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Hey not sure what parts you’ve gotten by now, but I swapped my 2 door 74 to a 350 with a th 400. It was just a roller with hardly anything left over so I’ve had to do pretty much everything you’ve mentioned here. Granted mine was done with a little more “make it work” mentality so not everything is perfect but i have most of my receipts so if you still have parts you are looking for PM me and I may be able to make some recommendations. Like I said some of my car is fabricated/“close enough” due to having a students budget though so not everything on my car is the right thing to buy or make. But I may be able to help with the major parts
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Hey not sure what parts you’ve gotten by now, but I swapped my 2 door 74 to a 350 with a th 400. It was just a roller with hardly anything left over so I’ve had to do pretty much everything you’ve mentioned here. Granted mine was done with a little more “make it work” mentality so not everything is perfect but i have most of my receipts so if you still have parts you are looking for PM me and I may be able to make some recommendations. Like I said some of my car is fabricated/“close enough” due to having a students budget though so not everything on my car is the right thing to buy or make. But I may be able to help with the major parts


PM sent!


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Discussion Starter #23
Bumping this up so I’ll get back started on this thing. Never ordered the motor mounts or anything. Car is legit just sitting like this waiting for some love....



Going to order mounts for the frame and see if the ones on the block will work, if not I’ll order new one. Does anyone know what bolts the mounts take to bolt to frame? 5/16th grade 8?

Still need to figure out my fuel pump mounting and all of that as well as my fans and what not I mentioned a few posts up. Getting this thing finally in the car will jumpstart some motivation though.
 

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Mount pads to frame bolts are 3/8" x 7/8"to 1" long.

The metal cup half of the motor mount set-up you have to change, the truck cups are taller from the block mounting face to the thru hole, so the bolt holes won't match the pads on the frame...you'll get one side in and the other side will be 1" or so too far outboard and 3/4" high. Got to be car metal engine cups.

On the trans tail issue, you can just remove the bolt on yoke and substitute a slip yoke, but the yoke must be the counterbored version that has the first 1-1/2" or so of the spline machined out, as the nose of the yoke has to fit over an o-ring in a groove on the output shaft that makes a fluid seal.

I would not use a slip joint driveshaft if you ever intend to add much power in the future, they can't handle it. You won't find any custom shaft company's recommending you use it in your application.. Conventional slip yoke and 1-piece tube shaft is the way to go..
TH-400 driveshaft is roughly 3/4"-1" shorter than a Th-350/Manual/Powerglide shaft.

The headers on the engine as pictured appear to be the truck headers...they won't fit the Nova. If you need to buy headers, there are some pretty good deals on stainless from Ebay, i've used a couple sets and they are nicely made with thick flanges and all TIG welding. cost is equal to or cheaper than plain mild steel USA made headers, but these are imported, probably from China but for sure from somewhere in that Asia part of the world. Being painfully honest, quality is better than the typical styreet hooker or Hedman, Flwtech, Patriot, etc
i know it doesn't list these as fitting a Nova, but the pipe routing is a copy of the Hooker 2451, which fits a lot of different Chevy;s - '64-72 Chevelle, '67-69 Camaro, '70-81 Camaro, '73-77 Chevelle/Malibu/Monte Carlo, '65-77 Impala, '68-79 Nova. along with the '73-87 Trucks
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Mount pads to frame bolts are 3/8" x 7/8"to 1" long.
Exactly the information I’ve been trying to find but been unable, Thanks a ton!

The metal cup half of the motor mount set-up you have to change, the truck cups are taller from the block mounting face to the thru hole, so the bolt holes won't match the pads on the frame...you'll get one side in and the other side will be 1" or so too far outboard and 3/4" high. Got to be car metal engine cups.
This was also something I had thought someone else had mentioned and information I had saved but then I was told the current mounts would work, however, I believe what you have just said and will be purchasing the cups that mount to the motor that are for the car version.

On the trans tail issue, you can just remove the bolt on yoke and substitute a slip yoke, but the yoke must be the counterbored version that has the first 1-1/2" or so of the spline machined out, as the nose of the yoke has to fit over an o-ring in a groove on the output shaft that makes a fluid seal.

I would not use a slip joint driveshaft if you ever intend to add much power in the future, they can't handle it. You won't find any custom shaft company's recommending you use it in your application.. Conventional slip yoke and 1-piece tube shaft is the way to go..
TH-400 driveshaft is roughly 3/4"-1" shorter than a Th-350/Manual/Powerglide shaft.
Gotcha! This is something I’m completely clueless on and will research more and see what is available locally. First to admit I don’t know much about this subject and why I was asking. I’ll take that advice about a conventional slip yoke and 1 piece tube shaft and look at going that route and do some digging and more reading that I can find!

