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Discussion Starter #1
I started my new motor today and it had the loudest squiky sound. I noticed that the balancer was not in all the way. About a 1/4 off. Could this have caused such sound?
 

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How do you know the balancer is 1/4" out? Did you install it or someone else and how was it installed?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I installed it but you can tell is out a quarter inch because you could see the dark mark created by the exposure outside the seal.
My #1 question is should the crank have no play at all once installed properly or a slightly movement must remain at all time. What I mean is that should the crank be solid front to back once installed. Right now I can hold the balancer and push front and back and have a slight play (very minor of about an 1/3".
If I install that balancer correctly what should I expect. No movement period.
 

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I installed it but you can tell is out a quarter inch because you could see the dark mark created by the exposure outside the seal.
My #1 question is should the crank have no play at all once installed properly or a slightly movement must remain at all time. What I mean is that should the crank be solid front to back once installed. Right now I can hold the balancer and push front and back and have a slight play (very minor of about an 1/3".
If I install that balancer correctly what should I expect. No movement period.
The crank should have very little end play in the thousanths of an inch. The balancer should be installed until it bottoms against the bottom timing gear.

Did someone put the thrust bearing in the back of the block like it is supposed to be on a Chevy? On a Ford it goes in the middle of the block.

You most likely will not feel any end play if the motor is right.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok look. This may give you guys a better idea of what I did. I bought this motor out of a gmc C3500 1988 truck. It is a four bolt main block.
I send it to be bore .30 over. Everything was installed by the machine shop on the block only.(pistons, bearings, etc.
I installed all the parts from the original motor back in such as damper, alternator, clutch fan, water pump, etc. I bought new set of aluminum brackets for alternator and power steering.
Cam/lifter kit is:
Chevy 262-400 1957-85 Camshaft & Lifter Kits

Intake Exhaust
Advertised Duration 292° 292°
Duration @ .050" 234° 234°
Valve Lift w/ 1.5 Rocker Arms 0.488 0.488
Valve Lift @ Cam 0.325 0.325
Max Lift Angle 109° 119°
Lobe Separation 114°
Cam Timing @ .050" - Opens 8° ATDC 56° BBDC
Cam Timing @ .050" - Closes 46° ABDC -8° BTDC

Motor was running while on the truck. Now suddenly is making a loud grinding noise while spinning at idle.
I cant tell if it is in fact that balancer is not all the way and is allowing more play in the crank shaft or it could be the headers rubbing on the power steering box. Remember that I had a 307 so the block is slightly smaller right or is it the same all around.

The noise sounds right at front of the car but it could be something with the flexplate. That is why I am asking if the balancer is not all the way could thic affect the flexplate as well.
I need to find this problem soon
 

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Well the balancer fits tight and even if it's not on all the way, you wouldn't be able to move it back and forth. If you can move the balancer back and forth(unless someone honed it for a slip fit which I doubt it) then it sounds like you are moving the crank in and out which is a no-no. Varify which one is moving and if it's the crank then I would assume your machine shop thinks it's a Ford and put the thrust bearing in the middle.

If the converter is not in right and the engine was ran long enough you could have damaged the thrust bearing among other things such as the tranny pump.

Externally your motor is the same dimensions as the 307 was, but your aluminum heads may have moved the headers up a bit.

The Shaft End-Play for a 350 is: .003-.011....Beginning in 1970, it was reduced to: .002-.006
 

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Do you have a front sway bar?

My sway bar wasn't tightened down all the way on one side and it was rubbing on my balancer, making a bad noise.

Worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yes I have a sway bar but non of this has being touched. Let me ask you one thing. The block was set for manual tranny th400. There was this thing inside the hole where converter sits inside the block which I did not remove however converter is sitting proper since I did not move it much to put bolts. Could that be causing a problem?
 

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rigidone;1944921 said:
Serious? You have bigger problems than a noise. Put the tools down
give the guy a chance man...everyone has to learn sometime....Im sure you had to learn sometime:confused: its his motor...he can do what he wants....we are all here to help each other
 

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Yes I have a sway bar but non of this has being touched. Let me ask you one thing. The block was set for manual tranny th400. There was this thing inside the hole where converter sits inside the block which I did not remove however converter is sitting proper since I did not move it much to put bolts. Could that be causing a problem?
If it had a manual behind that crank then it could still have the pilot bearing in it that you speak of. It is in the small hole behind where the torque converter goes in the back of the crank and won't hurt anything.

If you could spin the converter by hand and only had to mover it an 1/8" back or so then all that sounds right.

