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Discussion Starter #1
Came out nice, Sounds like it has a blower when its running.. ;)

The only problem is the new alternator is only putting out 12.5 volts at an idle and when it gets to 900 rpm from 750 rpm, its shoots right up to 14 volts. I spoke to the guy who makes them and He is going to call me tonight. I converted over from an external regulator to the CS130 (140 amps) which is internally regulated.

He said I don't need the idiot light and that may be the problem, its seeing too much resistance. Seeing I have a voltage regulator, the light is not needed. He also said it could be under driven a little with the new cog system. I have to call him again tonight to go over the wiring diagram I used to see if that was a factor. This is what I used CS130 Conversion

One of the pics suck but, you get the idea..

 

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Couple of things to check. The CS130 need 1800 -2000 RPM to really come on. It looks like your crank pully isn't much bigger than your alt pulley. The Crank pulley needs to be about 2.5 times as big as the alt pulley for it to work at 750 RPM engine speed.

I would leave the idiot light hooked up. You need to energize the altenator when you start the car. There are a couple of ways to do it, but IMO the idiot light circuit is the best way. Make sure you have the idiot light hooked to the correct terminal on the altenator
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Couple of things to check. The CS130 need 1800 -2000 RPM to really come on. It looks like your crank pully isn't much bigger than your alt pulley. The Crank pulley needs to be about 2.5 times as big as the alt pulley for it to work at 750 RPM engine speed.

I would leave the idiot light hooked up. You need to energize the altenator when you start the car. There are a couple of ways to do it, but IMO the idiot light circuit is the best way. Make sure you have the idiot light hooked to the correct terminal on the altenator
My crank and water pump is 4 1/2 inch in dia, the alternator pulley is 2 1/2. So, I guess thats the problem.
 

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Came out nice, Sounds like it has a blower when its running.. ;)

The only problem is the new alternator is only putting out 12.5 volts at an idle and when it gets to 900 rpm from 750 rpm, its shoots right up to 14 volts.
normal operation.
No issue!

Unless you can drive your car below 900rpm.:rolleyes:

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I spoke with the manufacture tonight, he said it should not be doing that. He said the alternator should energize at 800 - 900 rotor RPM (Mine is at 1160) and stay charging not go back down like its doing. So, he is sending me a new one, sending this one back Monday morning.

My old alternator did not do this.
 

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I spoke with the manufacture tonight, he said it should not be doing that. He said the alternator should energize at 800 - 900 rotor RPM (Mine is at 1160) and stay charging not go back down like its doing. So, he is sending me a new one, sending this one back Monday morning.

My old alternator did not do this.
That's good. Hopefully this one works better. Altenator operation speed for most CS130s to fully charge is about 1800 - 20,000, but people do push them faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
He also told me that a one wire would be better. According to him, the one wire will start to charge at about 1000 rotor rpm and stay charging no matter what the RPM till the engine is turned off. I may just go with a one wire..
 

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I switched to a one wire many years ago and it works great. Just blip the throttle to energize it on start up. Disconnect the battery when not using the car.
 
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