The headers on the engine as pictured appear to be the truck headers...they won't fit the Nova. If you need to buy headers, there are some pretty good deals on stainless from Ebay, i've used a couple sets and they are nicely made with thick flanges and all TIG welding. cost is equal to or cheaper than plain mild steel USA made headers, but these are imported, probably from China but for sure from somewhere in that Asia part of the world. Being painfully honest, quality is better than the typical styreet hooker or Hedman, Flwtech, Patriot, etc
i know it doesn't list these as fitting a Nova, but the pipe routing is a copy of the Hooker 2451, which fits a lot of different Chevy;s - '64-72 Chevelle, '67-69 Camaro, '70-81 Camaro, '73-77 Chevelle/Malibu/Monte Carlo, '65-77 Impala, '68-79 Nova. along with the '73-87 Trucks
I wasn’t even thinking about that! Those def don’t look bad and are cheap enough. I saved them and will try and snag soon. Trying to make a decent little order of parts and start chugging along!

Thank you for taking the time to reply and help a fella out!


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Just for grins
1. Thats a carburetor, it requires 3-5 psi to run. The LS motors need 60 for the fuel injection, and they are non return type fuel regulators.
2. In tank fuel pumps run 45-65 psi, so the red u have is best.
3. I would remove the serpentine belt, brackets and accessories while you are installing uour engine. It will give u more room to work. Also,
If things don’t quite fit, your engine won’t be hanging in the air while you try taking that stuff off to get the engine in.
4. Fuel lines in the engine compartment, i would get Earl’s adapters, and put aircraft fittings and hoses on under the hood.
Looks good, and the fuel line is protected from chafing by stainless steel braid.
5. If you have the engine in a really good work area, i would change the rear main seal and timing cover seal
Before you put it in.
It will save you from having to pull the engine or trans back out in a year or two. Also change valve cover gaskets.
6. The rockers for the valves are 1.5 ratio.
You can get the feel of a bigger or more aggressive cam by changing to 1.6 rocker ratio, and they are just a simple bolt-on.
7. Your water pump is reverse rotation.
Any pulley on a serpentine belt setup that doesn’t have ribs, turns backwards.
8. Your radiator may not work with an engine driven clutch fan due to space limitations.
Measure carefully before you buy a radiator. I would actually put the engine in and the serpentine stuff on then measure for the radiator.
The truck’s engine bay might be longer than the area you have.
Ok i will stop now and let u have some fun
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Just for grins
1. Thats a carburetor, it requires 3-5 psi to run. The LS motors need 60 for the fuel injection, and they are non return type fuel regulators.
2. In tank fuel pumps run 45-65 psi, so the red u have is best.
What I had gathered, just need to decided where/how to mount it near my tank and which filters to put with it. Also on how to make it cut off if power is still on but something bad like a wreck happened so it wouldn’t just keep pumping fuel.

3. I would remove the serpentine belt, brackets and accessories while you are installing uour engine. It will give u more room to work. Also,
If things don’t quite fit, your engine won’t be hanging in the air while you try taking that stuff off to get the engine in.
I’ve considered this haven’t decided on if my uncle and I will try tossing it in or go this route.

4. Fuel lines in the engine compartment, i would get Earl’s adapters, and put aircraft fittings and hoses on under the hood.
Looks good, and the fuel line is protected from chafing by stainless steel braid.
Never heard of them but after looking it def doesn’t seem like a bad idea.

5. If you have the engine in a really good work area, i would change the rear main seal and timing cover seal
Before you put it in.
It will save you from having to pull the engine or trans back out in a year or two. Also change valve cover gaskets.
It’s in a 30x40 shop, plenty of room and space to do this. Originally was just going to toss it in as is because I was going to do this cheap and it be a temporary solution. Now it’s looking like it’ll be in for awhile while doing other stuff so might actually spend the little extra money and time and do both of these.

6. The rockers for the valves are 1.5 ratio.
You can get the feel of a bigger or more aggressive cam by changing to 1.6 rocker ratio, and they are just a simple bolt-on.
Truck already has a mild cam, not sure anything about it as person I bought the motor from bought it like that as well.

7. Your water pump is reverse rotation.
Any pulley on a serpentine belt setup that doesn’t have ribs, turns backwards.
Is there a reason for this?

