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I have a small block 406 with a 180 thermostat and a Be cool 22.5 inch radiator. I have heat issues when car idles for 5+ mins. I was thinking of installing an electric fan to cure this.

Since I have a Be Cool radiator, I called the folks over at Be Cool and asked what they recommend.

The following kit is what is recommended for my setup.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=BCI-95001


This fan kit comes with temp sensor and fan and spins about 2300 rpms. They say this should do the trick. I can’t go with a dual fan setup because radiator is too small. They also recommended a 160 thermostat. Wondering if going to a 160 thermostat would be an issue for my radiator?




$339 seems a little high, but then again I am no expert on electric fan kits.

Are there any better performing solutions that anyone else can recommend that are cheaper or the same price as this one? Possibly higher rpm or cfm fan in the same footprint. Also if 160 thermostats would help, can anyone recommend a specific brand? Supposedly Hi-Performance ones have a feature where if they fail, the fail in the OPEN position.

Regards,

Greg
 

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Had that same problem for a few years with my 350 and 454, had to get a 31x19x3 griffen rad, alum shroud, 160 stat, water pump impeller disc, and 18" 7 blade hd flex fan, i also run a 14" 7 blade haden electric pusher just in case. Its all about flow air and water, also surface area on the rad. I had a 180 in mine a month ago and my car ran 200 degrees then i changed to a 160 and now runs at 175 but i dont think it will do the trick on yours. I would try a hi flow 160 stat and make shure you have a fan shrould and get an impeller disk they will increase water flow up to 30%, it sounds like you need a bigger rad, because before i got the 31x19x3 griffen i had a 31x19x2.5 griffen and had issues until i ruined mine and had to start over and counldnt find a better rad and shroud so i ordered the biggest summit had. the shrould does all the work. If you get an electric try a camaro ls1 fan set up, i hear this is the best way to go, the tarus fans everyone talks about uses alot of amps. your fan combo should look like this for ideal air flow if its mechanical.
 

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I have a taurus fan. Not very pretty but will be more fan than you would ever need. Got two of them for 35 bucks.
 

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I have the 3x19x31 inch griffin and a flex-a-lite 15" fan. Never seen the heat rise at all. And they are a decent price. JR

 

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I run the ls1 fan but it would be too big in your case. the fan measures about 28 inches. fits nice on factory radiator. try the 160* stat.
 

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If you have the clearance between the radiator and the water pump, I would order an electic fan and shroud unit and I'm quite sure that it will solve your problem. I tried to go the cheaper route and ended up spending more than I would have, had I just bought the hole kit to begin with...

M2C::: The 160 degree T'stat should be just fine...You could have an air lock condition and this could be part of your overheating problem..

TooManyReels
 

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I like the Taurus fan. It comes with a shroud and will fit you 22 inch radiator. It has a lot more capacity and than any of the fans listed above. If you don't go the Taurus route, the BeCool recommendation is best. The others draw so little power, thay the probably don't pull much air through the radiator.

You can wire just the high speed and use it as a single speed fan
 

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If i may chime in, for best all round cooling with an electric fan (one speed, consistent CFM) you have to worry about two things: recirculation of hot air, and creating a airflow dam at highway speeds. Recirculation happens at stoplights when hot air in the engine bay find its way back to the front of the radiator for another trip causing thermal run away. At highway speeds your consistent CFM fan may be less that the speed of travel holding up airflow and as you go faster RPM increase and cooling demand increases. The solution is to have a fan shroud that covers 100% of the radiator preventing recirculation. This will increase the chance of damming the air at speed so relief flaps need to be installed. At speed the high pressure in front of the radiator opens the flaps and at stoplights the high pressure that build in the engine bay close the flaps preventing recirculation. Of course there are many combinations of thing that work, but if you have problems trying to eliminate the two problems above will help.
 

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I have the black magic as well. It pulls a TON of air (comparable to the Taurus fan). Good choice.

Kev
 

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I've been running the Taurus fan for about three years with no problems at all. Best of all, at my local Pick-N-Pull, it was only twenty bucks! You have to get the one out of a V-6 car though.
 

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Taurus Fan fan

I just finished up the installation and wiring for my 2 speed Taurus fan. Had to change to a shorty water pump and installed a 105 amp alternator (needed the upgrade anyway) and the shroud is a perfect fit for the radiator. I haven't driven it yet but I tested the fan after all wiring was complete and this thing moves some air!! I purchased off Ebay from a company that cleans, refurbs, and bench tests all of the fans (it looks like new) for around $100 shipped. I rounded up the necessary relays and parts online also at a cost of around $75. I wired mine with 3 relays (2 40A and 1 75A) using a schematic from another post here on this subject (seach Taurus fan).

I think it will be a much better fan that the Extreme for around half of the cost. I'll post some pics of it completed.
 

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I am going to go with the Black Magic 180 Extreme fan.

Since my battery is in the trunk, what is the preffered way of wiring this fan?
I have the BM fan and batt in the trunk. I use a terminal block on the firewall to distribute the juice to the headlights and fan. JR

Kinda hard to see, on the left. I can shoot a better pic if yer interested.
 
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