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Discussion Starter #21
Question for you guys. My rear springs are very stiff (5 leaf), like the car barely moves when we push on the back. Is this just the nature of these springs, or could old mushroomed bushings or over torqued shackles cause this?

Also, has anybody found a shock extension for the bottom of the shock? I ordered shocks for it a few years ago, and even when making sure I got shocks for a multi-leaf setup, the shocks are like 1" short when fully extended and the car is sitting on the wheels. I don't want to do extensions on top, but I'm thinking at this point that I might have to just bite the bullet and get rear shocks that are longer. I have Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks, so if anybody has a part number that works that would be awesome :)
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Update time. Since I posted, I've moved the car from my parent's house to my house, and have done the following work:
  • New control arm bushings
  • New Moog springs (slightly lowering, as they're Camaro Z28 springs)
  • New shocks in front
  • New brake shoes and springs
  • New sway bar end links
  • Painted all front suspension and part of frame
  • New poly leaf spring bushings
  • Painted and installed newer 5-leaf springs with poly pads
  • Installed subframe connectors
  • Removed original AC components and installed AC delete cover
  • New fuel pump
  • Installed AMD 2" cowl hood
  • Installed new AMD rear bumper (in progress)
  • Refinished early Z28 "mag" rally wheels
  • New Cooper Cobra tires (255/60-15 in rear, 235/60-15 in front)
  • Installed new headliner
  • Put temporary seat covers over high back bucket seats
Items currently being worked on:
  • Installing bluetooth module where the original radio was and figure out stereo system
  • Install longer rear shocks
  • Fix, dye and install original AC dash pad
  • Put triple gauge setup in original AC center dash opening (anybody have pictures of doing this? I've never seen it)
  • Get new battery installed
  • Install temporary fuel filter by pump (still using the original tank, I'd like to see if there's still stuff flowing through)
  • Possibly install QJet when removed from my dad's '67 Chevelle
Anybody have any pointers for refinishing and fixing cracks in the dash pad?

That's my little helper in the picture, she really likes playing with dad's tools more than the play tools she has in the shed :)
IMG_20190914_161758417.jpg

IMG_20190914_161808061.jpg

IMG_20190914_161825037.jpg
 

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It's great she has the interest in what Dad's up to! Pay attention to her, these years are some of the VERY best ones.

As for your cracked dash....I've seen others do the repairs by cutting a v-shape and filling it in with some rubber-like compound then recovering. Now those were old cracks too.
In my case, the cracks were fairly new so I just had an upholstery shop pull off the old vinyl and install stretchable marine grade vinyl over the old pad. It's been two years and no sign of the cracks (in the old padding) have come through so far.
Others on SNS will likely have better ideas for you but here's one, at least.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Battery was bought yesterday, just the cheap $50 WalMart battery for now. I think I need to buy new bolts for the battery tray though, as the typical body bolts are too long and are poking into the bottom of the battery. I also need a battery hold-down kit.

Windshield is going in today. Got a mobile company coming out to do it for $125 (with me supplying the windshield from Auto City Classic, who is local to me), as well as replacing the windshield in my truck at the same time.

Hopefully I'll get time to tighten my front suspension bolts tonight since the sheet metal is all on. I do need to figure out why I'm sitting an inch lower on the driver's side in back, as that's making the front sit 1/2" lower. It's visible from looking at it, not just measuring it :(
It's great she has the interest in what Dad's up to! Pay attention to her, these years are some of the VERY best ones.

As for your cracked dash....I've seen others do the repairs by cutting a v-shape and filling it in with some rubber-like compound then recovering. Now those were old cracks too.
In my case, the cracks were fairly new so I just had an upholstery shop pull off the old vinyl and install stretchable marine grade vinyl over the old pad. It's been two years and no sign of the cracks (in the old padding) have come through so far.
Others on SNS will likely have better ideas for you but here's one, at least.
I try to keep her attention in the shop, and she loves to play in the car (sometimes she lets me "drive", other times I'm confined to the passenger seat!).

My cracks are from the car sitting in a junkyard for anywhere from 2-20 years (tags were from 1987 or so when I bought it in 2012). I'll check with an old coworker who does vinyl repairs to see if I can buy the stuff he uses in a smaller, non-commercial size.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Haven't gotten a real chance to do much but order a couple parts. I need to make a backing panel to match the opening better and refinish it (thinking of a textured spray to match the dash panel), but it looks like a 3-gauge set of 2" gauges fit perfectly in the center AC vent. The gauges are cheap from Amazon (and in metric), but they have electric sending units for oil pressure and water temp.

IMG_20190930_183752642_2.jpg

I also ordered a cheap tach to use for now to tune the carb and just for general driving purposes.