8. Your radiator may not work with an engine driven clutch fan due to space limitations.
Measure carefully before you buy a radiator. I would actually put the engine in and the serpentine stuff on then measure for the radiator.
The truck’s engine bay might be longer than the area you have.
Ok i will stop now and let u have some fun
Currently don’t have a radiator at all anyway. Was going to do just this. Planned on taking the clutch style fan off and replacing with electric fans out of a Taurus or something.

Thanks for the comments tho!


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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
Few questions:

(posted this in both my threads)

Someone posted some headers in a thread saying I needed new ones, which I agree, my motor is from a 95-00 truck, when looking for headers that fit my car, does this make a difference or should I just be looking for something that fits a 73’ Nova with a 350? I see lots of people in a 73-74’ Nova FB group using 2451HKR Hooker headers.

Also, putting together the stuff I’ll need to get my fuel system working. Going to get a new float and all but mainly need input on connections/filters for the electronic fuel pump. It’s recommended a 100 micron before the pump and 40 after I believe? What other connections/pieces do I need for the puzzle? Recommendations? Might drive over to Summit store tomorrow and look around on my day off.

Fuel pump I’m using....




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Yeah, the larger micron filter before the pump, smaller after the pump.....you are protecting the pump from big trash pieces, then further filtering to protect the carb from smaller trash. For the old school look, the pump before the filter I always used was the Fram HPG-1 assembly, you can find a bunch of clones of it now days, and it a couple of different diameter filter can sizes too for better clearance is some areas.

Header selection is for the chassis and engine family combination, not for the specific year of the engine. In your case, you need it to fit '68-79 Nova and a Gen 1 SBC, doesn't matter what year the engine is since 1955 to 20001 SBC all have the same exhaust port location and bolt pattern. Pipes clearing the chassis is the most important concern for fit in this case.
Typical street header for that application in 1-5/8" primary tube, from most companies, is also going to fit a bunch of other chassis and years too, as they laid out the pipe routing to clear in as many different cars as they could with one header design....so they will typically fit '67-81 Camaro, '65-88 Full-size car, '64-77 Chevelle/Malibu/Monte Carlo, and '73-87 2WD trucks.

When you swap to an LS, it will be '68-79 Nova with LS engine to get correct pipe routing to clear everything...year of the LS engine won't matter.

You'll find as header primary tube size gets bigger, the headers get more specific design to fit each chassis with less multi-chassis fit possibilities.
Such as an 1-7/8" primary race header for the '68-74 Nova and SBC...it will fit the '67-69 Camaro since they share the same subframe, and may still fit the '70-81 Camaro/'75-79 Nova...but they now won't fit the Chevelle because the bigger tube routing to clear the Nova front frame won't fit the Chevelle chassis, steering shaft, etc.

if you study the Hooker HKR-245i tube routing you can see it is the same layout at least a dozen other companies all use also. Very common multi-chassis fit SBC header design. Personally, i find hooker to not be the best on quality, just the most recognized name, and they have been coasting on that name for years. All the poor fitting stuff I ever dealt with was from Hooker in most cases when it came to chassis specific big tube designs....you'd think after 50 years they would be able to make a big tube header that fit a '68 Camaro without having to hammer a dent in a couple tubes...but they don't, and yet they still charge premium price for them.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yeah, the larger micron filter before the pump, smaller after the pump.....you are protecting the pump from big trash pieces, then further filtering to protect the carb from smaller trash. For the old school look, the pump before the filter I always used was the Fram HPG-1 assembly, you can find a bunch of clones of it now days, and it a couple of different diameter filter can sizes too for better clearance is some areas.

Header selection is for the chassis and engine family combination, not for the specific year of the engine. In your case, you need it to fit '68-79 Nova and a Gen 1 SBC, doesn't matter what year the engine is since 1955 to 20001 SBC all have the same exhaust port location and bolt pattern. Pipes clearing the chassis is the most important concern for fit in this case.
Typical street header for that application in 1-5/8" primary tube, from most companies, is also going to fit a bunch of other chassis and years too, as they laid out the pipe routing to clear in as many different cars as they could with one header design....so they will typically fit '67-81 Camaro, '65-88 Full-size car, '64-77 Chevelle/Malibu/Monte Carlo, and '73-87 2WD trucks.

When you swap to an LS, it will be '68-79 Nova with LS engine to get correct pipe routing to clear everything...year of the LS engine won't matter.

