My 74 build progress
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Nice. What about some closed foam in black over the yellow. Everything else is top shelf.
Fair point. The yellow does look off. Bit loud. I like the breathability of the open cell foam though. Maybe some cloth or speaker foam glued and tucked over the top. I could possibly glue the yellow foam pieces into single fillers while I’m at it. That’s off in the distance though. I think about all the work I’ve still got ahead of me, and the money…
I was looking at seats today. Looked at front accessory drives a few weeks ago, ouch. Way off in the distant past was a stereo system. Wiring harness somewhere in between. I sure hope my stock hood fits. Just keep plugging along.
It’s just there to seal off the trunk drops. Keep parts/tools and debris out of there. When I cut the old quarters off, I found spark plugs, screw drivers, coins, and a bunch of dirt in there. My attempt at preventing that from happening again while still allowing it to breathe.
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Makes sense I've had my telescopic magnet down there a few times.
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I’ve been thinking about the drop offs on my early ChevylI’s and have been considering treating them like newer vehicles are handled. Tying the trunk pan extensions into the quarter panels will stiffen up the rear sheet metal and eliminate the drop off black holes..
Concerning this area. Where does the water that may enter down the rear side windows drain out?
The quarter glass area will drain into the rocker panels. The trunk drops have drain holes at the bottom. Water from the rear glass and trunk lid will drain around the trunk seal and down the tail light panel through 3 drain valleys. This is all from memory, which isn’t as good as it used to be.
I don't think it will hurt. I would guess that it may help reduce resonance of that large quarter panel. I had almost lost a tool or fitting down one side a while back when I was plumbing the fuel lines. It occurred to me that it would have been very difficult to retrieve an aluminum piece from down there. It seemed like a good use for the remaining fuel cell foam pieces I had left over, and refused to throw away. But the color...it is unattractive. As @railroaderman mentioned, I'll need to tidy it up somehow, at some point. It does seem like a good idea to keep it breathable though. I assume the fuel cell foam is very breathable since it is porous. I certainly don't want to trap any moisture in that area. It will experience moisture from the bottom up since the drain holes are located right behind the rear wheels. Any wet driving will throw the mist right at the drain holes.
Decided to hang the fenders today. Needed to find out if my choices on the front suspension/brakes/tires/wheels were going to work with the fenders. I think it’s a bit too wide. That was a fear back when I put the wheel spacers on to clear the calipers. I’m noticing for the 1st time somehow, the wheel opening “brows” are at different heights. I never noticed that relationship before. It looks super pronounced on my car as it sits now. What’s wild is the front is a couple inches low, from level, and it looks like it’s tall. I guess I’ve got to get the doors on it and drop it to the ground to see how it looks. I may have to research some different brakes for the front. If I can lose the wheel spacers, id be in much better shape.
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It looks much more pronounced when the car is half stripped and sitting up off the ground. Once it's together on the ground it isn't quite as noticable.
I raised the back an inch, and then leveled up the front. Then put it down on the ground. Fender clearance looks better and the camber has not been set. Might just squeak by. I’ve got an email into CPP tech to see if they know any tricks.
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CPP sez I got what I got. They don’t have any spindle/brake configurations that will narrow the front track width. I checked the camber with a 2’ level and my electronic angle finder. Camber is still positive for sure. 3-4 degrees on DS and 1-2 on passenger. I found a cool video on a cheap way to at get in the ballpark with alignment. I’ll go through that and the start the arduous task of cycling the front suspension to check clearance. This will be tricky since the only way I can get to full bump is by removing the shocks. Here is the video I found. Do me a favor and let me know if you see this post. Thanks.
This one is pretty good too.
This one is pretty good too.
This looks like a possible plan B. If my front wheels don’t work out, I can order a set of these with the proper offset. These American Racing Torq Thrust SL wheels are concave so they should clear my brakes but I still need to verify that. I may even be able to go to a 9” wheel instead of 8”. As I expected, expensive. $574 per wheel listed on their website. This is the best/cheapest solution I can find without ordering a full set of wheels. Do they match the Billet Specialties Wheels on the rear? They look like pretty darn close on the outside and they have the same finish. I wonder if the center caps are the same?
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