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86 x pro stock Jerry Haas Camaro 08 gmc 3500 hd diesel dually.
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Thanks for the encouragement. Here are some pics of the front subframe repairs i did. I tried to post them earlier this morning but tapatalk flaked out. Lets see if i can get them in here.

Had to cut out the rusted section and rebuild the structure. Beefed it up quite a bit, used 3/16” steel for the new structure. Had to work it in sections being careful to keep the control arm mounting dimensions stable. This was a challenging puzzle. I have many more pics of the process. I also stitch welded the frame rails, blasted the rest of it and primed it.




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Amazing work.
 

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1972 Nova
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Yeah, possibly. Im going to cut some paper templates and tape them on to see what it looks like then adjust accordingly. I may have to but i also dont want to exaggerate the already high front lip. At least this way, it’s moving in the right direction, down. I’m hoping it isn’t so “in your face” crazy looking with some paper sheathing. I do think ill be trimming the lip down more and possibly the fender cut up more. Its just going to be yet another part of this car that consumes hours and hours. Then I get to do it all again…wa-hoo.
To keep from exaggerating the lip, you might need to cut higher to have a less obvious/drastic tie in. Should make it more subtle and give you a little more room. You could get a little bit taller bump stop to keep the suspension out of the lip as well.
Thats a good idea! Thanks J Mark. I may have to try that.

It baffles me how i see people posting they have 265 and 275 series tires on these cars. I can only assume they have to run a huge gap between the tire and the fender. I mean like tall ride height in the front, plus deal with tire rub. As you can see, I'm more than maxed out with a 245x45 tire on a 17x8 wheel.
I think a lot of those guys are running different subframes, or suspension. RideTech's TruTurn system says you can run a 10" wide wheel with 275 tires, but I'm not sure if that's for the Nova or Camaro, as Camaro guys can run wider wheels/tires normally than the Nova I believe.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #846 ·
2.5" at full lock / full compression. What would it be at full lock / ride height?

I would think it would be extremely rare to be at full lock / full compression unless your doing auto-cross and really pushing the limits.
Im with you on this. Full lock is extreme turn angle. And it only with the wheel turned outward. It seems like you would only get into this region in a parking lot. Full compression at this angle feels like 1 in a million chance of happening, even during hard driving, because of the weight is going to be on the other side of the car. The only thing that makes me think it could happen is the sway bar pulling it up into that region, but still, at full lock turn? I may post a question up on FB and see what kind of abuse I can solicit from one or more of the groups. 😁

as far as normal ride height, 2” spacer would suffice I think.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #847 ·
I’ve been tinkering around this fender for days trying to figure out how to attack this project. Fiberglass even entered my mind at one point. Plus, pulling that lip out that far has been bugging me. Its just too extreme with it out far enough to completely clear the tire. I pulled the lip back 1/2” and fixed it with 3 tabs from the inner wheel well tabs on the inside. This way I can trim down the rip cut very close to the vertical lip. I’m going to try to shape some metal to match the profile of the rear wheel flare. It will be larger in proportion obviously, but i think its the best shot I have at blending the fender into the car, as naturally appearing as is possible, given the situation. The front marker lights will be an obstacle. Not sure how ill deal with that yet. Either fill it in or make some cut/outs around it possibly. Im going to need an english wheel at a minimum to make these pieces. Thinking a small benchtop unit at this point. Im sure ill need some vice mounted dollys too. Next, ill get the other fender to the same place, and make all the formed pieces in succession, alternating sides. Ill try to make 2 pieces per side that meet in the center. Thats the beast plan Ive been able to form so far.

