[Real McCoy]

I have run Hoosiers for many years. I have a friend who sells them and takes good care of me with cost and delivery. I want to try a stiff sidewall tire but Hoosier doesn't offer one in the size I need. GoodYear doesn't either but Mickey Thompson does. I start calling all my sources looking for my best cost and delivery. My buddy Billy owns a tirestore in town and tells me he can get a set, reasonable cost and delivery and he's 5 minutes from the house. I have another friend Dale who lives over an hour away and he too has a source that can get me tires at a decent cost but then I got to drive a long ways. Billy gets the tires and I go up Friday and they are not even a matching set of tires. They are the right size, part number but one is very old and they do not have the same looking sidewall markings. I ask him to call his source to get me a matched set. Yesterday his source says he can send another set Friday. I need tires sooner so I call Dale. He calls his source and they have sold the tires they had last week and have no more and don't know when they will get more. I call another friend who works for Doug Herberts and he says he has a matched set of tires so this morning I am going there to get those. Very frustrating dealing with the suppliers of M/T slicks. They seem to be under stocked and not real clever about matching tires up. M/T tires are good so if you find a good source for your tires you may want to keep their number close and support them. I have been told buying slicks has become a real pain the past few years with old stock and uncaring/unskilled suppliers. Now I have experienced it personally. Wish me luck today.......LOL. RM

 

[Lugnut79]

Sounds like an old math Problem I had on a test a long time ago. "If tire dealer 2 is 50 miles away and cost $400 a set and and tire dealer 1 is 5 miles away but cost $450 how many miles will you have to drive to save the expense of gas?"

 

[Real McCoy]

Not sure what answer you came up with but in reality it was a 99 mile trip that cost me that mileage plus $150. more than the Hoosiers I have been running. If they work better I still need to find a closer, cheaper source. NCHP was running radar on 85 in a couple spots but at least I didn't get caught speeding......LOL. RM

 

[JR]

Sounds like Billy got his from Dale:yes:

 

[Real McCoy]

Sounds like Billy got his from Dale:yes:

At first that was my thought but Dales supplier goes to races and he sold his set Sat at a race. Billys supplier got the mismatched stuff from Atlanta. The set I bought this morning came from M/T factory less than a week ago. RM

 

[chevyIIheavy]

well i know you dont like to wait ..... i now i dont i emailed m/t and asked if they could throw them on the truck for a race i was attending and low and behold they where there i run 255/60/15 et street drag radials my old ones where 235/60/15s and they wouldnt get sticky come to find out they where four years old :no: which means i need to get new tires soon :yes: only thing is my new tires where made this year ( manufacturing date ) and they maybe have 10 passes on them already. i usually get mine from jegs or summit or i will wait until m/t is going to be at the track for an event

 

[David_D.]

I have been getting my MT slicks from Jegs. Never had an issue, but I don't run a big tire, so I don't know if that is a factor. I would think Jeg's sells enough of them that their stock would be rather new.

 

[BobbyZ.]

About getting tires from Jeg's or Summit:

1) Probably won't get them much cheaper anywhere else.

2) You get them delivered to your door, usually in just a couple of days.

3) They sell enough tires that you can bet that you're going to get fresh ones. Not tires that have been sitting on the shelf somewhere for months or even years.

 

[Real McCoy]

About getting tires from Jeg's or Summit:

1) Probably won't get them much cheaper anywhere else.

2) You get them delivered to your door, usually in just a couple of days.

3) They sell enough tires that you can bet that you're going to get fresh ones. Not tires that have been sitting on the shelf somewhere for months or even years.

If you run a smaller popular size tire I agree they do pretty well but if you run a big tire that they don't sell many of they can and have sent old stock before. I get about 50 passes from a set of slicks. I have been on a tire deal for many years which is how I help to afford this hobby. I paid alot for these tires because I want to try the stiff sidewall. If they help me and I can't find a tire deal on them I will buy new 16 inch rims and run a different Hoosier tire with a different sidewall. Between the cost of getting to the races and the expenses of keeping the car up and competitive this hobby is totally costing too much money.

 

[1974nova]

I bought a set of fronts from either Jegs or Summit about 2 years ago because they were on sale. After having problems with them seating on my rims and then how bad the side walls leaked (one lasted a day befor it was on the rim) I called the manufacturer and They asked what size they were, I told themthe size and then I was told "We havent made that size in over a year and a half" So not all tires move quick so I would watch out when tires are on special from the big 2.