Back to the crankshaft - If you can physically move the crank in and out a noticeable amount then the motor needs to come out and checked. Sorry not what you want to here, but do what you got to do and make it right.
 

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<<Yes I have a sway bar but non of this has being touched. Let me ask you one thing. The block was set for manual tranny th400. There was this thing inside the hole where converter sits inside the block which I did not remove however converter is sitting proper since I did not move it much to put bolts. Could that be causing a problem? >>

OK I'll take a stab at this. A TH400 is an automatic trans not a manual. That thing in the hole could be the throwout bearing fork? don't quite know how you got the automatic on with a bell housing. I know show us some pics of the area in question. That'll help.
-Pat R
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Here is what I am going to do. I will buy the tool to install the balancer properly. I will then install the rest of the front and start the motor. I will then record a video if noise still prevails. Lets see.
 

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Serious? You have bigger problems than a noise. Put the tools down
GEEEZ, I HOPE NOBODY WAS LIKE THAT TO YOU WHEN YOU STARTED OUT!

TRY THIS

give the guy a chance man...everyone has to learn sometime....Im sure you had to learn sometime:confused: its his motor...he can do what he wants....we are all here to help each other
:yes::yes::yes::thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok guys so I rented the balancer installer tool and installed the balancer in place. I removed the driver side header and banged it just enough to clear steering box. Noise continues but now that I am more clear on what I am doing I am realizing the noise is somewhere around the flexplate/converter. The questions is what could it be. I went under motor with all sorts of light and can seem to find any grinding spots or anything of that sort.
I am lost.
 

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Just a suggestion. after running it, check the oil in the sunlight, put some on your finger tip. Little sparkles = internal problem. perfectly clear = good chance everything is ok in the engine
 

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Chui1980, I feel your pain on this.

I want to aplogize to all about the length of my posts. I tend to ramble and my thoughts come and go, I'm an old fart and have to keep on point or I lose my direction horribly...

I'm coming into this late in the game and there have been lots of great suggestions.

Just to get my feet wet, you say you can move the crank back and forth about 1/3". That's .333" and that's a lot of movement.

As someone else pointed out for crank endplay, all you should have is about the thickness of 2 sheets of printer paper. You should "barely" be able to feel this and you may even have to use a pry bar to move the crank front to rear when in a car.

The harmonic balancer is, like others have said, is pressed onto the crank until it bottoms out. When installed correctly and bottom out, it does NOT limit the front to rear movement of the crank. So the harmonic balancer now should still not limit the crank from moving on you. Again if it's still moving that much, .333" approximately, you do have an internal motor setup issue that will need to be taken care of.

With the information that others have given and my little ditty above, the noise you have will probably go away when the crank endplay is taken care of.

So trying to find out the noise at this point is not a priority, the crank endplay should be the new priority.

Let me paint a picture for you.

Imagine all the rods mounted on the rod journals with their appropriate side clearances all set. They're designed to rotate around with the crank, but in a single plane, or place specific to crank location with the correct endplay. Now start the motor and the crank is moving back and forth front to rear. The rods are now put under a side load that they were never designed to handle. Also when the crank walks, the timing chain is now way out of alignment and rubbing the sides of the gears as well as putting a lot of strain on the cam sprocket. None of this is a good thing to have.

Again, if the crank is "truly" moving what you have indicated it is, if you fix the crank issue the noise will go away.

IF the crank is not moving and running correctly, there could be an issue with the starter bendix hanging up and clicking on the flex plate. They do make a lot of noise when that happens. Or as someone has said, the plastic or metal lower trans/converter inspection pan. These can catch and bend back and rub on the flexplate very easily.

I doubt that it's the converter as they usually have about 1/4" to 3/8" of extra engagement of the front pump with the converter neck slots. So the converter should not be hitting anything. This of course is considering that when you installed the trans to the block that the converter was not attached to the flexplate at the time. Normally the trans to block is done and then the converter is pulled forward to the flexplate and bolted up at that time. This prevents the pump and converter from being crushed together which could ruin the trans front pump if you were not extremely lucking sliding it all together.

Bottom line, if the crank still moves as much as you say, the motor should come out to be inspected and corrected. If the crank does not move only the two sheets of paper back and forth, you may have an inspection cover issue or starter bendix hanging up and clipping the ring gear on the flexplate.

Good luck with the noise and I hope it something in the trans starter area that you can fix with very little permanent issues.
 

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Bottom line, if the crank still moves as much as you say, the motor should come out to be inspected and corrected.
Yes sir, this is what we need to know before any more info.

Can you still move the crank back and forth? If so the flange of the crank in the rear could have made contact with the block, etc..
 
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