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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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What is the problem with your existing engine?... and why the desire to replace parts?
Did you ever get your fuel delivery issues sorted out (from your previous discussion)?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
What is the problem with your existing engine?... and why the desire to replace parts?
Did you ever get your fuel delivery issues sorted out (from your previous discussion)?
Yes looked at it with FIL and I just needed to do some trial and error. I will update that post. The Studdering was lack of fuel.

There isn't anything wrong with my engine. I just read that those vortec heads can give you a nice little bump in hp. I am willing to do the work so I am pulling my current engine so I can clean and inspect the engine bay and frame. And I'm going to paint the engine also fix a couple leaks.
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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There isn't anything wrong with my engine. I just read that those vortec heads can give you a nice little bump in hp. I am willing to do the work so I am pulling my current engine so I can clean and inspect the engine bay and frame. And I'm going to paint the engine also fix a couple leaks.
Got it!... Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Got it!... Thanks!
No thank you!!

Now that the cars running good I guess I just want to upgrade it since I'm going to want to do that no matter what. I have a curse in which I can't leave well enough alone.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Exactly except I stuck with the straight plug version which are part number 2169.
Cool. So if I wanted to just bolt those to my engine right now what else would I need. I need an intake right? Would the cam need to be changed?
 

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70 Nova, full race w/355 hilborn alcohol inj. The newest addition 1964 Chevy II 350 my cruiser
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Just wanted to add my 2 cents, I've done a couple of engine builds myself for my 70, and if you are going to invest in those new heads I would say yes to the new intake, and I would upgrade the cam and lifters to a nice Hydraulic, or a Mechanical one. Over the years I've used Crane, Lunati, and Isky cams. Crane has alot of nice grinds that are going to give you some nice HP at a reasonable price, and still be good for street/strip use and pump gas.
 

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All I can say is don’t be afraid to take it on yourself. That is part of the hobby. Yes dollars are a big part, and yes a crate motor is most likely cheaper. But the hobby is dying, machine shops are closing based on costs of labor. I’ve told people that wanted to build a 305 because they had one, go for it. Build the best combo you can and be proud of it. I’ve been building engines for 30 years. Started by watching my dad, even got a job at a machine shop to learn. My last engine was built by me in my garage, made 980 hp on race gas. You can even have it run on a dyno to test it all before putting it in the car to save effort.
 

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No - "not right". You can get all of those things - heads, cams, intakes. Its just that may not get you where you want to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
So I found these pretty cheap on FB market place. Whatcha guys think? Listing labeled as such...


Nice Set of Vortec Heads 062 Casting Number!!

Valves have been Lapped and Polished!

Has brand new Comp Cams Valve Seals!
Has Surface rust but heads are in good condition!!
407769

407770

407771
407772
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Also this is the casting numbers for my block.
407773

And aren't there supposed to bed numbers hear? That's the passenger side valve cover to the left and the back of the alternator to the right. There's no markings anywhere around here.
407774
 

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Discussion Starter #34
It's the motor that came with the car. I bought this told it was a 350. I feel really stupid.
 

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And yes that pad on the passenger side is usually where the serial number stampings are. Either it was never stamped or the block has been decked is my guess.
 

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Hey GanoMan. Was wondering if you resolved all your prior issues. Hope everyone is healing and doing better. Learning is a good thing. If you rebuild it, you'll know what you have. But, crate engines have a lot to offer. They come with all sorts of components and can be purchased as a short block (you add on what you like/already have) or long block (complete engine) or turn key (pull the old one and put new one in). And a "Warranty". Along with the vendors mentioned in other replies you can also check out Pace Performance. They have a $250 rebate going on through Sept. Other vendors may have something similar. Advise already given to make sure all components complement each other and work together is crucial. Good Luck in which every way you go.
 

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If you aren't familiar with the way things go inside a engine you really need some help on your first build. Building a engine isn't really hard if you know what you are doing and what you are looking at/for. If you don't know "how" to build a engine you are asking for trouble just jumping out and trying to do it yourself. Little things like which way the rods and pistons go in matter. There is a rod side and a journal side to each rod and the pistons fit in the engine a certain way also. For the money you are going to spend looking for a used set of vortec heads you can probably pick up the phone and order a new set ready to bolt on. Once you find a used set you are still going to have to have them cleaned up and worked.

It's just me but if there was any way possible I would upgrade to a hydraulic roller camshaft. It is free HP and there is also very little risk when it gets time to break the camshaft in. I've been building engines for almost forty years and to date I've never flattened a lobe on a camshaft but with the materials they have removed in the oil it can happen even if you do everything right.

I went with a set of the ATK aluminum heads on my car. They are made by Pro Filer and are in the same neighborhood as the Pro Maxx heads cost wise. Always buy the best heads and camshaft you can when dealing with a small block chevy.
 
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