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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #744 ·
I spent a few hours at my local u-pull-it yard. Was looking for a console/ebrake solution that I could make work. Looked at the foreign cars and the gm cars. Never made it to the Dodge and Ford isles. I couldn’t find a console I liked. I did find a 3rd brake light and hand brake I though might work, assuming I had to build the console. The brake light was from a 2015 Cruze and the brake was from a 2002 Pontiac Vibe. I like the brake light, I think I can make that work. The hand brake seems like a loss, at 1st glance. It’s too high I think.

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #746 ·
I would find a console first, then take the matching handbrake lever at that point. I still need to get a handbrake for my Neon console, but I don't have the e-brake hooked up currently in the car.
I’m leaning towards building a console. I think I can make the hand brake work too. Going to move it forward and lean it over towards the passenger. I can get it lower when I install it since I’ll have to fabricate a bracket.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #747 ·
I propped the Vintage Air evap into position which spiraled into multiple new considerations. Dash vents, dash pad and gauge panel. The evaporator will fit there ok. I don’t think I can make the duct connections to an under dash vent kit work though. Doesn’t look like there is enough room plus I think I would prefer dash vents. That’s another project since my car didn’t have factory AC. That means a new dash pad and instrument cluster, which is needed anyways since I have Autometer gauges. That introduces a new problem. There are plenty of replacement dash bezel options out there for 5” gauges, but I have 3-3/8” gauges. I can’t find any adapters but I’m hopeful I can solve that problem. As far as the dash vents, I’ve seen a thread on this site where someone did it. I’ll have to research that out. Seems like there was some complication with converting, but doable.

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These are pictures I pulled off the internet of under dash and oem vent locations. I definitely prefer the oem look, and leg room.
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1967 Nova SS
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Dash vents are way better looking. More of a custom look and not something added on. That is something I would like to do one of these days. For now mine are the standard under dash vintage module.

While your doing your evaporator "evaluation" make sure to include the routing of heater hoses and A/C lines to your unit. If coming through the firewall into cab, not too big a deal but if your thinking of under the fenders, whole other ballgame.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #749 ·
Dash vents are way better looking. More of a custom look and not something added on. That is something I would like to do one of these days. For now mine are the standard under dash vintage module.

While your doing your evaporator "evaluation" make sure to include the routing of heater hoses and A/C lines to your unit. If coming through the firewall into cab, not too big a deal but if your thinking of under the fenders, whole other ballgame.
I thought the Nova “kit” from VA ran the lines through the oem blower hole, down through the kick panel vent? That approach for the lines seems to work well for the TXV and heater connection points I assume? I wasn’t really considering the hidden lines at this point. I’ve already got plenty on challenges to overcome on this task. Although, that would certainly clean up the engine bay. I’ve got work to do to my fenders so I could probably spot weld some hangers on the inside. Where would the lines enter the cabin? Through the kidney sidewall into the cowl vent plenum? Interesting. I’ll have to research that more. Did you go with the sure fit kit?
 

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I did use the sure fit kit originally. When I changed front clip to CBR I redid the A/C connection account I wanted everything I could out of the engine bay. My kit for the 67 had the heater hoses going through the oem location on firewall and A/C lines also (mine was not an A/C car).

I couldn't find any pictures I took of how I did it but it's almost like these that I remember Nova66mussl posted (hope he doesn't mind me using them). I did mount the dryer on firewall just to the left of where the lines go through on passenger side under the fenders. Again mine is 67 and this on a 66.

Also I changed the A/C lines and connections to EZ-Clip types as they are smaller OD and you can make them up as you go. Not trying to change the direction of your build, it's awesome as is, just something to think about in the process.

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #751 ·
I did use the sure fit kit originally. When I changed front clip to CBR I redid the A/C connection account I wanted everything I could out of the engine bay. My kit for the 67 had the heater hoses going through the oem location on firewall and A/C lines also (mine was not an A/C car).

I couldn't find any pictures I took of how I did it but it's almost like these that I remember Nova66mussl posted (hope he doesn't mind me using them). I did mount the dryer on firewall just to the left of where the lines go through on passenger side under the fenders. Again mine is 67 and this on a 66.

Also I changed the A/C lines and connections to EZ-Clip types as they are smaller OD and you can make them up as you go. Not trying to change the direction of your build, it's awesome as is, just something to think about in the process.

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Appreciate the suggestions. I’ve put very little thought into the AC/dash installation/appearance details until now. The evaporator box position makes the glove box useless. I’m favoring passenger leg room/maximum height over glove box space. I’m thinking I’ll put the fuse block behind the door right now. Other things I’d like to have in this car include power windows, power locks, power trunk release, security and a decent stereo. I think the time to deal with my seats is fast approaching too. Looks like I’ll need to make a custom console for some electronics and cup holders to live in. Switches, buttons, park brake and even head unit possibly.
 