Hood Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Tire
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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1,664 Posts
Discussion Starter · #853 ·
He's some kind of good. At the "wavy" part, I'd have thrown it in the trash.
I know. It goes against my current experience level to actually make buckles. He (Lazze) uses a stretcher 1st, and then a shrinker after he tips the flange. When he stretches the inner radius, he uses a deep throat stretcher, which I also do not have. I believe the 1st video I posted, the non narrated, unknown metal wizard used the wheel more for the stretching and the stretcher less. He was just wheeling short passes perpendicular to the curve. In my case, i just want the filler piece, without the lip if possible. The question is, will it be possible for me to arrive at the inner radius that matches the existing wheel arch lip? In both videos, they actually made the wheel lip with a bead roller and tipping die.

I'm on the hunt for a reasonable english wheel currently. I found a super cheap bench top model on amazon, like $130! Im certain its junk, but I can’t help but wonder if it will get me through this, or if I need to drop $400 up to $1000+ on a better quality model. I simply don't have room for a large model and I think a smaller unit will work for me in this case. Woodward Fab has a small unit (Lil Wheelie) that looks decent, but their site says its unavailable until June!

Composite material Machine Auto part Font Metal
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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1,664 Posts
Discussion Starter · #854 ·
Looks pretty involved.
Yes it does. The more I've worked on and researched this task, the more anxious I've gotten about it. I was considering new fenders to do this but now, all that money is going towards new tools it appears.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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1,664 Posts
Discussion Starter · #855 ·
Have to give a shout-out here...

You called it @sudden_impulse !

To keep from exaggerating the lip, you might need to cut higher to have a less obvious/drastic tie in. Should make it more subtle and give you a little more room. You could get a little bit taller bump stop to keep the suspension out of the lip as well.
I pulled the fender back in 1/2" and will increase the bump stop size (again), although I'm not exactly sure how yet. Possibly a 1/4" spacer underneath the 2" stop that's there. Unless I can find a 2.25" control arm bump. I don't remember coming across any of those. The CPP LCA just has a raised plate (without the locating pin hole!) That has less than 1/2' of clearance for the bolt/nut to live. In other words, I'm buying new bump stops regardless of how I raise them. the studs are now too short since I had to cut them. I do worry slightly about decreasing the useful travel of the suspension with this though. IIRC, 1/4" travel at the bump equaled 1" of travel at the wheel, roughly.

Anyways, thanks for the tip!
 

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4,780 Posts
I know. It goes against my current experience level to actually make buckles. He (Lazze) uses a stretcher 1st, and then a shrinker after he tips the flange. When he stretches the inner radius, he uses a deep throat stretcher, which I also do not have. I believe the 1st video I posted, the non narrated, unknown metal wizard used the wheel more for the stretching and the stretcher less. He was just wheeling short passes perpendicular to the curve. In my case, i just want the filler piece, without the lip if possible. The question is, will it be possible for me to arrive at the inner radius that matches the existing wheel arch lip? In both videos, they actually made the wheel lip with a bead roller and tipping die.

I'm on the hunt for a reasonable english wheel currently. I found a super cheap bench top model on amazon, like $130! Im certain its junk, but I can’t help but wonder if it will get me through this, or if I need to drop $400 up to $1000+ on a better quality model. I simply don't have room for a large model and I think a smaller unit will work for me in this case. Woodward Fab has a small unit (Lil Wheelie) that looks decent, but their site says its unavailable until June!

View attachment 454287
While yes, the wheel above is not the highest quality, it'll get the job done in a pinch (pun intended, watch your thumbs!!). You will need to construct a mount or a foot on a pedestal stand for it so you have the ability to work long parts in the correct direction, mounting it to a bench will limit your ability to properly work metal...The process is essentially mashing the metal between two hard surfaces. One being a convex curve and the other flat, the metal on the convex side will be thinned and create pressure in the molecules of the metal on one side so it curves by moving those molecules on that side therefore creating a longer distance. It's not like you're using it in a shop on a daily basis to make a living for fabrication, you'll maybe use it once or twice a year, but it'll be a handy addition to the shop and will get what you need done in short order. May I suggest you practice a LOT on scrap long before you start messing with vital parts you cannot make by hand without great difficulty.... :) Go for it! NOTE: Harbor Freight carries one that's a bit better... and a bit more too... comes with the stand though:

eBay has one or fifty:

Might contact the seller to see if they have them in stock though... Cheap enough to use once...
 