You'll find as header primary tube size gets bigger, the headers get more specific design to fit each chassis with less multi-chassis fit possibilities.
Such as an 1-7/8" primary race header for the '68-74 Nova and SBC...it will fit the '67-69 Camaro since they share the same subframe, and may still fit the '70-81 Camaro/'75-79 Nova...but they now won't fit the Chevelle because the bigger tube routing to clear the Nova front frame won't fit the Chevelle chassis, steering shaft, etc.

if you study the Hooker HKR-245i tube routing you can see it is the same layout at least a dozen other companies all use also. Very common multi-chassis fit SBC header design. Personally, i find hooker to not be the best on quality, just the most recognized name, and they have been coasting on that name for years. All the poor fitting stuff I ever dealt with was from Hooker in most cases when it came to chassis specific big tube designs....you'd think after 50 years they would be able to make a big tube header that fit a '68 Camaro without having to hammer a dent in a couple tubes...but they don't, and yet they still charge premium price for them.
Thanks for the basket of knowledge! Love reading stuff like this and being able to educate myself you’ve been very helpful with this post! I’ll get to digging and looking/deciding on a set to snag. Was going to buy now but going to get the motor mounted then buy and install the headers.


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You can put a few gallons of gas in the tank, hookup your electric pump and run the gas back in your gas can. Flush the tank several times, and see what the fuel looks like.
Your PU headers might fit with a little hammer work, I would at least try them first.
You haven’t heard this motor run? I would drop it in the car, and hear it run before spending a bunch on parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
You can put a few gallons of gas in the tank, hookup your electric pump and run the gas back in your gas can. Flush the tank several times, and see what the fuel looks like.
Your PU headers might fit with a little hammer work, I would at least try them first.
You haven’t heard this motor run? I would drop it in the car, and hear it run before spending a bunch on parts.
Didn’t think about that, inside of the tank definitely didn’t look bad though. Prob replace rubber lines for peace of mind, they’re cheap and def seem like they’ve gotten a tad hard.

Considered at least trying but more than likely will just get something specific for my application even though saving money and not would be nice.

I’ve heard it run and rode in the truck it was powered by. Buddy bought a C10, drove it about a year and then decided to LS and pulled this drivetrain out. It’s mildly cammed and has a stall, don’t know specifics on either as he didn’t himself but it ran just fine for him other than dialing in an issue with the carb he had before pulling the motor but he only pulled it to go LS swap.


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Ya know.....
I saw your pickup in the pic with the engine in the back.
It gets about 19-20 miles to the gallon.
The reason is it has an overdrive.
The 400 is a non overdrive trans.
You might be lucky to get 15 with that car.
This is the 21st century in the land of 8 speed cars.
The least you can do is put a trans in it that has overdrive, like a 700R4 or a 200R4.
The 700 will lave a 3.06 first gear, but the 200 has a higher low gear, but the rpm between shifts is less of a drop, and is better for cruising. The 700 is better for launches.
They both will give you a quieter ride on the highway and use less gas.
Your engine will last longer too.
(Or you will blow it up sooner)
You need to use a slip yoke instead of a slip driveshaft.
Put a tremec 6 speed in it and get the best of both worlds!!

Just my opinion.
 

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Didn’t think about that, inside of the tank definitely didn’t look bad though. Prob replace rubber lines for peace of mind, they’re cheap and def seem like they’ve gotten a tad hard.

Considered at least trying but more than likely will just get something specific for my application even though saving money and not would be nice.
The old rubber hose connections will quickly go bad with modern fuel running through them...it is a common issue with today ethanol-ized gasoline. Needs to be a good alcohol proof/flex fuel type current fuel rated hose, the old hoses turn into jelly.

The truck headers, I can tell you just by looking at the passenger side header in the on-engine pic that they will not fit the Nova chassis, you can't hammer them into submission, the front tube needs to move 3" plus. to go down behind the engine crossmember

With proper ignition and carb tuning, I get 17 MPG in my all-steel '72 with a 500+ HP 406, 950 cfm Holley, 3400 stall, TH-400 and 4.56 rear gear....it doesn't take much throttle to maintain the 40 Hp needed to keep it rolling down the highway @ 60 mph, it's less than 10% of the power potential of the engine. Barely got my pinkie toe in the gas pedal.
That's highway mileage tho'', it goes all to hell in stop and go town driving.:D.

