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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I installed the new CPP upper control arms over the weekend, and to my surprise, there was a slight improvement in ride and handling. The stock arms are pretty stout for stamped pieces, but the CPP tubular arms are even more beefy. They also provide a universal spring perch mount so the mustang style perches or coil-overs can be mounted with ease. The arms are 3/16” shorter than stock to offset the wheel slightly more inside the fender well. This was done because the wheel mounting surface is pushed slightly outwards with most disc brake swaps. If you don’t want the offset, the arms can be easily shimmed to your desire, but you will need longer mounting bolts as the hardware provided is barely long enough as it is. The new upper arms also have an bump stop “shell” over the balljoint so force is applied to the arm rather than the balljoint itself. The new arms also utilize a locking aluminum bushing retainer held in place by an allen head bolt so the old problem with the stock arm bushing retaining nuts loosening is eliminated. CPP recommends not to loosen or tighten the allen head retaining bolt as it is torqued and loctited during assembly. Here is a pic of the new upper arms:



Removing the old upper control arms is fairly simple, but can be a little time consuming. This entire project took me nearly 5 hours from disassembly to final alignment. Here’s how it started:

Here is the corner module with the stock arms. The first step is to remove the spring cover plate/bumpstop assembly. This is a bit of a PIA by yourself because you have to reach inside the engine bay and inside the fenderwell at the same time to remove the retaining bolts.



Next you want to attach a spring compressor and compress the coil spring so it is loose between the lower perch and upper retainer.



When your spring is compressed you can remove the shock tower and shock. Next you should disconnect your sway bar- I tried to get away with not disconnected it and there was not enough play to remove my ball joint. After removing the sway bar link remove the upper ball joint. I recommend you use a ball joint puller rather than a pickle fork, but its up to you. I have a small ball joint/ tie rod puller from Matco that works good.



Next you want to remove the coil spring. Now the stock arm is ready for removal. The retaining nuts for the arm cross shaft are in the engine bay toward the bottom of the shock tower. These are lock nuts and when removing them a gear wrench is your friend! Here are the old arms:



After you remove the arm remove the spring perch and install it on the new CPP arm. I used washers on the bottom side for piece of mind because the universal mounting design is slotted. Now the CPP arm is ready to install. I put the bolts on the engine bay side and the nuts on the cross shaft side except for the passenger side rear-most nut. The clearance between the hole and my header was WAY too tight to get a bolt in, so I used the nut on that side. FYI: I run Hedman Headers.



Here is the new arm bolted in. On the left side I slightly shimmed the front mount on the cross shaft to gain some slight “pre-caster” because I needed to center my LF wheel back in the wheel well.



Next install the ball joint in the spindle. My ball joints came with a locking nut rather than a castle nut- Im not sure if they will be that way in production. As with the lower ball joints from the mini-subframe kit, they are a tight fit and will not seat in the spindle quite as deep as the NAPA ball joints.

HINT: since the new arms are 3/16” shorter, it was easier for me to install the ball joint after I loosened the lower A-arm eccentrics and adjusted it inward (effectively gaining positive camber). The car has to be re-aligned anyway so moving the eccentrics is not an issue.

Next install the coil spring. Make sure the upper retaining plate is seated properly- it’s a bit of a PIA. Then put the shock and shock tower back in. Then decompress the coil spring.



After that, re-install the spring cover/ bumpstop assembly.



Here are a few more shots of the arms installed:







Alignment was a snap as before. I kept my specs the same as when I aligned it for the mini- subframe kit. I will probably play around with different specs at a later time, but for now I wanted to keep things consistent.

I took a nice drive after the install. There was some slightly noticeable overall driving improvement over the lower arms alone. The upper arms increased the solid feel up front. The car is very predictable at low and high speeds as before (I went about 90 on the freeway). Road feel is good, without any increase in harshness. Cornering is solid and flat (keep in mind I have a hellwig sway bar) more like you would expect for more of a new sporty car than an old muscle car. My skinny tires are the only thing holding me back from pushing it a little more. My steering inputs created very predictable vehicle outputs, but the new suspension setup makes steering feel a little out of place with the original box and linkage. I think a rack and pinion would compliment the new setup nicely, but a lower ratio steering box and GW linkage setup may do the trick. Bump steer was also slightly improved, which may be a result of moving the lower A-arm pivot points toward the center of the car because of the shorter upper A-arms. It is hard to tell exactly what you are feeling though with a high ratio steering box and original steering linkage.

Overall, the new CPP upper A-arms are a nice compliment to the mini subframe kit. I think the mini subframe kit is 90% of what most people need for their front end improvements. The upper arms are just a nice addition, and they look cool! Also, the versatility of the upper arms is nice, as well as the shorter design to tuck in your front wheels a bit more.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JohnnyRotten said:
Bryan, may i be permitted to copy/paste all this in yer album ???


PS, Dale has something for you... and yer welcome ;)
Yes you may... and THANKS Johnny!
 

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Any news on when the upper arms will be available?If they are set up for coilovers does CPP have something in the works?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nova 404 said:
Any news on when the upper arms will be available?If they are set up for coilovers does CPP have something in the works?
I believe the arms will be out in the next month or two. As far as I know they DO have a coilover kit in the works- Im keeping my eyes and ears open!
 

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Bryan,
Nice work once again in the write-up as with the mini subframe-kit install.

I got an advertisement for the new upper control arm kit from CPP last week. They have an introductory offer of $269 (limited time offer). The regular price is $309. Hop on this quickly if interested and you want to save a few bucks.

Not sure if I'm going to go for it or not.

Classic Performance Products
(714) 522-2000
175 E. Freedom Avenue
Anaheim, CA 92801
www.classicperfom.com
 

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NOGO said:
Yes you may... and THANKS Johnny!

yer welcome again Bryan and the album's done... if you'd like ta view, check yer siggy link, i added it into the same album. i took the wording directly from the thread here and posted it there.

i think the info yer providing is gonna help lotsa guys, that and that yer a Friend are the reasons it's in the album... Kudo's to ya Bryan, once again an excellent write up and thanks for allowing me ta help...

be Good !!! :D
 

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Tell me more about the price of the upper arms,I searched the site and don't see anything about them.Where did you see the promo price?
 

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I recently purchased the mini sub-frame kit (end of May). They sent me the advertizement with the promo price last week.
 

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What Disc brake Kit to pick with CPP Tubular?

What if I wanted to add a CPP dropped spindle/disc kit to this?

Will the Tubular uppers compensate for the offset?


Can I get more than a 205/65/15 upfront with this combo?

James
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Fredsgarage.tv said:
What if I wanted to add a CPP dropped spindle/disc kit to this?

Will the Tubular uppers compensate for the offset?


Can I get more than a 205/65/15 upfront with this combo?

James
It wont compensate for the entire offset change, but I think it makes up for a lot of it. Im not sure but it may be possible to fit a 215 with the correct rim offset.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Nogo,

It appears in the pic that you installed the nut on the inside of the wheel well in lieu of inside the engine compartment like stock. Is there an advantage either way?

Should i use lock washers on the bolts (there is none in the kit)?
I reversed one of the bolts because of header tube clearance, but it doesn't matter how you mount it.

The kit should have come with squeeze nuts so there will be no need for lock washers.
 
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