Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 35 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Perf. Online Not CPP Tubular U.C.A.

Yes, these are not from CPP but from Performance Online, which I think someone said was almost across the street. So, PO doesn't seem to have their tubular lower control arm kit link working anymore. -Were they beat out buy CPP? Their kits were almost identical. Does this mean PO wins the upper control arm battle now? -First out and with a modified geometry.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
269 Posts
hi paul, thanks for the link. just a thought here , do you think the upper arms should be made adjustable too? most cars have both adjustable .it might help with the alinement too? the arms look pretty good but without the adjustability ,not much different from stock:confused: what do you think?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Hey novafied,

I don't think they need to be adjustable. This new control arm should add enough positive caster to allow a good alignment with today's radial tires without hitting the fender lip. There is enough adjustment in the rest of the system. There is/was a "conversion-kit" that locks-out the lower control arm (yeah, same as a regular lockout kit but with one hole) and allows the upper control arm to be adjusted with shims. I think this new Tubular U.C.A. looks good but I'm waiting to hear about the details and what alignment specs they recommend. It does add up fast when I look at the arms, new pivot shafts, bushings, spring seats...

Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I guess my post was lost from the move. Arms look and sound great. Will be powder coated black, accept stock parts, 2° more caster and more parts in the works. About time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
Redesigned P.O.L control arms

I have not seen any current personal experiences on these upper control arms
( last posts were in 2007). Anyone use these yet on their 1st gen? wondering how these will work with CBR lower arms, which I have already. These pol arms also claim to be some what adjustable to improve caster and help place the wheel more rear in the wheel well.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
1963 Chevrolet II Nova SS
Joined
·
616 Posts
I have not seen any current personal experiences on these upper control arms
( last posts were in 2007). Anyone use these yet on their 1st gen? wondering how these will work with CBR lower arms, which I have already. These pol arms also claim to be some what adjustable to improve caster and help place the wheel more rear in the wheel well.
I can't speak to this particular part but I am apprehensive of purchasing any parts from POL after a bad experience last year with both them and a few of their products. I purchased a big brake and drop spindle conversion($2500) for my buddies car and besides shipping the kit later than promised by two weeks(they moved and their machine shop wasn't up and running) which they could have informed us of. The kit arrived incomplete and took almost 4-5 months to get the remainder of parts after threat of litigation. I still had to purchase misc. parts locally that were supposed to be included.

As far as the part quality, here is one of a couple examples, as I was test fitting the steering arms to the spindle tightening using a stubby 3/8 ratchet the threads all pulled out of the spindles. If they strip a bit more than hand tight, there was no way I could torque to spec. I ended up drilling the holes and using grade 8 nuts as a backer since there was clearance. Part quality was fair but the adage of "you get what you pay for" couldn't of run truer. I had to machine a few of their parts to fit properly as well.

So me personally, I wouldn't ever make another purchase from them. I am sure I am in the minority of people that had problems but when things went wrong with them, they went horribly wrong.

I would stick with CBR based purely on the professionalism and support that they show on this site!
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,062 Posts
FYI.....the factory upper has the ball joint covered for a reason....one, bump stop and two it acts as a safety feature for when the upper joint breaks through the ball joint housing. The cover keeps the assembly somewhat assembled. Failure of the upper joint causes the stud to push up and out of the top of the housing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I just bought my first 1971 nova and ordered disc conversion and looking to buy new suspension with stock height but with a sport feel, just found the kit from POL and would like to know if anyone can give any feedback
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,016 Posts
I would not buy them or the cpp upper arms. I'd rather put new bushings or a del a lum kit than buy those arms. Nothing against those arms. I'm sure there nice but the reason for me is they don't do anything more than the stock arms.

Looks like it doesn't come with the perch either. That's another 188. I maybe wrong, ,but that's what I see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,263 Posts
Agreed, if your not going to buy a UCA that makes a difference (cpp and pol do not) just rebuild what you have and finish it nice. That will save you a good amount of cash that you can put somewhere else.

I did a lot of research on both the upper and lower for my '64 and went with the CBR UCA & LCA but I needed to change the handling as my car was all over the race track so the investment was smart money. I also went with the CBR coil overs a few months later also to improve the traction on the hit at the track. Again an excellent investment.

Here is the thing, on the street my car handles friggin awesome now! Didn't really think that would matter to me since I really didn't think the stock setup was horrible for a 52 year old car but the difference is stupid fun.

I'd also recommend starting at the LCA first, biggest bang for your buck.



Sent while texting and drag racing
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,062 Posts
I would not buy them or the cpp upper arms. I'd rather put new bushings or a del a lum kit than buy those arms. Nothing against those arms. I'm sure there nice but the reason for me is they don't do anything more than the stock arms.

Looks like it doesn't come with the perch either. That's another 188. I maybe wrong, ,but that's what I see.
Agreed, if your not going to buy a UCA that makes a difference (cpp and pol do not) just rebuild what you have and finish it nice. That will save you a good amount of cash that you can put somewhere else.

I did a lot of research on both the upper and lower for my '64 and went with the CBR UCA & LCA but I needed to change the handling as my car was all over the race track so the investment was smart money. I also went with the CBR coil overs a few months later also to improve the traction on the hit at the track. Again an excellent investment.

