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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, its a Holley 650 HP custom built for my setup without the rear idle screws (flows 730). I mounted it with a 1/2 inch plastic carb spacer to give me some more room under the fuel line to the intake. I had it all set and drove it a few times then noticed the throttle was sticking when it returned to idle most of the time. If you blip it it normally came down. As some time went on it got worst. So, I put it in the garage and had some dinner. Came down a few hours later, started her up and it was fine, sat there :confused:.... As it warmed up, the problem started to come back. So, I look around and checked a few things and did not see anything wrong. So, I figured, let me pull this thing off and take a closer look.. As I take off the four bolts and start to lift off the carb, one mounting ear falls off :eek::mad:

Now I'm totally upset... So, after a few hours of cool down (I'm italian) I start thinking about how I should approach this. The past year I have had some bumps in the road with carbs. So, after a few hours and talking to a buddy of mine (who by the way tries to talk me into selling it for an eddy), I called summit and ordered a new bullet throttle plate... Sigh, this better be the last time my hands touch this carb for a while.

Any of you guys ever see this happen??
 

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The only ones I have ever saw broken were over tightened. You don't seem like the kind of person that would do that. I wonder is it was cracked when you got it?
 

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The only time I ever had one break was when I overtightened it. Too many gaskets and spacers will let the base be too soggy so it gets easy to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I'm a nut when it comes to torquing things and not over tightening it (with the exception of valve covers :eek:).. I have a feeling that the 1/2 spacer I had on there may have caused it. Not sure but, its the only thing I can think of. It goes without saying, that spacer is out of there for sure. The only thing I get out of this other then spending another $150 is, a great bullet bottom plate..
 

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I assume you mean BILLET base plate--that's the reason they make those. The crap they make standard baseplates from is notorious for breaking ears.
I've never done it, but I've seen plenty. That was one of main selling points of the first BG carbs; no more broken baseplates!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I assume you mean BILLET base plate--that's the reason they make those. The crap they make standard baseplates from is notorious for breaking ears.
I've never done it, but I've seen plenty. That was one of main selling points of the first BG carbs; no more broken baseplates!
Yes, I mean billet... I guess I had my .357 in mind :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Check your spacer to make sure it is true and flat, as this could be what caused the breakage from tightening as well as a baseplate vacuum leak and not a sticking throttle shaft. JMO
Yeah, I thought about that. I did check it and it looked to be fine. But, it made out of phenolic or something like that and I'll bet it contributed to the issue.
 

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I have had several phenolic spacers warp. I have used a straight edge and trued them up, but I never broke any ears off because of it. Usually it is from over torquing unless you get one with a defect or weak spot from the factory. That will definitely cause your sticking problem though.
Good luck, I'd say the new baseplate will fix your problem.
 

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Check your spacer to make sure it is true and flat, as this could be what caused the breakage from tightening as well as a baseplate vacuum leak and not a sticking throttle shaft. JMO
I had a Summit brand 1" phenolic (plastic) spacer, the previous owner of the engine had it on the car and it warped, somewhere along the line I put my carb on it and the darn thing snapped the ear with very LITTLE pressure. It turned out that there was a recall on that spacer and they paid for half of the billet baseplate. It looked flat but wasn't even close when using a straight edge.
 
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