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'75 Nova LN 2-Door 350 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yeah, vintage car enthusiasts don’t have that much fun over here, compared to what I see and hear from you guys in the US.
They pay pretty close attention here, unless you have a good connection to your local Tuv-Guy, but he also won’t put his job in danger for letting you drive a sh*tbox or something that will fall back on him, if you ever get in trouble with the police. So only because you have a good connection, doesnt mean you can do whatever you want.
If you go to a "normal“ Tuv station, they probably would freak out for you having a fully digital tach installed in your 70‘s car…
Also engine swaps are difficult, only swaps in between years of the model built or same Cui (Liters), I believe, get the classic car plate.
So LS swapping things, costs alot of money not only for parts, but you also have to run an emission test at Tuv so they can check the pollution, which is different to the org. Engine of course.
This test costs you a few thousand Euros,I heard of someone who needed to pay 10k for it.
I also know someone in the community which built a restomod Nomad with a Ls 3 swap, I believe he works for the US military in Wiesbaden and got the car registered through them.
His Youtube Channel is called: Roger‘s Hot Rod Garage
Disclaimer: His garage and everything is very US in my view, please don’t think every garage or house looks like this in Germany. 🙃

You definitely want to get the classic car plate here for cars which don’t have a catalytic converter and big engine sizes. Because the tax you pay is calculated through the Liters (Cui) of the engine and if you don‘t have a "cat“ they multiply engine size with a higher number, which leads to you paying more taxes.
These taxes can get pretty expensive, talking about lower hundreds per month, so up to lower thousands per year, gas not included!
A friend of the family owns a first gen Dodge Viper and pays 100 Euro‘ish per month in taxes. He decided to register it only for 3 months a year, which is possible through a "season plate".But he still pays 300 Euros only to legally drive his car on the street for 3 months. -.-
For older Cars with big engines you pay even more…

Sadly I don’t know which 5-Speed is installed.
All I know is that the conversion was already made in Canada and I got a piece of paper from a mechanic that tells the owner not to use a short shifter, guess what they installed…😂
Are there any tell-tales on the bell, when it’s installed, to identify the model?

Man, I really can’t cut it any shorter…

Thanks for your appreciation :)

-Young Nova 75
 

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Yeah, vintage car enthusiasts don’t have that much fun over here, compared to what I see and hear from you guys in the US.
They pay pretty close attention here, unless you have a good connection to your local Tuv-Guy, but he also won’t put his job in danger for letting you drive a sh*tbox or something that will fall back on him, if you ever get in trouble with the police. So only because you have a good connection, doesnt mean you can do whatever you want.
If you go to a "normal“ Tuv station, they probably would freak out for you having a fully digital tach installed in your 70‘s car…
Also engine swaps are difficult, only swaps in between years of the model built or same Cui (Liters), I believe, get the classic car plate.
So LS swapping things, costs alot of money not only for parts, but you also have to run an emission test at Tuv so they can check the pollution, which is different to the org. Engine of course.
This test costs you a few thousand Euros,I heard of someone who needed to pay 10k for it.
I also know someone in the community which built a restomod Nomad with a Ls 3 swap, I believe he works for the US military in Wiesbaden and got the car registered through them.
His Youtube Channel is called: Roger‘s Hot Rod Garage
Disclaimer: His garage and everything is very US in my view, please don’t think every garage or house looks like this in Germany. 🙃

You definitely want to get the classic car plate here for cars which don’t have a catalytic converter and big engine sizes. Because the tax you pay is calculated through the Liters (Cui) of the engine and if you don‘t have a "cat“ they multiply engine size with a higher number, which leads to you paying more taxes.
These taxes can get pretty expensive, talking about lower hundreds per month, so up to lower thousands per year, gas not included!
A friend of the family owns a first gen Dodge Viper and pays 100 Euro‘ish per month in taxes. He decided to register it only for 3 months a year, which is possible through a "season plate".But he still pays 300 Euros only to legally drive his car on the street for 3 months. -.-
For older Cars with big engines you pay even more…

Sadly I don’t know which 5-Speed is installed.
All I know is that the conversion was already made in Canada and I got a piece of paper from a mechanic that tells the owner not to use a short shifter, guess what they installed…😂
Are there any tell-tales on the bell, when it’s installed, to identify the model?