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1972 Nova
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948 Posts
Have to give a shout-out here...

You called it @sudden_impulse !



I pulled the fender back in 1/2" and will increase the bump stop size (again), although I'm not exactly sure how yet. Possibly a 1/4" spacer underneath the 2" stop that's there. Unless I can find a 2.25" control arm bump. I don't remember coming across any of those. The CPP LCA just has a raised plate (without the locating pin hole!) That has less than 1/2' of clearance for the bolt/nut to live. In other words, I'm buying new bump stops regardless of how I raise them. the studs are now too short since I had to cut them. I do worry slightly about decreasing the useful travel of the suspension with this though. IIRC, 1/4" travel at the bump equaled 1" of travel at the wheel, roughly.

Anyways, thanks for the tip!
How much travel do you think you'll have? Is it possible to raise your ride height slightly to keep the travel? I know it won't look as cool, but sometimes you have to work around a part as a compromise (wheels are that part 90% of the time with a Nova it seems :LOL: ).
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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1,664 Posts
Discussion Starter · #858 ·
How much travel do you think you'll have? Is it possible to raise your ride height slightly to keep the travel? I know it won't look as cool, but sometimes you have to work around a part as a compromise (wheels are that part 90% of the time with a Nova it seems :LOL: ).
Yep. I thought I was Mr. Smart with getting the rear all tucked and sorted only to be foiled by the front. It will be what it will be and I may have to go up a bit more on ride. It's a slippery slope though, because my shocks are all dialed in with bump on the rear. I'm pretty sure I already went up 1 inch. May wind up with taller bumps in the rear too. Honestly, I'm hoping I can squeeze by with just "adjusting" the front. Only the "sands of time" will tell but I'm not holding my breath. I'm thinking about starting a new thread on this particular endeavor. It seems like useful stuff and it will be hard to search buried in my 43 page build thread.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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1,664 Posts
Discussion Starter · #859 ·
While yes, the wheel above is not the highest quality, it'll get the job done in a pinch (pun intended, watch your thumbs!!). You will need to construct a mount or a foot on a pedestal stand for it so you have the ability to work long parts in the correct direction, mounting it to a bench will limit your ability to properly work metal...The process is essentially mashing the metal between two hard surfaces. One being a convex curve and the other flat, the metal on the convex side will be thinned and create pressure in the molecules of the metal on one side so it curves by moving those molecules on that side therefore creating a longer distance. It's not like you're using it in a shop on a daily basis to make a living for fabrication, you'll maybe use it once or twice a year, but it'll be a handy addition to the shop and will get what you need done in short order. May I suggest you practice a LOT on scrap long before you start messing with vital parts you cannot make by hand without great difficulty.... :) Go for it! NOTE: Harbor Freight carries one that's a bit better... and a bit more too... comes with the stand though:

eBay has one or fifty:

Might contact the seller to see if they have them in stock though... Cheap enough to use once...
I'm thinking this:
Font Machine Auto part Parallel Engineering


And just maybe, but hopefully don't need...

Automotive tire Automotive lighting Font Automotive wheel system Rim


And yes, I'll have to re-organize my garage. My poor tube bender already got evicted to the shed, which is a travesty. Although, that's better than the engine hoist and stand have it currently.
 

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I'm thinking this:
View attachment 454292

And just maybe, but hopefully don't need...

View attachment 454293

And yes, I'll have to re-organize my garage. My poor tube bender already got evicted to the shed, which is a travesty. Although, that's better than the engine hoist and stand have it currently.
Looked at that one. I have one of their welding tables and for the $, it's awesome for my limited fab. Good deal on that wheel, the dies cost almost as much as the damn wheel! Lol. Why I feel the eBay generic is the better deal... For the limited use it'll see.
 
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