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went to change my control arm bushings and ball joints. ball joint were the easy part. started to do the lower bushings first and as i was pressing the bushing out the the area were the bushing seats started to crush as the bushing started to come out. no problem a little heat move back out. well sounds easier than done. so i ordered new upper and lower arms from the parts place. i all ready bought new moog joints. should i replace the ones in the arms with the moog. i dont want to put the car back together and find out down the road they were cheap china joints. the rubber boot says baw 463521. and do you think i should install the poly bushings i was going to use. thanx for any input on this issue.:confused:
 

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Im a lil lost. You were gonna keep your arms and press out the old bushings and destroyed the arms so new arms are ordered??? Moog ball joints are fine. if you want to spend some money look at some howe joints, but I think the moog are fine. And for the bushings?? Im not a fan of poly. Rubber is fine. I prefer metal or heim joints if not rubber. JR
 

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Old original bushings never just press out. Usually they are crusted in tight. The best way to remove them is to burn the old rubber out with a torch then use an air chisel to knock the rest out.
We did that with a lot of rebuilds at the restoration shop I worked at and never damaged anything.
 

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Old original bushings never just press out. Usually they are crusted in tight. The best way to remove them is to burn the old rubber out with a torch then use an air chisel to knock the rest out.
We did that with a lot of rebuilds at the restoration shop I worked at and never damaged anything.
Sorry but I disagree. With a proper setup and a nice press they slide right out. Sure, for the timid that loud initial BANG is a lil frightening, but once they break loose they slide right out.

The key is proper setup. Sometimes imagination helps. As a hobby machinist set ups are the key to many jobs.

I use a large, quality bearing separator to get in between the flange of the bushing and the control arm end. Apply just enough squeeze with the separator to get in between the flange and the CA end (make sure the tool is positioned correctly so the flat side is against the CA end).

Once I have just the slightest amount of grab on the flange, and it doesnt take much, doesnt even look like its in there really, it doesnt move the flange out at all. I move to the press and block the separator up with clearance under it and use a rod that will fit through the other CA end and a slug of metal in between that and the bushing. Press away.

Its a 20 min job for all four bushings. The key to doing a job correctly is having proper tools. The bearing separator is a forged tool, not a cheap cast HF tool. And the press is good for 50 tons. Never saw a bushing that liked the CAs that much that they wouldnt come out. JR
 
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