Man, I really can’t cut it any shorter…

Thanks for your appreciation :)

-Young Nova 75
I hope this nonsense is not what's coming here. It sounds more like a carbon tax/penalty than a legitimate process. I mean, come on, how many 50 year old American gas guzzlers are there in Germany and yet they are essentially penalizing the owners. Ridiculous. Thank you for your post. I never knew it was this bad in Germany.
 

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Hello Guys long time no see!

I just looked back here and I was shocked, that I started this thread 9 Months ago ... Warning: Picture heavy post! ;)

I was working on my project more or less frequently, University started and I got my first "side-job".

Nonetheless I wanted to share my progress and some details from the inside, which you guys haven´t seen yet.

Here are some old photos of the car, from the day where my Dad bought it. I found them a few months ago.
View attachment 445608

View attachment 445609


A small picture from the inside (before tearing everything apart to start the war against the good ol rust) , tiltable steering column is a big plus for me. Custom Tach, that looks quite ugly (not my taste at least xd). Later on I have to think about what I want to do with the middle console, probably deleting it, the "extra gauges" too. Because I was thinking about installing a Dakota Digital Tach, if someone has experience with them please share! I hope the conversion gets allowed by German Tuv, because there is a regulation that states: "Only cars with upgrades that were possible during the era of the car (which means +- 10 years of production) are allowed to get a historical vehicle license plate."
So I need to find out when Dakota Digital started producing their stuff, I believe it was something around 1986, again if someone has knowledge about that please share!
View attachment 445601



What a beautiful custom tach, isn´t it? 🙃
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View attachment 445603


So that was some work and took some time to figure out which tools work best , but I got it done. Sadly a "few" holes showed up, the big marked part on the upper left is already out and I got myself new fuel tank braces, to repair the stuff thats going on underneath.
View attachment 445606



Sooo this is the current state, made some room to work at the floor panels. Me and my Dad worked on it a few evenings to remove the undercoating as good as we can (still not 100% done), so my Dad can start welding the trunk panel.
View attachment 445607


As you can see there is still a lot of work to do. Just a short list for you: -welding floorpanels, -"de-rust" floor panels+ everything that has to do with it and cover it with rust converter and undercoating,
after that: - change the front frame, this installed one is bent, because the previous owner crashed it (restore the spare one + mount the engine), then work on the inside etc. Small detailed steps I know, but you can probably see, it doesn´t stop there. I can just thank my Dad that he is supporting me and made me able to work on such a nice car. I know this project isn´t nearly finished, but I also don´t pressure myself to get it done quick.

I really like to think about what I still want to do with this car. As I mentioned in my original post I want to build it more pro-street like and that idea solidfied in my mind. Thinking about a roll-cage and stripping the interior, not sure if I want to do only 1 or 2 seats. My Dad supports this too, which is nice. :)

So that was my at least a foot long message, to update you guys. Really looking forward to your thoughts and comments. Again if somebody has experience with Dakota Digital, let me know!

Greetings from Germany,

Young Nova 75
Very nice. Somewhat rare rear defrost option. Tilt steering column, nice. Consider using a Chevy/Nova Rally steering wheel, they look nice (and original to SS). Rare console gauges...nice!
For manual transmission you might need this console (unless the one you have clears all the gear shifting).

Nice Nova...amazing that you have access to parts in Germany. I love the roller hoop-type set up you have...please post more pictures of how it is attached to the side of the car (if you can). I am more familiar with the rotisserie set up, but what I see you using looks more practical for working on the undercarriage...Nice!
 

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'75 Nova LN 2-Door 350 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
I didn’t see you mention what 5 speed was in there. Did I miss that?
I searched around on my transmission and found some numbers: 13-52-065-914 . I googled around, so it´s a manual 5-speed borg warner, which was originally built for Camaros/ Firebirds from 88-92, mine says 89 on it.
Any opinion or experience about this trans?