Here is the thing, on the street my car handles friggin awesome now! Didn't really think that would matter to me since I really didn't think the stock setup was horrible for a 52 year old car but the difference is stupid fun.

I'd also recommend starting at the LCA first, biggest bang for your buck.



Sent while texting and drag racing
Great advice by both parties...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
I've had the cbr lowers for about a year now and was an improvement. My only disappointment, due to my lack of knowledge at the time, is finding out you really NEED the cbr uppers to compliment the lowers. 3 major issues that you are stuck with ( if lowers only are used): front fender/tire clearance, alignement challenges due to crappy stock geometry relationship with the cbr lowers and inability to run anything larger than a bug tire with out rubbing. yes I could just rebuild the uppers, but still stuck with the above issues. The arms should be marketed with these "potential" issues or maby Evan sold as a set/kit. Oh I didn't Evan mention you also "should" buy the sway bar as well. Otherwise you need a special kit to force your stock one to work. I really only wanted to improve my ride" some". However my initial $600 LCA investment will have to some day turn into a $2000-4000 investment to do it correctly with uppers, sway bar, coilovers.... Of course you fellas who r sporting full CBR set ups will vouch for it and may Evan be friends/sponsored to boot with CBR. At this point I'm wondering if going to a full new subframe is a batter way to go. Cuz then it will handle and be able to put any power plant in you desire. Also from what I've seen at the track most have new subframes. That is y I'd really like to see if anyone has tried the POL arms because I'm deff not ready to spend that kind of cash. I just don't want to be the test dummy, lol.
The CBR stuff is great and I know the product is loved by this site not denying that, just wish I knew what I was getting into from the beginning....
 

·
Vendor
Joined
·
4,062 Posts
Chevyfan, the claims you are making that our lower arms have alignment issues and that you need small tires and wheels are a bit off the mark. One we can not fix the camber issues with the lower arms, all of this is done with the upper control arm...regardless of bolt on arms or a bolt in clip the upper arm location is the key factor.

Ease of alignment adjustments is certainly what you get with our arms along with a solid and sturdy mounting that will not allow your alignment to slip out of spec.


Any and all tire rub issues that you may have will not be solved by the install of our tubular lower arms or any other manufactures arms. These issues are caused by improper brake kits that push the wheels out, incorrect back spacing on your wheels and also an improper alignment.

Rather than go back and forth about an elementary issue I will be straight and to the point......there are no "paid" promoters here on the site. What I have are loyal customers and a few who have proven themselves to be knowledgeable enough to be able to answer questions on my behalf. I take your accusations personally and do not appreciate the negative attitude toward anyone who may have a positive comment about our parts!

This is what I will do....take your Church boys racing arms off of your car and return them to me, I will be more than happy to list them for sale here on the site and return the earnings to you.....as per my disclaimer " anyone not happy with your Church boys racing product should discontinue using them. So rather than have someone giving out improper information I would prefer you use another company's product.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,016 Posts
I'll take the lower control arms.:yes:

There's also a good reason why there is not one person on this site that has tried the pol uppers. I won't say it, but if you believe it's worth the money try it out out and let us know the feedback.

I am not a paid promoter. This is about nphnp.

Just a thought because I know you mentioned tire clearance, the pol uppers do not help with tire clerance and do not move the tire back like cbr's, they claim only improved caster, and your also talking about buying a new front clip but your also talking about being on a budget.

I have the lowers already and a sway bar and the car handles great.

If I were you I'd rebuild the upper control arms and get a sway bar. The sway bar is a vital piece to good handling on our cars.

I run 205 60's, 15x6 wheel on the front.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,263 Posts
I'm not getting paid for my comments, happy to get paid for sure though.

Hot rodding is always about optimizing the compromise, for example I went with SCAT versus CROWER for my bottom end. To me it made the most sense.

You want to save some cash and feel good about your investment, that's cool. Hope someone here has something good to say about POS. I have no direct experience only stuff I read.


Sent while texting and drag racing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
80 Posts
You guys make nice pieces and I respect your co! However the things I am dealing with are not made up. I am however still learning and by no account an expert. What I absolutely do know is: I have about 1/4" between the front lip on my fender and the tire, and the alignment shop could not set it up to the desired spec due to the fender clearance. So now Im in need of front tires current set Nanking 145r15s on Jegs 15x4 with 1.5 backspace. Can't budge from the 24" diameter and finding a good tire with respectable max load rating at that diameter is tough......I don't recall any clearance issues with the stock arms and a 24" tire.

But I i may have learned a couple things from you on the last post, church:
I do have an unk brand/type front disc brake installed from the last owner which may be an issue. Second, my alignment shop might be a no good. Third, I'm a dummy and am too quick to point fingers. I'm frustrated because I see a long trail of improvements now that will need to do be made to get this thing "right". I guess that's Hotrodding! So now I'm not sure what to do next. Change the disc brake set up? Or drop another $700 on uppers? I just think it's crazy guys are quick to talk poorly about a different brand without any true account/proof of their performance.
 
1 - 20 of 35 Posts
Top