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Discussion Starter #1
well after toasting my 383 i decided it was time for a little upgrade. My 383 had 13:1 compression and had to run on race fuel so this next motor will run on pump gas.
Its a 434 with a new dart SHP block

-New Scat/Eagle 4340 forged steel crankshaft

-Eagle H-Beam connecting rods ( Bushed Fit Pins )

-New SRP Professional forged high performance aluminum pistons, with pins and locks(10.9:1 with my heads)

-High performance plasma moly piston ring set

-ACL/Clevite 77 Rod & Main Bearings

-Dura Bond Cam Bearings

- Canfield 220cc heads

-right now i have a 750cfm proform carb but i think i need to go bigger.

- victor jr intake

so that brings me to the cam selection, im gonna call a couple different place some ideas on a custom cam. Its gonna be a solid roller with somewhere around .650 lift and 285 duration. I am looking for a Ridiculous amount of low end torque and a good solid power curve to pull me through the traps.
Any suggestions, comments or info would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
Matt
 

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Contact the memeber on here that goes by CAMGRINDER. He is a very knowledgable guy and will treat you right! I am running one of his cams and it is everything he said it would be and more!
 

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I have a 383 that I built and I got my cam from Doug Herbert . I gave then the specs on my set up and they matched a cam . Price was right and service great
 

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I'd recommend giving ol' Harold a call. Harold Brookshire's #.
662-562-4933 He's definitely the "DOG" when it comes to getting a new cam that doesn't have 20+ yr old lobe designs.:yes:

Also, I would think long and hard about the ACTUAL purpose and use of the car. If it's going to see a bit of street miles I'd suggest asking him about some of his newer solid flat tappet designs that actually have faster ramps than 90% of the so called "Street rollers". Lets face it, .650" lift isn't all that aggressive anymore:no: and is EASILY attainable with a solid flat tappet:yes: that will run for 75,000+ miles without needing the lifters inspected/rebuilt on a regular basis.

If "ALL-OUT" performance is what you're after, then you've got the wrong heads and you need to expect more like .750"-.780" lift.:yes: And YES, it will be a solid roller. Harold and Lunati are the only people in the industry that gring their rollers with a cast (or melonized) distributor gear (standard practice--no extra charge) so you're not required to run a bronze or composite distributor gear that wear out frequently, ESPECIALLY if you're using a high volume or high pressure oil pump.:yes:

Make sure you think your intended usage along with all of the other accompanying parts (stall, gear, vehicle weight, transmission type, etc..) before you call the cam wizard of choice. The more accurate you can be, the more accurate your recommendations will be..:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It is going to be a street car that i drive to shows and around town, but i also wanna race it on the weekends. The car currently weights about 3200 with me in it, has a th350 reverse manual valve body with tranny brake and a 4500 stall. gears are 4.56. I plan on eventually sending the heads out to be CNC'd but at the moment i dont have the cash. I looking for a car that could run 10.5's all day and drives on the street and i think that is very possible.
Thanks
Matt
 

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When you get ready to work up the heads, Give HVH (High Velocity Heads) a call. I believe they were the responsible for designing the original Canfield heads for John YEARS ago. They've also got a pretty good amount of notable racers running their heads!!
http://www.highvelocityheads.com/
(865) 573-9151

Your goals are VERY obtainable!!

If you're not going to run a shaft rocker set-up (Which I would highly recommend:yes:) then just remember to take your time fitting the split-guide plates.:yes: They can be a pain and time consuming but they work just fine. Consider the rocker system carefully before you start spending money. By the time you buy the off-set rockers, girdles, etc. you'll be a lot closer than you think to getting the shaft set-up and being done with it.

A solid flat tappet will get you want you want pretty easily with a lot less service concerns:yes: but a solid roller would make it easier. Something in the 265-275 @ .050 neighborhood is where you'll probably be looking. Maybe a bit more if your compression is high enough and your converter is "adjusted" a little closer to 5000.

A GOOD, tight converter will make all the difference in the world when it comes to making heat on the street and MPH at the track. Being a heavier car especially!! There's calculators available (your converter company should have them:yes:) to figure your amount of slippage through the traps. They will need to know your tire size, finish line RPM and trap MPH. A GOOD converter will have around 7% slippage where I've seen some budget converters come in closer to 20%.

Hope this helps.
Killer build. Enjoy!!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yea i will def give them a call when im ready to get the heads CNC'd. probably wont be till next winter or fall. I had these heads on a 383 with a solid roller set up with 1.5 and 1.6 rockers, so i think i should be fine with the rocker arms i have now.
 

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WOW. Considering those heads were designed around a 4.125" bore, you're actually going to see them work up to their full potential.

So you've already got the off-set rockers and fitted the split-guide plates? Hell, 90% of the fun is already done then.

Be sure and check the pushrod length carefully. Mine was WAAAY off. I ended up with 8.25" long (stock BBC intake) pushrods!! Combination of deck height, small base circle cam and longer valves.

What intake do you have? Most of the available offerings won't flow what the heads do without a good bit of porting.
 

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266-272 @.050 ,.675 .630 108lsa , this would scream ! But I WOULD Consider an hp1000 .
That's actually a pretty gentle couple lobes. There's quite a few more out there that have quite a bit more intensity.