200-4R can be built up into a nice transmission, hell the Buick Grand National turbo guys run them clear down into the 9 second 1/4 mile zone....but it needs better than a stock rebuild, it needs some upgraded hard parts.
The 700R4 is a piece of junk IMO, cost you just as much to rebuild and build up, as it isn't strong in stock form either, and that super low 1st gear is worthless in a performance car. The big RPM drop hit you take when it shifts to second is a performance killer.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Ya know.....
I saw your pickup in the pic with the engine in the back.
It gets about 19-20 miles to the gallon.
The reason is it has an overdrive.
The 400 is a non overdrive trans.
You might be lucky to get 15 with that car.
This is the 21st century in the land of 8 speed cars.
The least you can do is put a trans in it that has overdrive, like a 700R4 or a 200R4.
The 700 will lave a 3.06 first gear, but the 200 has a higher low gear, but the rpm between shifts is less of a drop, and is better for cruising. The 700 is better for launches.
They both will give you a quieter ride on the highway and use less gas.
Your engine will last longer too.
(Or you will blow it up sooner)
You need to use a slip yoke instead of a slip driveshaft.
Put a tremec 6 speed in it and get the best of both worlds!!

Just my opinion.
Turbo 400 came with the 350, it’ll be what gets used solely because of economics. The pair works and was cheap enough, I’ll get them in and going and use them for a few years while doing other things to the car and looking for the perfect deal on an LS to toss in the shop corner and build.

The old rubber hose connections will quickly go bad with modern fuel running through them...it is a common issue with today ethanol-ized gasoline. Needs to be a good alcohol proof/flex fuel type current fuel rated hose, the old hoses turn into jelly.

The truck headers, I can tell you just by looking at the passenger side header in the on-engine pic that they will not fit the Nova chassis, you can't hammer them into submission, the front tube needs to move 3" plus. to go down behind the engine crossmember

With proper ignition and carb tuning, I get 17 MPG in my all-steel '72 with a 500+ HP 406, 950 cfm Holley, 3400 stall, TH-400 and 4.56 rear gear....it doesn't take much throttle to maintain the 40 Hp needed to keep it rolling down the highway @ 60 mph, it's less than 10% of the power potential of the engine. Barely got my pinkie toe in the gas pedal.
That's highway mileage tho'', it goes all to hell in stop and go town driving.:D.

200-4R can be built up into a nice transmission, hell the Buick Grand National turbo guys run them clear down into the 9 second 1/4 mile zone....but it needs better than a stock rebuild, it needs some upgraded hard parts.
The 700R4 is a piece of junk IMO, cost you just as much to rebuild and build up, as it isn't strong in stock form either, and that super low 1st gear is worthless in a performance car. The big RPM drop hit you take when it shifts to second is a performance killer.

Is there specific hoses you recommend? Was going to go with what the auto parts store recommended in the size I needed, rather just do something like fuel lines and connections once though. Lol.

Takes a good eye to be able to tell that on the headers but I’m sure those of you whom messed with them constantly know much better than I. I’ve already decided to buy new ones for sure though, always appreciate input like this though!!

Also, appreciate those tidbits of knowledge also, Turbo 400 is what’s staying in the car as long as it’s kickin and the 350 is in there.

Everybody has an opinion
Its one of those things you get when you’re born That’s not like anybody elses.
This is true,


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Best parts store hose is Gates Barricade, or equivalent.
The AeroQuip/Earls/Fragola etc Push-Loc style hose is also good. You can clamp it with a hose clamp just like plain rubber hose, doesn't have to be used with the push-in type AN fittings.

Most stores today are going to have hose of some sort that is good for todays fuels, just don't buy anything that's been sitting on a shelf for 5 years or something you've had in your toolbox for a long time..
 

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Turbo 400 came with the 350, it’ll be what gets used solely because of economics. The pair works and was cheap enough, I’ll get them in and going and use them for a few years while doing other things to the car and looking for the perfect deal on an LS to toss in the shop corner and build.




Is there specific hoses you recommend? Was going to go with what the auto parts store recommended in the size I needed, rather just do something like fuel lines and connections once though. Lol.

Takes a good eye to be able to tell that on the headers but I’m sure those of you whom messed with them constantly know much better than I. I’ve already decided to buy new ones for sure though, always appreciate input like this though!!

Also, appreciate those tidbits of knowledge also, Turbo 400 is what’s staying in the car as long as it’s kickin and the 350 is in there.



This is true,


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Just go to ORileys and buy whatever fuel line they sell you, it will work fine. I wouldn’t go crazy over these minor details, especially when you are talking another motor swap down the road. The best plan on LS swaps is to buy a complete wrecked vehicle that has the motor you want; then you will have the dozens of minor parts needed to get it running.
 
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