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Discussion Starter #1
It's finally time to get to the list of things that need fixing in my 76. The Master cylinder is leaking, the heater core is leaking, the cigarette lighter isn't working and the dome light isn't working so I finally got all the parts in and today is the day. Its off to the garage I go. Wish me luck. If your interested, I'll post pics of the damage.

Doug
 

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Discussion Starter #4
It's noon and I already hit my first bump. The master cylinder is in and brakes are bled but the brake dummy light is still on. It is one of two problems. Either the proportioning valve is stuck/bad or a rear slave cylinder is bad (or both). It feels like the front brakes lock up before the rear engages.
Any ideas
 

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please post pics:D the brake parts for these are really cheap at the local auto parts stores. make sure the wire that runs to your brake it good.
 

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It's noon and I already hit my first bump. The master cylinder is in and brakes are bled but the brake dummy light is still on. It is one of two problems. Either the proportioning valve is stuck/bad or a rear slave cylinder is bad (or both). It feels like the front brakes lock up before the rear engages.
Any ideas
You still have air in the rear lines or the adjustment (rears) is way out.
 

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What was wrong with your dome light? I'm asking because mine isn't working either...

Nice job on the master cylinder - my 76 didn't come with a brake booster. It's on my list of things to add, though!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I'm embarrassed to say that it was a fuse. I missed it the first time around. I was ready to tear out the side panel to go after the door switch but traced the lighter wire back to the fusebox and found the blown fuse...

As for the brakes, I'm convinced I have a slave Cylinder seized in the rear. I will replace it and go from there. When I bled the brakes, it didn't produce the flow it should have when I opened it up to bleed it.

It's amazing how every time I get into things, I find other things that need attention. The grommets on the rear springs are shot... I'll be busy all winter. :yes:

I didn't get to the heater yet but it looks pretty easy to do. Maybe Friday.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I assume this will be your first one :D Does your 76 have factory AC?
No A/C. According to the repair manual I get to the heater core from under the dash, not the engine compartment... I have done others but not the Nova. I'm sure there will be surprises though.

Instructions, in short:
  1. Remove the nuts from the air distributor duct studs on the firewall.
  2. Remove glove compartment and door assembly.
  3. From beneath the dash drill out the lower right hand distributor duct stud with a 1/4" drill.
  4. Pull the distributor duct from the firewall mounting. Remove the resistor wires. Lay the duct on the floor.
  5. Remove the core assembly from the duct.

Easy peasy lemon squeezie... :cool:
 

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The drilling of the bolt is not a good idea. The correct way is to remove the inner fender to access the nut. Once the head is drilled out that end of the box can not be secured to the firewall properly. It is also easier to pull the kick panel out as it covers part of the box and prevents it from sliding out.
 

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Hi:
I agree with Philip. Yet he suggestion to drill out the stud comes in the factory shop manual, and is witness to the real difficulty of the job. Even if you do drill out, you have to replace the drilled stud with a bolt, and you have to go under the front fender wheelhouse. Plus there is a small screw on the outboard side the heater fan shroud that has to accessed through the fender anyway. Check out some threads here to see pics of the firewall to understand this.

The problem I found when I did this job from the inside, is that the core tubes are factory angled into the engine compt. It would be easy to do if the tubes were straight. Yet the tubes are easy to damage by maneuvering (I broke one off and almost committed suicide). I believe the drilling out of the stud is made to prevent this.

You might certainly want to consider that unless you are a flexible midget, youd better remove the front seat/bench. This is specially necessary to be able to connect the heater switch cables and clips.

Another thing: If you plan to actually remove the engine side compartment heater cover (to paint, repair, etc) you will have to push down the wheelwell completely. I mean, remove all arc and upper bolts and let hang down completely.

Yet another thing. Buy in Ebay one of the heater box restoration kits. They are the same for 68-79. They have all the little rubber bits and pieces to do the job properly. Plus buy 3M Caulk strip at NAPA for sealing the box itself to the body.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Holy smokes. This just turned into a major job! If I need to take the engine compartment cover off, can I just replace it from that side? I will have to get into it and see what I've got first I guess. I ordered the core from Checker and they messed up the order. It should be here today. I will get into it tomorrow.
 

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Engine side cover does not need to be removed to change the heater core. Just the nuts that hold the under dash box in place.
True. The only need to remove the engine side cover is to change the fan motor or paint/restore.

This doesnt make any of inside job any easier...
 

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I also replaced the heater core & fan motor on my Phoenix last winter. Just need to remove inner fender. Mine is an AC car which are definitely harder than non-AC. One of the bolts is tough to get at if you have a V8--as the engine was in the way. In fact I cut it off and didn't re-use a bolt there when I re-assembled!
I remember doing this job on my wife's 75 Omega (inline 6 & non-ac) years ago ...I took hood and both inner & outer fender off but now know I just needed to remove the inner fender...the rest is done from inside. I did it in my driveway in the winter on a saturday. If yours is a non-ac and a 6 cylinder it shouldn't be too hard.
 
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