Tip: Compare the adv. duration #'s vs. .050" duration #'s to get an idea of the lobes hydraulic intensity.:yes:

Then look at the adv. duration vs. lift.

Simple logic will start to turn the light on.:devil:
More lift per duration=more intense
More duration @ .050" per adv. duration=more intense

Just watch out for how each different cam company rates their adv. duration..:rolleyes:

Total lift vs. .050" duration will give you a clue as well.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So you've already got the off-set rockers and fitted the split-guide plates? Hell, 90% of the fun is already done then.
Yea i have the off set rockers and guide plates fitted already.

Be sure and check the pushrod length carefully. Mine was WAAAY off. I ended up with 8.25" long (stock BBC intake) pushrods!! Combination of deck height, small base circle cam and longer valves.
Yea the pushrods i know that i am probably going to have to check. I have the pushrod tool so it should be real quick and easy.

What intake do you have? Most of the available offerings won't flow what the heads do without a good bit of porting.
I have the Edelbrock victor jr intake, so im probably going to have to port it or upgrade to another one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
And yes i have the rocker arms and guide plates already setup. i have the pushrod tool from comp cams so checking what size i need will be a breeze.
 

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434 sbc

I have a tall deck iron eagle 434 with Brodix 11-X heads with a Howards roller cam. Cam part number 111113-08 spec. .638 in and .645 ex. Intake dur @.050
264 and 274 on the ex....I'm running 1.65 rockers which make this a .701 in and .709 ex. and setup for 10.5.1 cc.

It dynoed 570hp and 568 ft/lb trq. at 6700 rpm's using 1-3/4" headers..With 2" headers and lighter wight oil it made 600Hp. This was with a 850 Speed Demon..

I'm currently running a 950 QuickFuel carb and I get about 8 mpg with a 4.10 gear and a th-350 w 3200-3500 stall...It streetable but loves the fuel...

Eddie
 

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266-272 @.050 ,.675 .630 108lsa , this would scream ! But I WOULD Consider an hp1000 .
I just had a 427 built (same motor smaller bore) and used comp cams to come up with a custom grind solid roller. I went smaller than you are planning due to what I was looking for but the guy told me on a motor with that many cubes a bigger lobe separation was better. My cam is around 600 lift with 112ls.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok so after inspecting the heads i discovered that the guy i bought them from didnt know what he was talking about and it turns out that they are the canfield 200cc heads and not the 220cc. They have been opened up and gasket matched so the port sizes are identical to the 220cc heads but i dont know if i should bother wasting my time and putting them on my new combo.
So now i guess im in the market for a new set of heads.
Does anyone have any suggestions? I was looking at the dart pro 1 platinum 230 cc heads, i found a place that has them for little over a grand. any input?
Thanks
Matt
 

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any input?
thanks
Matt
well I know I had a set of Dart Pro 1's....215's and the motor really could used a bigger set of head's. SO.................If you get thoese 230's it should really wake up that motor. JMO
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update...

ok well my friend has a set of new afr 227 heads that i am going to see how much he is willing to get rid of them for. I have heard that the afr 227 heads have crappy springs, has anyone else heard this? But before i go spending any money i am curious as to whether or not the piston to valve clearance will be fine. Its a 434 stroker with srp -16cc dish pistons. approx lift on the cam is .690/.645. Does anyone have any input?
Thanks
Matt
 

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regardless of what heads and pistons you get you always check valve to piston clearance and also check the radial clearance to make sure the valve pockets are big enough. Don't just go by what people say your machine shop should check it. Its part of the blueprinting and prefitting process in assembly.

As far as your heads go, without extensive porting your 200's are small. You can only port them so much until the become useless. They'll work but your engine won't do squat over 6,000 RPM. You'll be choking the engine. Sell the canfields and the vic jr and go with those AFR227's or bigger brodix Track 1's . Use a super victor or a bowtie intake or the newer strip dominator or the Brodix/HVH manifold. Street/strip engines only need to make good power to 7,000. In an all out race effort I'd say spin it higher.
 

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The AFR 227's are some nice heads.:yes: Just a smidge larger than the Brodix track 1's (227 vs. 221) and yes, The 227 has 60/40 valve spacing and piston valve pockets should be checked. Their 227's should have a decent spring package on it (if they were ordered for use with a solid roller). It's their smaller line heads (especially in the SBF world) that got them a reputation for coming with lame springs. The 165 and 185 SBF heads were all set up for a typical flat tappet hydraulic application (up to .550" lift?) and 99% of the heads sold went into hydraulic roller applications which required quite a bit more.

The Dart 230's have shown pretty good results as well but need a little work to REALLY shine.

The RHS 235 is a nice head as well but be sure if you go this route to buy them from some place like Competition Products that finishes them and assembles them in house. They've had a recent issue of having the guides a bit too tight in the assemblies coming straight from RHS.

Another player in the game is ProFiler's latest offerings. I'm not sure if they are all available yet but their base assemblies are priced under a grand and they are having CNC programs worked on by some of the best cylinder head guru's in the business as you read this. A couple (in the 230cc range) have already shown flow numbers into the 340's!!:eek::devil:

Do you already HAVE the pistons or are you still in the planning stages? If you haven't already bought the pistons, now would be the perfect time to entertain the idea of a set of 15* or 18* heads.:yes: There's a substantial power gain to be had over ANY of the 23* offerings.:devil:
 
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