Nice Nova...amazing that you have access to parts in Germany. I love the roller hoop-type set up you have...please post more pictures of how it is attached to the side of the car (if you can).
I got the fuel tank braces shipped from the US. But got lucky with the rest. My Dad collected many of the sheet metal parts, like fenders, hood, bumpers etc. over time, so I got 2 sets each now. Nothing perfect but worst case is making 2 parts into 1. I even saw some of the bumper fillers were still in tact on the fenders, I guess they would be a pain in the... to find and get them shipped here. Thanks, for the link to the 4-speed console, I guess mine is a floor automatic one, need to check how much space it has, if the car is back on it´s wheels.
I believe you guys don´t know or underestimate how many old american cars, not only muscle, also cadillacs etc. are over here in Germany. ;)
Sadly, prices exploded here too since 2 years or so. Almost no US 2 Door available under 10k anymore, no matter the condition...

I will take some pictures of the "tilt"-setup, consist of only 4 pieces, 2 of them are connected to the wheel studs, the rest is connected to each other. 1 Part is a "spindle-tower", which tilts the whole thing, by using a power drill. These gadgets were made and sold in Germany in the 80´s/90´s until the owner of the company started ripping off the customers...
I believe, from what my father told me.

Kind regards, Young Nova 75
 
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1971 Chevrolet Nova 350/350
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Quote:
“I searched around on my transmission and found some numbers: 13-52-065-914 . I googled around, so it´s a manual 5-speed borg warner, which was originally built for Camaros/ Firebirds from 88-92, mine says 89 on it.
Any opinion or experience about this trans?”

Sounds like a Borg Warner T5 World Class. I believe that version is rated for 300 lb ft of torque stock. Not a bad transmission for what it was originally used for, although in the Camaro and Firebirds it was only used with the lower powered 305s, never the 350. A lot of people say they’re terrible, some people say if you treat them ok they’ll hold up in a mild performance street application. I would say just drive it with a little caution and if it breaks, toss it and put a TKX in. They can be built stronger, but that would not be the best way to spend your transmission money, as it still wouldn’t compare to a Tremec TKX in any way.
 

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'75 Nova LN 2-Door 350 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Warning: Picture heavy post!

Nice Nova...amazing that you have access to parts in Germany. I love the roller hoop-type set up you have...please post more pictures of how it is attached to the side of the car (if you can). I am more familiar with the rotisserie set up, but what I see you using looks more practical for working on the undercarriage...Nice!
Finally, I got back into the garage. Had exams at Uni, so I wasn`t in the garage for almost two weeks.
Here are some pics of the "Liqui Technik Kipp-Wagenheber" :D

Motor vehicle Font Gas Electric blue Rectangle


This is the head of the "Spindle-Tower", the "bolt" on the left is where you connect your hand-drill to tilt the whole thing over a spindle.
Gas Wood Metal Engineering Auto part
Automotive tire Stairs Wood Gas Tints and shades


This is the "Spindle-Tower". Which is connected to front bow (at the bottom), that is connected to the wheel bolts of the (now) bottom wheel, through a adapter plate. Connected to the top wheel too of course.
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Auto part Wheel Automotive wheel system
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread

Automotive tire Hood Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Bumper


That´s the view from the other side, still the front bow at the bottom. It´s connected to a rod, which connects the front and rear bow. Both connected to the wheels at the bottom. The whole car gets tilted over the bows.
Automotive tire Hood Rim Gas Motor vehicle
Automotive tire Mode of transport Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Asphalt


The bow in the back. Tilting also works without the cartonage between chassis and bow, still enough room, nothing gets damaged. Even though we were a little bit afraid at first. :D
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


Here you can see how the bows are attached to the wheels with the adapter/connector plate.
Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Synthetic rubber


I think it´s pretty amazing, that this whole construction only consists out of 4 main pieces : "Spindle tower", 2 bows and the connecting rod. (You have to exclude the connector plates of course)

Greetings from Germany!

-Young Nova 75
 
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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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Hi Lukas , so, lets talk about your - - post # 26 ; picture # 4 .

Showing your (rear part) of u'r engine & trans ; you can see your "bellhousing" and, there you can see (almost) , some numbers - stamped on u'r b/h . You could clean those numbers
off , and write those down. GM - did stamp alot of Chevy B/H's ; and that may help you know which one is used in your 75 Nova. Back then , there were 'two types of alum. b/h used.
But several types of each different b/h .
The basic 2 styles : 1 each - for the 'smaller type flywheel = the 153 TOOTH Flywheel (and matching starters) . And, 1 each for the ' 168 TOOTH larger Flywheel' , (and matching starter).