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I propped the Vintage Air evap into position which spiraled into multiple new considerations. Dash vents, dash pad and gauge panel. The evaporator will fit there ok. I don’t think I can make the duct connections to an under dash vent kit work though. Doesn’t look like there is enough room plus I think I would prefer dash vents. That’s another project since my car didn’t have factory AC. That means a new dash pad and instrument cluster, which is needed anyways since I have Autometer gauges. That introduces a new problem. There are plenty of replacement dash bezel options out there for 5” gauges, but I have 3-3/8” gauges. I can’t find any adapters but I’m hopeful I can solve that problem. As far as the dash vents, I’ve seen a thread on this site where someone did it. I’ll have to research that out. Seems like there was some complication with converting, but doable.

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These are pictures I pulled off the internet of under dash and oem vent locations. I definitely prefer the oem look, and leg room.
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That evaporator looks different then the one I have in my nova. I have my lines running through the kick panel and out to were the fender will be. I plan to run it up in the fender and come out in front of the inner fender. But my ac outlets don’t come out from the top. I’m just curious what has changed.
 

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I propped the Vintage Air evap into position which spiraled into multiple new considerations. Dash vents, dash pad and gauge panel. The evaporator will fit there ok. I don’t think I can make the duct connections to an under dash vent kit work though. Doesn’t look like there is enough room plus I think I would prefer dash vents. That’s another project since my car didn’t have factory AC. That means a new dash pad and instrument cluster, which is needed anyways since I have Autometer gauges. That introduces a new problem. There are plenty of replacement dash bezel options out there for 5” gauges, but I have 3-3/8” gauges. I can’t find any adapters but I’m hopeful I can solve that problem. As far as the dash vents, I’ve seen a thread on this site where someone did it. I’ll have to research that out. Seems like there was some complication with converting, but doable.

View attachment 450928

View attachment 450926

View attachment 450927

These are pictures I pulled off the internet of under dash and oem vent locations. I definitely prefer the oem look, and leg room.
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View attachment 450929
Also I’m not sure how that one mounts but mine was calling for a bolt to go through one of the only heater core bolt holes and I didn’t want that to show since I smoothed the fire. So I made a little bracket and bolted it through the cowl and just reverse the mount.
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Air outlets on the evaporator I have are not on the top either. They are on the left side toward driver's side of unit. What I did for the top mounting location was to weld in a stud on the firewall (cab side) when I did the firewall clean up. Not visible from engine bay.
 

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Air outlets on the evaporator I have are not on the top either. They are on the left side toward driver's side of unit. What I did for the top mounting location was to weld in a stud on the firewall (cab side) when I did the firewall clean up. Not visible from engine bay.
ya, mine are on the side toward the driver side as well. I wish I would welded mine on before I painted it but I Didn’t have it yet. So building that little bracket was the next best thing.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #756 ·
That evaporator looks different then the one I have in my nova. I have my lines running through the kick panel and out to were the fender will be. I plan to run it up in the fender and come out in front of the inner fender. But my ac outlets don’t come out from the top. I’m just curious what has changed.
The unit I have is the Gen 2 Compaq which is part of the builder series. Because I have the roll cage tube extending up to the firewall, I didn't think the sure-fit solution would work. If memory serves, the evaporator for the sure-fit kit was larger in size. That evap box is just a mock-up unit.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #757 ·
The Vintage Air evaporator is close to being installed but I keep getting sidetracked on all the little components that will be competing for space behind the dash. Dash speaker (new Retrosound dual voice coil speaker unboxed finally), defroster ducts (no fixed solution here yet) and even the AC control panel for the dash bezel. Each oem defroster vent opening is approximately 8.75" long. Vintage Air has universal vents and a few manufacturer specific vents. I'll may have to drill 4 holes in the dash top to mount them or, I can cut apart the oem vents and adapt them. I tried it just to see how it looked. Close to unworkable without a lot of effort.

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In the process of trying to devise a front mount frame solution for the evaporator box, I put the sectioned defrost vents in. Hose connections are going to be a challenge. I’ll probably adapt some other vents with the 2” hose connectors already on them. The Mopar ones look like they will work.
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Rear evaporator brackets are done. I had to stand it off the firewall a good bit to fit it with enough passenger footwell room. Otherwise, the fan housing contacts the cowl floor, pushing the unit way down.
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Check out the embossed flames on the speaker frame! It’s steel. They fit. I’ll need some gasket foam and speaker mesh to put it in. 2 more holes in the dash top to mount it.
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Discussion Starter · #758 ·
Pulled apart the swap meet gauge cluster. Cleaned and tested each of the gauges. All the lights work, all the gauges seem to work, I didn’t hook up any signal/senders. The Speedo has 21k miles on it and the button isn’t working as I expected it to, function wise. Have to dig up the doc on that to figure out if I can reset the miles and how that button is supposed to work.

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #759 ·
Worked on the 2 remaining brackets for the AC evaporator. Used 1/16” tig rod to bend up some templates so I can bend the 3/8” rod to match. I used 1/8” cage tabs bolted to the firewall and the evaporator for weld tabs. Just going to weld the bent rods to the tabs in place as brackets.

As a side note- I used 1/4” rivnuts in the firewall to bolt the weld tabs. Before I installed them, I painted them black and used a light coat of brush on seam sealer. I wanted to seal the hole because it’s in the cowl. The bolts are high to keep them out of pooling water. I’ll use some thread sealer when I bolt them in.

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