Chevy Nova Forum banner

301 - 320 of 389 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
You'll need to check the clearance for the cam button to the inside of the aluminum cover, so don't bend up the lock tabs around the cam bolt heads yet. Either the inside of the cover will likely need to be machined, or the length of the button filed/sanded shorter,
I usually just trim the base of the button until the cover will fit without the gasket, than maybe trim .003"-.005" more off the button and let the gasket thickness provide the rest of the needed clearance to get somewhere around .010"-.013" total.
You may have to trim the contact end of the button too, might not be able to get all you need off the base end of it since you need some of the base to make it stay centered.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter #302
Yes I was doing too ask about that. Apparently I forgot to include that in my last post.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
No, just assembly paste/lube on the pushrod cup/pushrod tip and then just pour some motor oil in each poly lock pocket to lube up the needle bearings after they are on the head, just before you put the valve covers on for the last time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Only a couple places I can thnk of with that size, but any factory plug would be either square male head or square female head, and be made of steel.
That looks like a hardware/parts store brass hex plug??

Looks like 1/8" pipe thread (about 3/8" measured size on the threads)??

Places for a plug that small:...
Frst location, above the tining chain cover and slightly to the passenger side, that plug is usually a male square head, and this hole location isn't present in all blocks so yours may not have one. i can't tell from the pics but looks like your block doesn't have that location? Above timing cover and waterpump leg, at about 11:00 in that little pocket area of the front of the block.
Second ocation would be above the oil filter mount area, at the end of an oil passage on the outside of the block.
Third location would be sombody had the oil presure gauge port beside the distributor plugged instead of using it for the gauge or dash light.

It doesn't go anywhere inside or at either end of the block main galley plugs in the bellhousing or timing chain area, size looks too small and those are all socket head, not hex head.

It may be someting that doesn't go to you at all, just ended up in your stuff by accident.

If it does happen to be 1/4" pipe(about 1/2" threads) then it could be a water drain plug, from center bottom of block on each side just above the oil pan rail. Those are hex head steel from the factory
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter #308
Hey dudes out of no where I ended up getting a stomach ulcer🙄 so build is on a short pause. I pretty much have all the parts I need so when I'm feeling a little bit better I will be hitting it hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Hello men. Had a rough time with covid. Got two little guys at home. Haven't worked on my Nova in months. BUT after finally doing some research and thinking hard. I'm ready to spend some time and $$$$ on my Nova again.

I've come up with the idea that I am going to pull my engine and tear it down to the block.

I've never done this before but I am very eager to start. I've watched about 10 videos of engine tear downs multiple times and I have gathered a few different things. And one of those things is that I know nothing about my engine. So I bought a used engine stand and engine hoist.

So here are my questions/concerns..

1. I got a quote to get my block baked, cleaned, bored, honed. .30 over for $450 does this sound right? If I do this I need new pistons or no?

2. I am looking for 062 or 906 heads. I know I'll need a new intake manifold. What else will I need. I have a 650 holley. If I can't find any what are a good set of heads around $400-500?

I'm just ready to start learning about my engine and upgrading it. Not looking to get 400hp but I'd like to get as much as possible.

Tell me what I need to know. There's some really good and a lot of misleading info out there. It's hard for a new guy to differentiate. View attachment 407719
Feel free to be mean, I can take it as long as you're helpful. Haha
Hello men. Had a rough time with covid. Got two little guys at home. Haven't worked on my Nova in months. BUT after finally doing some research and thinking hard. I'm ready to spend some time and $$$$ on my Nova again.

I've come up with the idea that I am going to pull my engine and tear it down to the block.

I've never done this before but I am very eager to start. I've watched about 10 videos of engine tear downs multiple times and I have gathered a few different things. And one of those things is that I know nothing about my engine. So I bought a used engine stand and engine hoist.

So here are my questions/concerns..

1. I got a quote to get my block baked, cleaned, bored, honed. .30 over for $450 does this sound right? If I do this I need new pistons or no?

2. I am looking for 062 or 906 heads. I know I'll need a new intake manifold. What else will I need. I have a 650 holley. If I can't find any what are a good set of heads around $400-500?

I'm just ready to start learning about my engine and upgrading it. Not looking to get 400hp but I'd like to get as much as possible.

Tell me what I need to know. There's some really good and a lot of misleading info out there. It's hard for a new guy to differentiate. View attachment 407719
Feel free to be mean, I can take it as long as you're helpful. Haha
So after reading this I'm definitely thinking that is the way I'll go eventually. So now my notes immediate question is basically right now I can't just get new vortec heads and a matching cam and intake that fits. Right?
Save grief and money . Buy a New GM [or equiv] crate motor. Buy it as Complete as possible-ready to plug-in and play. Good Machine Shops are far and few these daz. Those still in business arn't inexpensive.
Highly recco RPM limiter to keep it running much longer.......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Hope you feel better soon, your abrupt end to this thread was like the season end of Dallas when JR got shot, we want to hear that its finally going down the road!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter #314
I'll be in the garage tonight so I'm sure I'll have some questions. On the list right now is finish the second headers spring shims. And trim down the plastic cam button.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter #315
Cam button was shaved last night successfully. I shaved enough of so the cover sits flush and I didn't go anymore. Now the gasket will do the rest.

I started transferring the plugs and what not from my old intake to my new one last night.

How do you seal the plugs with the hex heads? It definitely is a snug fit do they need it?
409475
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Teflon pipe thread tape, or teflon plumbers teflon paste sealer.

They are tapered threads, so technically if you get them tight enough they wouldn't require any sealer....you'll likely never get them back out if you need to, or possibly round off the hex trying to get them that tight or get them back out. Worse chance of them corroding in also with no sealer or tape.
Sealng the threads is a better way to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
340 Posts
Discussion Starter #317
Teflon pipe thread tape, or teflon plumbers teflon paste sealer.

They are tapered threads, so technically if you get them tight enough they wouldn't require any sealer....you'll likely never get them back out if you need to, or possibly round off the hex trying to get them that tight or get them back out. Worse chance of them corroding in also with no sealer or tape.
Sealng the threads is a better way to go.
Nice and easy. Perfect.

So I'm ready to install one of my heads. Is it necessary for me to check my piston to valves clearance?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
472 Posts
Yep, at least one cylinder worth of valvetrain all set up with checker springs is the easiest....you can do it with the actual valvesprings but you'll need to bottom out the hydro lifter plungers so there is no give, or substitute a solid lifter.
Clay in the valve releifs on the pistons, with a little oil on the face of the clay the valve will contact so it doesn't stick..
Carefully roll the engine through 2 full revolutions

Or you can check it with light springs and dial indicator on the spring retainer wtht the valvetrain adjusted, stop every 5° for 20° span before and after TDC,
At every stop, push down on valve until it contacts the piston, read the difference between that point and where the rocker held it open at to get actual measured clearance. "Stop and Drop" method.
Find the closest point, then check 3° either side of that point to finalize it.
 
301 - 320 of 389 Posts
Top