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If you have a temp gun check the temperature drop at the radiator necks. 30 degrees normally should work if you have decent water flow. I would bet that fan setup you have is not up to the task. First your not pulling air through much of the core and second those blades are awful tiny. Unless they spin really really fast I can't see them moving much air. Driving down the road will only make a big difference if it's pretty cool outside, during summer natural airflow normally won't be enough to keep a decent motor cool.
 

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hose

When you guys mention the lower hose collapsing, do you mean the hose kinking, or having a bend in it? It supposed to be nice and hard right with no bends?
 

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When you guys mention the lower hose collapsing, do you mean the hose kinking, or having a bend in it? It supposed to be nice and hard right with no bends?
yea it should be firm, some cheaper brands are pretty flimsey, I like Gates always good stuff if you can get your hands on it. Some lower hoses also have a spring inside to help them keep shape. I doubt that is your problem at idle but could be a factor while going down the road. You can simply rev the engine up and watch it to see what's going on.
 

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You could ask your local radiator shop to use their infrared temperature sensor to make sure you are getting a good reading on your gauge.

Side thought: Don't all 400 SBC engines run hot?
 

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Just a thought but I would tackle one thing at a time rather change 3 or 4 things at once.......

Todd
 

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Also I heard that the 400 blocks require steam holes to be drilled in the heads or you would have some heating issues, not sure that's true or not.. I know I had to do that on a ford :eek: 302 with Edelbrock heads..
 

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Don't all 400 SBC engines run hot?
My 414" small block with half-filled water jackets and no steam holes would run cooler than the junk 350 I ran. It did creep up to about 190 after long freeway drives, but then it came back down in traffic.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
OK, I put the large fan on, installed and new lower hose, removed the thermostat completely. Did much better. Drove it round and round the neighborhood (was scared to get too far away), it got up to 200. I checked the part number, re-read the specs, it a clockwise hi-flow weiand short pump. I'm assuming, the engine runs clockwise too? LOL I just added some octane booster to the 110 I'm using. I'll try it again tomorrow, I think I'm gonna take it to dragstrip Sunday. Here's some pics, the first link is pics I took today. The second link is the album of the whole project, to include pics from when I got it with the 454 in it.

http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/davebat/Latest Nova Pics/

http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj92/davebat/72 Nova/?albumview=slideshow
 

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What is your initial timming set at? I suggest you run at least 20 initial and around 36 total. Initial timming makes a huge difference in idle temps. Are you runing vacuum advance on the distributor? If so where is it hooked to ported or no ported?
 

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Get a good thermostsat like a Robert Shaw (I've had good luck with them). With nothing there, and a high flow water pump, the coolant can be flowing too fast and not giving the radiator enough time to remove the heat from the coolant. You must have a thermostat or a PROPERLY SIZED restrictor on a street car. Your flow restrictor may have been too large. I'd say your fans were definately a problem, but you changed that. The 350 I have in my car now like 21 degrees initial timing and 36degrees total mechanical advance with a vacuum advance running to a ported source, so your 20 degree setting may not be too far off. Put a good thermostat back in there and see what happens.

Also, just because the fan is bigger dosen't always mean it's better. What brand is it and what's the cfm rating on it? Running around at 200 degrees isn't that bad, and definately isn't considered overheating. My Pontiac engines run at 200 degrees and run just fine. Also, where are you taking your temps from? The cylinder head location can run a little hotter than from the water crossover on the intake manifold.

Nice looking car in your pics, but you need to build a firewall behind your back seat. It's not just for racing, but for safety. ANd if you have a safety conscious tech inspection at your local track, they're not going to let you run. NHRA adn IHRA rules both state that if you have a fuel cell in the trunk, you MUST have a proper firewall seperating the trunk from the passenger compartment.
 

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All good ideas given, and one other thing I was thinking .. proper valve lash.

Jeff
 
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