 

[65 Post]

Joe, get off your wallet and buy them from Harlow at Norwalk. He has a main store in Michigan, and one at the track. He'll treat you right and ship them to your door. His number is on NRP's website. Dave

 

[67 church]

RM, I'm sure that you've looked at all the sizes and ran all of the numbers. Here is some info. for others in the same situation. I usually run 31x14 hoosiers and the side walls would breake down with a ton of tread left in them. It was suggested to use a stiff side wall tire. I did just that, but the size that is needed to match me up to the original 31x14 is a 31.5x12.5w they measure the same in fact they are a smidge wider..............go figure.

Good luck with the M/T's and don't forget to post the results.

 

[Real McCoy]

The only stiff sidewall tire that is a big tire I can use is this M/T tire. Going to a 16 inch dia wheel is probably my best option but that is not cheap and I just bought these wheels last spring........LOL. Everyone is designing tires based on the 16 inch rim and all we got in the 15 inch rim is what we always have had. I'm going to test tomorrow and if I find a good motor tune up I'm going to spray it. That will tell me if the stiff sidewall is the answer to my problems. RM

 

[67 church]

...........16 inch, I hope that this does not spread like wild fire. Of course with less side wall it would probably have a little less flex?

 

[Denis the Menace]

Sooo... How did they do?

 

[Real McCoy]

They did fine I guess. I ran them at 7.5 PSI while I ran the Hoosiers at 8.5 PSI. No rim screws and they did not move on the rim. Best 60 ft was a 1.186 on a T&T track. The posse said they looked good too. I'll continue to play and see how they do with softer more aggressive shock and wheelie bar settings. RM

 

[Seattle_Mike]

Joe, did you get to try the nitrous out today? FYI, we ran 7.5# with our ET Streets on Yvonne's Nova...60's were right where you are at with best at 1.13.

 

[Real McCoy]

I sent you an e mail Mike. I tried the NOS on two passes but the timers or something are not working right under race conditions. They check fine in the pits but don't work on the track. I'll be working on that this week. RM

 

[thetpro1]

Here is an easy solution to your problem that I swear by.
My super gas s-10, runs 14.5x 32x 15, It run a best of 9.32 @ 143 mph.
I usually run super streetm wanted to go s/g but the best reaction time I could get out of it on a 5 tenths pro tree in Chicago was a .010 with all the numbers in my delay box taken out. This is a great nimber for 5 tenths tree, but I would never be able to cut a number on a s/g 4 tenths.
I had a conversation with Jim Hughes (owner of HUGHS transmissions). This guy is a touring super gas and super comp racer. I asked him what the problem was and the first thing he ask was,," how many rim screws do you run? Probably 8? correct?" I answered yes. He said that was why. he pointed to 4 of his cars, 2 S/C dragsters and 2 S/G vettes. All top money cars. 2 of them had beadlocks, the other 2 had 16 rim screws.
He made a good point. Look at any photo of your car leaving the line, the wrinkles all come directly from the screws. He said sidewalls are loose, and you are leaving on them. even though my car does not have an issue with spinning, (it never does). I am still leaving on the side walls.
I doubled the amount of rim screws, and LITERALLY had to ADD 40 numbers to my delay box. The car REACTED quicker. Again, the CAR reacted quicker, not me.
Cheap fix. I thought for sure he was going to tell me I needed one of his converters or trans, but instead I got cheap advice that truely worked.

 

[Real McCoy]

My car can go .020 red easy on a 4/10s tree with no screws. I ran rim screws on my old wheels and it went red with the screws. My friend Dale has 16 inch bead locks as well as 15 inch rims with no screws. He has swapped tires and wheels around and sees no real difference on his car which is a bracket car but the box numbers stay the same pretty much. I'd guess every car is different. If you didn't know this, a delay box with no time in it still delays the release compared to a direct wired brake. I have fixed some issues in some cars by wiring the brake direct. Just a thought in case you didn't know that. RM

I just unloaded the car and happened to check the rim marks and the tire has moved on the rim contrary to my last post. Maybe on the last pass? I'll continue to monitor that.