# 1. note : there were several types for each Flywheel types ( both (older) cast iron & aluminum bellhousings). = But, we're talking those "ALUMINUM B/H's " .

After you write those b/h numbers down - you can search here : - (good Chevy B/H info) .



# 2. note: Now for Post # 26 ; picture # 5 .

Showing your "transmission" - - which looks too be a "Borg - Warner T 5" transmission.
For starters - your trans IS older than 1993 (transmission "cast in 1992 and used in the year 1993" ) . IN '93 , Borg-Warner T 5 tranny's changed the transmission mounting EARS
to the FORD mounting style, for ALL T-5 tranny's . That means - for using a later (93 & newer T 5 ) ; you had too use an adapter plate - too mount the T-5 transmissions to bolt up
to the GM (Chevy) B/H's .
You can look on your tranny - for the 'bolts that hold on the Tailhousing , to the Main Case' ; close to the 'speedometer drive' = there should be a "Metal Tag" , connected there , and that
metal TAG , has stamped numbers that tell you what your transmission "Gear Ratio" is (inside your T-5 ).

So, in post # 24 - - you posted a number from u'r trans (1352 - 065 - 914) . That is most likely a "casting number" - - and , there are several of those type numbers , all over those
T-5 style trannies . The same numbers located on the different areas : From what I know (which is very little) - ALL Borg-Warner T-5 's use the "1352" number , on all main parts.
Like = " 1352 - xxx - xxx" , on the Main Case ; on the Tail Housing ; on the Top Cover, and, some inside parts , start with 1352 .

A very good T 5 info site is : - - If you have the "Metal ID Tag" ; you can find , which T 5 trans gear ratio you have (on the site below) . This chart will also tell you , if u'r T 5 is
World Class type , (WC) . . . or non world class type , (NWC) .
. . example : my T 5 tag number is : 1352 - 222 .


Then , there is Jay's T 5 page . Jay , IS a member here on SNS - (screen name - " Lugnutz65Jay " ) .


He (Jay) shows you how to TELL Which T 5 , is which , and how to ID each different T 5 trans (between a W C & NWC) .
With a LOT of Very Good T 5 info .
ps = a very nice guy .

Well a very long post ; but back in your post # 24 , you did ask - - - lol .

Any opinion or experience about this trans?
Just more useful info about your 75 Nova , Have fun , Lukas .

jim
Northern Arizona ,
USA
 

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'75 Nova LN 2-Door 350 5-speed
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Hi Lukas , so, lets talk about
Thanks Jim, that´s a lot of information and a lot too look after on my trans. I´m gonna work through the stuff tomorrow, very interested which one it exactly is. I just wondered how you could see that mine has to be after ´93, I thought it was from ´89, because "89" is casted near the 1352-... casting number. I´ll find out tomorrow I guess.

Have a nice Day and thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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While you have your car 'on your Roll-over-jig' - look for your Bellhousing numbers : like here on my ' 403 ' b/h .

1. showing where the #'s are located : look on the b/h , at the mark = # 3858403 ( ' 403 ') .




Also showing my T 5 bolted to my stock B/H ,. with NO adapter plate.
My trans is from a 1993 S-15 truck ; 2.8 V-6 : with the "old mounting ears . Because if you look at the "casting numbers" = my trans was cast in 92 (look in the circle) . Then , installed into
a 1993 truck. (Having the 'Muncie & Saginaw' bolt pattern. It is also a W/C trans . Plus, still using the old S-15 shifter.

2. showing where the " Metal I D tag is bolted to the rear tail housing :


later , jim
 
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could see that mine has to be after ´93,
Well , in my post = I meant before 93 = because it bolted up to your bell housing ; without using an adapter plate.
And, maybe a NWC trans . - - ?

Plus, all info about our cars - - is "priceless" .

Enjoy th' reading .

jim
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hey Guys,

I searched for the metal tag, but couldn´t find it screwed anywhere on the trans. I guess the previous owner removed it, during the conversion.


look for your Bellhousing numbers : like here on my ' 403 ' b/h .