I did a quick look, and the height difference in back might be adjusted somewhat by loosening the mounting points to the body and trying to move the front spring perch back (and maybe just having the same size tires in back when tightening everything up will help :turn:). Hopefully that helps the front. I know the front springs aren't quite in the seats on the lower control arm, but that's hard to do with just one person. I'll adjust those at some point too.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Question for you guys. When installing the springs (Moog 6308, so shorter than stock), which spring stop is more important if you have to choose: upper or lower? I'm not sure if these springs will hit both spring stops, so I might have to adjust them to be in one or the other. I thought I read somewhere that the lower is more important, but then I've read on other sites that you want them lined up at the top. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Info from what I have read... and done.
I use the top spring pocket for referencing the installation of the front springs. If you look at the top side of the upper spring pocket, you should see a small hole where the coil of the spring would rest (spring on the underside of this pocket).

I place a small screwdriver into this hole and install the front spring so the end of the top coil touches the inserted screwdriver... then I rotate the spring away from the screwdriver so that the end of the top coil is about 1/4"-3/8" away from the screwdriver. The bottom of the spring coil will rest where ever it lies based on the correctly positioning of the top of the spring.
 

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Looks like its coming along pretty well. I like the work you've do so far, should be a nice ride when done. Hope its not another year before the next update lol.:yes:
 

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You're local to auto city classics? WOW!
They sent me my brake upgrade, and it works fabulously.
I went from 4 wheel drum (NON Power) to LS fronts and AutoCity supplied the booster/master/combi valve setup.

If you need to, that's a good route. I stole the LS fronts from a car in the junkyard and did the LS conversion, but it didn't work well, until I got the booster setup in.

I've got the Quadrajunk from my Nova still around here somewhere. I ditched it for a used Edelbrock that I rebuilt that works better for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Info from what I have read... and done.
I use the top spring pocket for referencing the installation of the front springs. If you look at the top side of the upper spring pocket, you should see a small hole where the coil of the spring would rest (spring on the underside of this pocket).

I place a small screwdriver into this hole and install the front spring so the end of the top coil touches the inserted screwdriver... then I rotate the spring away from the screwdriver so that the end of the top coil is about 1/4"-3/8" away from the screwdriver. The bottom of the spring coil will rest where ever it lies based on the correctly positioning of the top of the spring.
I'll have to give that a try if I can get an adult helper out to the shop, as it's hard doing it alone.
Looks like its coming along pretty well. I like the work you've do so far, should be a nice ride when done. Hope its not another year before the next update lol.:yes:
I hope it's not another year too, as that means I haven't gotten anything done! I need to have one wheel/tire looked at, as it's losing air really fast.
Great job so far! :yes:

You and your helper must be proud, looking super! :thumbsup:
Thanks!
You're local to auto city classics? WOW!
They sent me my brake upgrade, and it works fabulously.
I went from 4 wheel drum (NON Power) to LS fronts and AutoCity supplied the booster/master/combi valve setup.

If you need to, that's a good route. I stole the LS fronts from a car in the junkyard and did the LS conversion, but it didn't work well, until I got the booster setup in.

I've got the Quadrajunk from my Nova still around here somewhere. I ditched it for a used Edelbrock that I rebuilt that works better for me.
They're about 10 minutes away from me, and I see them at the two big shows in the Twin Cities each year. I haven't decided what braking system to do. I rebuilt the front drums just to have brakes working, and I will rebuild the rears if I can ever get the drums off (welded to the axle by rust). I don't know if the LS fronts will clear my wheels. I have looked at this "big brake" swap, but again, I haven't decided:
http://www.pozziracing.com/cheap_big_brakes.htm

I do have my disc brake setup on the '73 parts car subframe, but I don't want the wheels sticking out any farther than they are with the 15x7 4.25"bs wheels.
 

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Hello from Phoenix. You're getting there. Keep up the great work. Getting the car in black primer cleaned it right up. That's the next step to my car as well. Hoping to get it whatever color I choose by end of the year. Keep the updates coming!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Not much for updates, as I haven't gotten much done. I have a new fuel sending unit on the way (gas gauge didn't work, there's no connectivity from the pin on the original sender to the body of it), and just a lot of random stuff to do. I got my wheel fixed for the leak, but have to respray it this weekend to put back on, as well as spraying the rear frame pieces I had to weld again. Hoping to get it put together enough to drive, so the main thing is gonna be brakes, welding the seat brackets that I made with my dad, and tuning the engine.

I do have a question for you guys though. Do the non-assembled door panels have everything but the lock location drilled out? I'm thinking of using 68 panels at some point with my 72 upper reinforcement if that's the case as they just look better and should match the (eventual) new 72 seat covers. I'll run my dyed original panels for now, but always thinking to the future... Thanks!
 
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