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Discussion Starter #1
ok so i just got my car back today with my new wheels and disc brakes

i got the force ten 2 piston super duity brake conversion from ssbc

only the fronts were done and the backs were adjusted

now when i slam on the brakes they dont lock up

also if im going slow i cant insta stop the vehicle is there a way to make them more responsive or is it cuz my back brakes arent disc yet?
 

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ok so i just got my car back today with my new wheels and disc brakes

i got the force ten 2 piston super duity brake conversion from ssbc

only the fronts were done and the backs were adjusted

now when i slam on the brakes they dont lock up

also if im going slow i cant insta stop the vehicle is there a way to make them more responsive or is it cuz my back brakes arent disc yet?
I found the SSBC kit did not make any difference over stock. Are you using a combo valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found the SSBC kit did not make any difference over stock. Are you using a combo valve?
excuse my noobism whats a combo valve? i had a brake guy install this kit


would having back discs make it better?

and shouldnt the front be locking up if i slam on them?
 

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and shouldnt the front be locking up if i slam on them?
Yes, they should.

I am facing the same problem and opened a thread asking whether the force 10 calipers were any better than the OE-style that I have (it is the A123-3 Kit). I am using a pressuer regulator valve for the rear, but it apparently does not make a difference for the efficacy of the front brakes - they are still not locking up. I could manage to get the rears locking up, though :D

Regards from overseas,

Boris
 

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A combination valve is a metering valve and proportioning valve in one assembly that is used for disc/ drum brake setups. Did a master cylinder come in a kit, or did you buy one off the shelf?
 

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do you have sticky summer/track tires? If so, you won't lock your brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
They are brand new street tires on brand new 15x7 rims with the new force 10 super duity 2 piston ssbc disc brake conversionkit. I can take a pic of the master cylinder in a min but it did come with one in the kit
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i assume this is the pressure gauge its set at 0 and if i turn it either way it doesnt do anything but i dont have someone to step on the brakes for me so i dunno if it goes up when your apply presssure




the whole thing




the wheels and brakes




 

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I'm having a similar issue, and it looks like our brake kits are very similar. I didn't install that pressure adjuster or the booster, and am hoping that once I do, my stopping power will be better. I was also told that I need an appropriate disc/drum prop valve, and that the stock drum/drum prop valve is inadequate, so I guess that's on my list too.

In keeping your prop valve and installing that pressure adjuster, I'm wondering what it will really do, since your stock rear brakes and prop valve haven't changed. I guess I don't quite understand what should go where, and what should be kept/replaced. You'd think that a conversion kit would come with the proper proportioning valve though.
 

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i assume this is the pressure gauge its set at 0 and if i turn it either way it doesnt do anything but i dont have someone to step on the brakes for me so i dunno if it goes up when your apply presssure




the whole thing



1st, the guage will not move without pushing the pedal.
2nd, the block under the master cyl.(line that goes to your prop.valve and guage)is the part that needs to be changed to the newer disc brake style valve
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)

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IMO you have too much plumbing there. That block under the MC can be removed, you dont need it. You will need a T-fitting there.

The proportioning vavle you need, and you have one, make sure its on the rear line??. Thats that valve with the gauge. I dont know why they put a gauge, it shouldn't be used. Talk about spring. On a hydraulic braking system you want it as tight as possible. That means a solid column of hydraulic fluid being pushed from the MC to the slave cylinder, brake caliper or drum.

Thats why we bleed to get ALL the air and spring (air compresses, hydraulic fluid does not) out. That gauge, it uses the movement of the column of fluid to move a tube. So you are using up critical fluid movement to move the gauge tube ever so slightly. But because its on the back brakes it doesnt matter that much, you just turn the dial for more brake. But it still eats up pedal travel. And really, its a gimmick, you dont adjust the back brake pressure by looking at a gauge. You do it with road testing.

The plumbing should be the front circuit T-ed, I like it T-ed in the center of the engine compartment for equal fluid travel but that may not be needed. Then the rear MC port goes as one line to the rear, with a proportioning valve somewhere on that line. And the rear line gets T-ed for each side.. JR

Oh, and you should be able to lock up your front brakes, I dont care what wazzu tires you have. Thats why they invented anti locking brakes cause some folks just couldnt modulate the pedal for good braking, specially in the rain. And really, even if you have the widest and stickiest tires available you should still be able to lock them up. If not then its time for a new MC. And I say master cylinder cause the huge rotors you see dont aid in locking up a wheel, just great for brake fade. But a properly matched MC for the caliper will lock up the stickiest of tires..
 

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IMO you have too much plumbing there. That block under the MC can be removed, you dont need it. You will need a T-fitting there.

