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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am restating an old project, which was a 6 cylinder '71 Nova that I picked up years ago.
What I'm working with:
72' SB 350
Engine casting number 3970010 - 4 bolt main
Heads casting number 3998991 - 1.72/1.5
Rebuilt turbo 350 transmission

I am looking to make a nice street rod out of it, something a bit choppy with some ba!!s.

A couple of problems, the engine was already taken apart and I do not know where the parts came from (although they did come from this engine). Like, what cylinder the connecting rods came from or the main caps location. The crank shaft is pretty rusty and has been laying on it side for some time (though well supported).

I guess my question is what would be a good setup?
Can I work with these heads after porting, valve job, new lifters and rockers? Should the head be shaved down? What would be a good cam for a street rod? Any other information would be great.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Can I work with these heads after porting, valve job, new lifters and rockers?
You could do that, but a brand new set of Vortec heads would be cheaper and make more power. If you use guideplates you can run any regular rocker arm-without guideplates you need ones specific to Vortecs. You will also need an intake to match the heads.
 

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you could

you could get a gm crate 350 for about 1500$ 290 hp stock and slap a jeggs or summit 488 lift cam in it and get 320 t0 350 hp out of it and have a motor thats never been in a car before or should i just say a fresh motor. cam lifters are 100$
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Not sure

Thanks for the input, not many people building motors anymore is there. Not to sure what I'm going to do yet. A crate motor does sound cheap but, I would think I could get more power from a good set of heads. There is also the possibility to get a new crank, pistons and connecting rods for a 383.
I figure since it is a 4 bolt why not put the power in it.
 

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Thanks for the input, not many people building motors anymore is there. Not to sure what I'm going to do yet. A crate motor does sound cheap but, I would think I could get more power from a good set of heads. There is also the possibility to get a new crank, pistons and connecting rods for a 383.
I figure since it is a 4 bolt why not put the power in it.
if you can assemble an engine you will have a much better HP-cost ratio then buying a crate engine.. as said before i would use better heads and with the right cam and compression you will make a lot more then 350hp..
 

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Thanks for the input, not many people building motors anymore is there. Not to sure what I'm going to do yet. A crate motor does sound cheap but, I would think I could get more power from a good set of heads. There is also the possibility to get a new crank, pistons and connecting rods for a 383.
I figure since it is a 4 bolt why not put the power in it.
That is what I did and built my 383. Plenty of power with AFR heads and Lunati Voodoo roller cam.
 

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I would build it, nice to have warranty but you can get more out of it if you build it.

go 383, get the Vortec heads and cam you should be able to make your HP gaol pretty easy.

Just my 2 cents

Mark
 

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I HATE KITS, I LIKE PUTTIN' MY OWN COMBQ TOGETHER, IF YOU'RE DOIN' A BUDGET BUILD, WHICH IS NOTHIN' WRONG WITH IT, BY ALL MEANS GO WITH THE KIT YOU HAD LINKED. BUT I'D DO THE VORTECS AS A BUDGET BUILDER AND GO FROM THERE. BUT ME BEIN' ME, I LIKE AFR AND DART HEADS, BRODIX IS ANOTHER GOOD CHOICE, :yes: I'D GET MY OWN CRANK, AND NOTHING WRONG WITH .30 OVER EITHER. :no:
A GOOD INTAKE AND THE RIGHT CARB AND YOU'RE GOOD!
 

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Any idea's on a 383 kit?

I found this one anyone have an opinion? Really didn't want to bore it .030 over wanted to hone or just .010 over.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SBC-CHEVY-3...s=63&clkid=7796479382444348982#ht_7670wt_1013

Looking for something less than $900 - For street not the track.
I bought a kit like that from them. I didn't trust their balancing and began to not be too sure about their Procomp Electronics piston rods either(or at least the rod bolts). I ended up buying the Scat Procomp I beam rods rated to 750 Hp with 7/16" rod bolts. The Scat 9000 crank is in their kit along with Probe forged flat top pistons and this is what I have in mine as well. Then I had my stuff rebalanced. Mine is street-strip and no more than it will be at the strip I felt comfortable using the cast crank. I have gone all forged on my last two builds, but seems like a waste (to me anyways) for a car that is mostly street driven.

They can put you any kit together I believe. A kit is the way to go for the bottom end and is cheaper buying it as a rotating assembly. Ask them if they will substitute his rods for the Scat Procomp I beams with the 7/16" ARP 8740 cap screws(rods cost about $300). Also I would see about a discounted price for not balancing if you can take it to a good shop close to you and have it balanced yourself.
 

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http://www.northernautoparts.com/ has some great prices on scat parts and kits.. dont be afraid to ask for a better deal or for them to beat someone elses price.. good folks to deal with:yes::yes:
 

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The main caps weren't marked for location???? You're going to need a magnifying glass and some time to look at/compare the main bore honing marks and match up the main caps to determine what location they need to be in. sell off the heads. get the block bored .030 and order up your rotating assembly. Competition Products offers some good 383 kits.
 

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The main caps weren't marked for location???? You're going to need a magnifying glass and some time to look at/compare the main bore honing marks and match up the main caps to determine what location they need to be in.
I had to do this on a 327 about 25 years back. The guy mixed up all the rod caps so I had to give a close look to each rod and find the right other half. I didn't have to use a magnifying glass though, but that is a good idea. I told him if he ever did that again he would have to resize all the rods. That little 327 worked out really well.
 
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