ditch the stock crimp style adjuster nuts....those crimp nuts tear up the stud threads and you don't want that on your new heads.

Don't forget you need hardened pushrods for the aluminum heads too, because of the guideplates. Competition Products is a great source for those too, many choices. Just a hardened 1010 material will be fine for any hydro flat tappet cam.
 

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The only decision you will make, of any importance, is what to do about your heads. Good news is, anything you choose will be an improvement on the 882’s. Basically it just comes down to money. If your looking for the biggest bang for the buck, nothing will even come close to a used set of stock Vortecs. If money is no object, then the aftermarket is full of many fine options.
 

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Ganoman, I think the aluminum heads you just purchased along with the cam/lifters and the intake manifold you posted would really wake your engine up... while still maintaining decent street manners. Be sure you also use the appropriate components as Ericnova mentioned in post #55. You are also going to need the correct thread sealers, assembly lubricants, and gaskets for this task.

Note: Once your heads are removed from the engine, it might also be beneficial for you to find out how far down the piston sits in the cylinder bore at TDC (piston to deck clearance). You would normally use a Deck Bridge and a Dial Indicator to determine this measurement (see below).
407859

The purpose of this is to help with the selection of the appropriate head gasket thickness to achieve a desired "quench" height. If the quench distance is too large, engine detonation is possible (even with optimal ignition timing). If the quench distance is too small, engine damage could accrue (piston could contact the head at higher rpms). Below are a couple of write-ups that explain quench in more detail. As you can see, there is more to building a well performing engine than just bolting on a bunch of aftermarket parts.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/ideal-quench-height/

You could probably get by with your stock torque converter, but a little bit of a higher stall speed than stock would better suit the cam you selected. I have attached a link to Edge Racing Converters... and I think the "Mild Street Edge" would be perfect for your build. I run the "Street Edge" converter in my Nova and love it!
 
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You also need to make sure the springs on the aluminum head are compatible with the hydraulic camshaft. I'd still go with a hyd. roller.
 

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