The proportioning vavle you need, and you have one, make sure its on the rear line??. Thats that valve with the gauge. I dont know why they put a gauge, it shouldn't be used. Talk about spring. On a hydraulic braking system you want it as tight as possible. That means a solid column of hydraulic fluid being pushed from the MC to the slave cylinder, brake caliper or drum.

Thats why we bleed to get ALL the air and spring (air compresses, hydraulic fluid does not) out. That gauge, it uses the movement of the column of fluid to move a tube. So you are using up critical fluid movement to move the gauge tube ever so slightly. But because its on the back brakes it doesnt matter that much, you just turn the dial for more brake. But it still eats up pedal travel. And really, its a gimmick, you dont adjust the back brake pressure by looking at a gauge. You do it with road testing.

The plumbing should be the front circuit T-ed, I like it T-ed in the center of the engine compartment for equal fluid travel but that may not be needed. Then the rear MC port goes as one line to the rear, with a proportioning valve somewhere on that line. And the rear line gets T-ed for each side.. JR
Wow, that's really helpful. I'm going to have to try that. Thanks!
 

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i have never used ssbc.they do tons of ads in all he magazines and tv.

but i have heard from some people at car shows that i have talked to that they are not impressed at all with the ssbc product.

i am not here to bash there product.

thats why i love going to car shows.you find people with products that you are intrested in and get there opinions on it.

NOGO

i also remember reading your post on this.all i can say is thank you.:clap:
because of this i started looking for people with ssbc at car shows and i did get some of the same reviews like you said.no improvment over stock.

now i will go with wilwoods.
 

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The gauge will not give you any noticable increase in pedal travel. The adjustable prop valve should not be necessary with your setup. If the valve pictured is not a combo valve you need to ditch it and get one. Brake systems should be designed to lock the front brakes first for safety- if you lock up your front brakes you slide straight, if the rears you slide in a circle. I would contact SSBC and ask them about the combo valve as a first step.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
thanks this is a great responce

now i dont really know what tubes to connect or what "tee" your talking about could you link a product for the tee and maybe if you have time put a couple of arrows on that pic to show me where i have to change it

or is there a thread or a link that gives me instructions on how to do it?

IMO you have too much plumbing there. That block under the MC can be removed, you dont need it. You will need a T-fitting there.

The proportioning vavle you need, and you have one, make sure its on the rear line??. Thats that valve with the gauge. I dont know why they put a gauge, it shouldn't be used. Talk about spring. On a hydraulic braking system you want it as tight as possible. That means a solid column of hydraulic fluid being pushed from the MC to the slave cylinder, brake caliper or drum.

Thats why we bleed to get ALL the air and spring (air compresses, hydraulic fluid does not) out. That gauge, it uses the movement of the column of fluid to move a tube. So you are using up critical fluid movement to move the gauge tube ever so slightly. But because its on the back brakes it doesnt matter that much, you just turn the dial for more brake. But it still eats up pedal travel. And really, its a gimmick, you dont adjust the back brake pressure by looking at a gauge. You do it with road testing.

The plumbing should be the front circuit T-ed, I like it T-ed in the center of the engine compartment for equal fluid travel but that may not be needed. Then the rear MC port goes as one line to the rear, with a proportioning valve somewhere on that line. And the rear line gets T-ed for each side.. JR

Oh, and you should be able to lock up your front brakes, I dont care what wazzu tires you have. Thats why they invented anti locking brakes cause some folks just couldnt modulate the pedal for good braking, specially in the rain. And really, even if you have the widest and stickiest tires available you should still be able to lock them up. If not then its time for a new MC. And I say master cylinder cause the huge rotors you see dont aid in locking up a wheel, just great for brake fade. But a properly matched MC for the caliper will lock up the stickiest of tires..
 

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i assume this is the pressure gauge its set at 0 and if i turn it either way it doesnt do anything but i dont have someone to step on the brakes for me so i dunno if it goes up when your apply presssure

the whole thing

does anyone else see the problems I see? The rear line from the master cylinder is going to the rear output of the distribution block and the line going to the back brakes is connected to the input of the distribution block. It looks like the rear line is kinked as well.

Find out what type of compound is used on the front brake pads. It may have to warm up before the brakes really work. does it stop better after the third stop? Also, was fresh brake fluid installed.

Edit: With brake pressure being applied directly against the proportioning valve that way, it may have closed off the front brakes and you only have the back
 

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I have the SSBC kit with the original dist block. The piping looks how mine is set up, minus the kink, and I was able to bleed my rear brakes. I'm also able to stop very well with minimum force. I have not tried to lock my brakes though.
 
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