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Looks good . . . . . . . . . . . . . . FEELS GOOD ............ . . . . . . don't it . Move on to th' next area . . .
nice job .
 
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Discussion Starter #162
Before I forget...These things are phenomenal! So much so, I had to share. Wish I had been using these from the beginning. I used the 36 grit 2” disc to dress down the plug welds on that cowl and it made short work of it. Like 1/2 the time of the old 2” 40 grit chicom flap discs. Ive only used 1 disc and it still looks new! Well worth the extra $ IMO.




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I'm pretty sure those are the same ones I have and I only use when I want to shave some metal down quick because those things eat through metal like crazy!
Cowl looks great

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33380 (shown above ) = 80 grit 2"
33377 = 36+ 2 "
33389 = 36+ 3"
Amaozon has pretty much every size availabel
 

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I do have a can of that. I'm thinking I'll use some of it for the channel above the trunk lid hinges that Ramportin1 has been working on.
Note to self. when running the tube threw the various frame channels, check above your head to see if there is an opening before running the tube TOWARDS yourself. Cost: one pair of safety glasses, and a bunch of scrubbing my face and forehead before I went back in the house....this stuff dries quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #166
Note to self. when running the tube threw the various frame channels, check above your head to see if there is an opening before running the tube TOWARDS yourself. Cost: one pair of safety glasses, and a bunch of scrubbing my face and forehead before I went back in the house....this stuff dries quick.
Good advise! Glad you had your glasses on. That could have been much worse.


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Discussion Starter #167
Will this diy work? Posting this before I try it for laughs. I’m like 50% confident it will work...maybe.

Have to seam seal inside the cowl now. Well, I want to anyways. I went over all my spot weld burns with EWRE to seal up the metal. Now I’m going to use (try anyways) a polyethylene extension on my seam seal cartridge so I can reach in there.






I hope it works!


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Discussion Starter #169
Got about 75% through the bead before the clamp failed. It was at a more accessible spot luckily. Just finished with an acid brush. Had a problem in that same spot where the epoxy went off and it got a little messy. Anyways...it’s done.







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Discussion Starter #170
Decided to tackle my fuel cell install next. Have spent a great deal of time researching this topic and thinking about how to get it done. This is going to sound impossible to believe but I have really struggled to find good information. Ultimately, I consulted 2020 NHRA rule book and then decided on something slightly less. They call out a 1.25" tube cage and I decided to use 1" tube. I'm not positive that my installation is even what they are referring to when they call out 1.25" tube. Their verbiage is "when the tank is installed outside the body/frame". I don't know if that's what I'm about to do. It's not technically outside the body because i'm dropping the trunk floor and panning it in. It's definitely not outside the frame, or maybe it is if it's nearly below the frame? It's within the perimeter of the frame anyways. I'm not planning on racing this car competitively but would enjoy the ability to attend an autocross event or maybe test & tune at the track. I've been updating an old post of mine on the topic but haven't gotten any play on it so, I have to move forward. I made a drawing to work from. I may have to adjust dimensions but at least it's a starting point. I'm not thrilled about the weight, that's for sure. 75# worth of steel! Seems heavy but I guess that's what it takes.

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I think you are going way overkill on the steel. I'd drop it between the frame rails in sheetmetal pan. Mine has a couple 1" tubes that run under the cell front to back on either side of the dropped sump but I don't think they are necessary. It looks like you were looking at Pro Mod regulations.

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Discussion Starter #172
Went back through the NHRA rule book and I see what you mean on the plastic fuel cell. Thank you xxdabroxx for pointing that out. I revised my drawing and shed about 24# off the frame. If I went with 24ga sheet metal instead of 20ga, I could drop another 7#. Much less fab work but will need to have my sheet metal work on point now.

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Discussion Starter #174
I have the fuel cell cage tacked up and mocked into the car. The top hoop is too big to go through the rear frame rails. I can either top mount it, or bottom mount it. The fuel cell itself fits through the frame rails. To bottom mount it, it will drop 5” from where it is mocked into place now. As it sits, the bottom of the cell lines up with the bottom of the lower rear quarters. From a ride/handling standpoint, is it worth dropping the cell another 5” to lower the center of gravity or should I just install it where it is? I feel like I want to leave it high unless it’s a massive advantage to mount it low.








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in your 3rd picture . . . . mounted in th' trunk . . . . that's my vote ! .

I like it . . . . . (y)

later . . . jim
 
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Looks good man! I think it sits perfectly as is but I'm not a pro drag racer so idk if it would be better to lower it more. But nice work on everything so far its all looking good

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Discussion Starter #177
Looks good man! I think it sits perfectly as is but I'm not a pro drag racer so idk if it would be better to lower it more. But nice work on everything so far its all looking good

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The only reason this car would ever see a drag strip is out of pure curiosity. I just want it to handle on the street as good as I can possibly make it. I’d be more interested in autox or road track stuff, if I was going to compete. I did some searching last night and it seems to be the consensus that the lower, the better. I’m going to mock it up from underneath and have a look. I think it will be ok as far as ride height but it will be dangerously close to the lowest chassis component, apart from the axle, to the ground. I think it will be right at or slightly lower than that pan-hard frame down-tube.


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The only reason this car would ever see a drag strip is out of pure curiosity. I just want it to handle on the street as good as I can possibly make it. I’d be more interested in autox or road track stuff, if I was going to compete. I did some searching last night and it seems to be the consensus that the lower, the better. I’m going to mock it up from underneath and have a look. I think it will be ok as far as ride height but it will be dangerously close to the lowest chassis component, apart from the axle, to the ground. I think it will be right at or slightly lower than that pan-hard frame down-tube.


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O i guess I just assumed, and you know what they say about that lol.

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Discussion Starter #179
I mocked it up from underneath. I can get it maybe 1” higher but it really looks just too low. I think I’ll opt for the higher position just to be on the safe side. I could get the top of the tank level with the original trunk floor with some surgery and mods to the support frame but I’m not sure it would be worth all the trouble.






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