Chevy Nova Forum banner

141 - 160 of 201 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,563 Posts
"Details" = (y) . . . . . . . Looking good .

jim
 
  • Like
Reactions: kimmer71

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #143
Don’t know why, but I decided to get rid of the oem fiberboard roof liner next. The rotisserie saves the day again. The best way I found to do this, was the remove the fiber board, gently, with paint scraper then address the glue with a razor scraper. I have a multi-tool I’ve used one since I bought it 3 years ago, which worked very well. Haven’t figured out what I’m going to put back on the roof yet, apart from some epoxy primer.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Premium Member
72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
Joined
·
1,285 Posts
I wish I would have put my new headliner in while I was on the rotisserie. I cleaned the metal and treated but should of kept going with the liner. Oh well, you will hear me cussing later. That fiberboard you have is a lot different than my 72 unless mine had deteriorated so bad it looked different. Mine was more like some crappy very loose fiber cardboard that was literally crumbling and falling down on me. The rust was pretty bad from condensation and there was some questionable pitting. Your inner roof looks really good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #145
I wish I would have put my new headliner in while I was on the rotisserie. I cleaned the metal and treated but should of kept going with the liner. Oh well, you will hear me cussing later. That fiberboard you have is a lot different than my 72 unless mine had deteriorated so bad it looked different. Mine was more like some crappy very loose fiber cardboard that was literally crumbling and falling down on me. The rust was pretty bad from condensation and there was some questionable pitting. Your inner roof looks really good.
Yes, I was pleasantly surprised by the condition of the metal. I thought it was cardboard myself till I started scraping it. I think it’s some type of fiberglass?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
My cardboard was more like what J mark said, there was no glue it was just loose, I used a razor to cut chunks out and they would just fall out. Used a coat hanger and shop vac to suck it out from where it's smashed in between the structure

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #147
I’m considering the Boom-Mat thermal acoustic lining to replace the roof liner. The only possible issue is the thickness. It’s 3/4” thick and that seems like it may interfere with the headliner. Other than that, looks like a good fit. I like that it’s lightweight and foil faced.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
Hmmm....trying to think what issues you may encounter with this 3/4" product under a headliner but nothing jumps-out other than potential off-gassing under the summer sun where it is intended for exterior applications. As long as you apply the sheets sparingly you should be able to stay clear of the obvious potential pinch points - i.e. dome light, bow mounting clips, etc.

You likely already know but these sound deadning products are intended to be applied strategically rather than full coverage. In the automotive world, the idea behind their design is to reduce harmonics produced across large panels as they flex through vibration caused by sound waves or physical force. They really don't 'absorb' sound as much as they stop the flex so they don't have to be 'thick' to be effective. I would think to use thickness as the prime driver for noise reduction, the panels would need to be 6 - 12", as in a recording studio sound room.
Meanwhile, the roof as a large panel is perfect for sound deadening materials. But I'm far off-track here.

Where it is your money and your ride, you do what works for you. However as a suggestion, I used one of the typical products offered & intended for automotive interior sound proofing (pick a brand, any brand, they're really all the same for the most part) and covered the larger open panel spaces. Then covered the entire roof panel with an inexpensive 1/4" aluminum foil heat shielding product (Home Depot) adhered with 3M Headliner Adhesive. There was no issues whatsoever with pinch points mentioned above and, as mentioned in another thread, the roof is quiet inside and a solid thud when knocked outside.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #152
I wanted to put a solid coat of something in the “kidneys” of the cowl so I opted for the EW Rust Encapsulator since I could apply it with a brush. That stuff is worse smelling than the epoxy seam sealer! I have some urethane seam sealer and I’m wondering if I should wrestle with trying to get that stuff down in there on my repairs and body seams. It is after all, a wet area.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,003 Posts
I have had good results with EW internal frame coating, for the hard to get to places. I squirt brake cleaner thru the nozzle and hose after each use.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #154
I have had good results with EW internal frame coating, for the hard to get to places. I squirt brake cleaner thru the nozzle and hose after each use.
I do have a can of that. I'm thinking I'll use some of it for the channel above the trunk lid hinges that Ramportin1 has been working on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
353 Posts
Discussion Starter #159
Thanks Guys! Hopefully be welding that ******* (cowl cover) back on today. Wow...is all I can say. I can’t believe how much work I’ve had to put into that section of the car...the cowl.

I’ll be so happy to move on to the next task. Big epoxy primer spray out looming...I think. May try to push it into the fall for cooler weather. Plenty of little “projects” I can do in the meantime.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
141 - 160 of 201 Posts
Top