1. showing where the #'s are located : look on the b/h , at the mark = # 3858403 ( ' 403 ') .
Also looked on the b/h "only" thing with numbers that I could find was this:

Automotive tire Grey Road surface Water Font


Anyone recognizes from which car or trans this was originally from? Still the original one from a Nova? I guess it´s too far away, production date wise, to be originally from my ´75.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Hey Guys, I´m back with a picture heavy post!

We got some stuff done over the last weeks.

I also need your help on where to find some specific sheet metal parts. Which exactly are stated at the end of the post. Thank you in advance!

The inner wheel arch, didn´t look that good, so we decided to cut out the worst parts. Then we saw that the shock absorber mounting bracket, was... lets say... weakened....
Automotive tire Tread Motor vehicle Tire Bumper


The "weakened" mounting bracket...o_O
Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Art


This one looks better right? We "reverse engineered" the mounting bracket and only re-used the thick part on top.
Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Flooring Gas


That´s how it looked after being "re-installed". We also repaired the surrounding metal, as you can tell by the red primer. This area was a real pain in the a**...
There are 3 to 4 sheets layered over each other. This was the hardest part to repair so far.
Automotive tire Wood Hood Bumper Motor vehicle


Another repair needed to be done on the lower cowl panel, deleted some panels. So the stuff falling down from the top cowl panel, doesn´t get stuck and won´t cause any rust. We also repaired areas of the rocker panel, outside but also inside. I couldn´t believe how much rust, dirt and sand (?!) was stuck inside it... More than two shovels full of that stuff came outo_O
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Wood Automotive wheel system Paint


The Rocker panel was by far the easiest to repair. Primered parts got repaired. While we were repairing it from the outside, we also primered the inside and the sheets we used.
Motor vehicle Wood Bumper Automotive exterior Paint



Some smart guy welded thick metal plates on the framerail (felt like it was almost 4 lbs)... Probably added a trailer hitch back in the days? Either way it got to go, everything for weight reduction🤪
Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Gas Automotive wheel system


Of course, there also were rust holes under the plate and the overall metal got thin, so we replaced the thin parts.
Automotive tire Tire Bumper Wood Automotive exterior




Right now, we are working on the plate behind the rear bumper. As you can see, yet again almost everything thats primered involved replacing the sheet metal... and we are not finished yet of course!🙃
Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Hood Bumper Automotive exterior


I also need to replace the front floor board including the toe board on both sides and the front sub frame mount.

Does anyone know where I can get those?

I looked at AMD and googled around for a few hours and couldn´t find the right pieces for 4th gen Novas...

Any similarities regarding those parts between 4th gen novas and camaros/firebirds?

Would really appreciate your help!
 

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Hello Lukas - - making 'head-way' , that's good , I like that .

Then , about your build post & pictures : very good job - everything is looking good (both pictures & write-up's) . Just "feed -back , for you" .
It doesn't really mean , how long you may make u'r post - - - (everybody here = says, they like build pictures - - - good job) .
I think you may need too get a list going : meaning, that I do write down (also save info into my "Nova Favorite Folder" ) ; because later down th' road - - you may go back & find . . .
. . 404 - page not found . You may want too start saving things / info now. I have saved info , before , then have lost two different computers, and alot of pictures.
Also, back a few years ago - All that 'P/B crap' happened. I don't loose any pictures ( now ) ; because I use the "Digital camera" with those small 'smart cards' .
I also write alot of info down, using 'Notebooks' (and, alot from SNS info) . But, that's just me - - and I can go on 'over-load' , pretty quick .

About some info : like that T 5 5speed info page ; I had to keep reading that info again , for several months , (and still learning things) ; too understand & 'sink-in' that stuff.
I even did - Search SNS , alot : info about installing a T 5 into a 3rd gen Nova ; some guys did make an install build post , but some never said if the install worked, and hardly nobody
listed any part numbers (that either worked or that did - not - work) .There was info - - then, just - dropped - off, out of site. A great example was the "JEEP Input Shaft install" .
That took some 'looking' too find that Jeep part number . . . then, bingo , Summit had the 'shaft , and for only $ 35.00 (now I have seen the same 'input shaft going for $ 108.00 ,
and going up .

Keep building, and a great 'Father - Son build , you'll remember for along time . . I like looking - in . (y) .

jim
 
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