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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #701 ·
Have the rear brake lines re-routed. Re-installing the rear and checking the bump stop’s tomorrow. I may route the ebrake cables too.

I do think I’ll need to pull the cables inside the car to a center mounted hand lever. Most pictures I’ve seen show the splitter and cables in the tunnel. I’m not certain I’ll have enough clearance to do it that way and I don’t think I’m going back to the oem cable network. Even if I did, the oem foot lever can’t go back in due to cage bars.

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #702 ·
Put the rear back into the car and jacked it to full weight on the bump stops. Everything clears, no contact but the sway bar arms have only 1/4” clearance from the bottom of the trunk/frame bracket. Still have to put the shocks in without the springs and see where they land at full compression. May need taller bumps, we will see soon enough.

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #703 ·
I finished re-installing the rear axle today. Shocks are 11” compressed and I’ve got 11.5” full suspension compression on the bump stops. Somehow that worked out. 0.5” shock travel remaining in other words. This means I won’t be bottoming the shocks. I did gain another 1/4” of clearance on the sway bar arms by removing the jam nuts on the link bars. I had to mess with them quite a bit to get them fully seated, tight and positioned correctly. Trying to figure out what I need or want to do next. I’m considering the fenders and core support. The tunnel and shifter hump need more work too. Sorry, no pictures. It’s all in this thread recently anyways. It’s just been a re-do for the axle bump stops. Wish I had gotten that right the 1st time around.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #705 ·
Fuel plumbing progress. Interesting how the regulator appears to work. The inlet and outlet ports are a common chamber. The return port appears to be the only metered port. This means the entire supply side of the system will be maintained at low pressure. I guess that regulator is going to be flowing a lot of return fuel. I believe I’ve followed Aeromotive’s instructions so hopefully no problems. Need to buy a gauge for that regulator also. Not sure how I feel about that fuel cell vent line either. May need a better clamping solution than that zip tie. Also, the dust all over everything in the pictures is bugging me. Needs a cleanup.

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I may do the same. At the bottom were you drilled out the spot welds mine has broken welds and it looks like somebody hammered the side of the entire latch to the point where it does not look square. I have it squared back up but I have to pull it out to bend the spot welded tab to match the contour of the trunk. It's pretty heavy gauge steel.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #714 ·
I may do the same. At the bottom were you drilled out the spot welds mine has broken welds and it looks like somebody hammered the side of the entire latch to the point where it does not look square. I have it squared back up but I have to pull it out to bend the spot welded tab to match the contour of the trunk. It's pretty heavy gauge steel.
that’s odd. Any idea how it got that way? I used left over flat bar with the holes already there. It was leftover from the fuel cell mounting kit I bought, I think. I believe it’s 1/8”.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #717 ·
My trunk latch/housing looks like it met a sledge as well. Trunk shuts really good still (no weatherstripping), so they must've boogered the housing up and gotten the latch centered perfectly. Maybe it's factory, and they smacked it to get things to line up?
That's a good point. It may just be how they "adjusted" the operation at the factory. There were only 4, off-center spot welds on my bracket at the floor hump. The bracket itself was not deformed at all. As far as alignment, based on the measurements I took using the trunk lid with the latch mechanism installed, the bracket is centered (side to side) in the opening. The final contact point for the locking latch winds up being offset 5/8" to the driver side, if memory serves. The actual latch receiver insert (I made that up) which bolts into the latch bracket accomplishes the offset. I'm still going to install the deck lid and test it. Fingers crossed I get this right on the 1st try.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #718 ·
Finished welding it. Good fit to the car. Just have to get the trunk lid back on the car to make sure everything lines up before I drill and bolt it in. The one worry I have - Am I screwing myself by not waiting until I have the new lid to lock it down? I should probably just order the new one and avoid the risk entirely. Then I wonder if I should give a go at fabricating a spoiler for this one and if it works out, I’ll keep it. Decisions, decisions. The parts lid is a 3 out of 5, plus I have to strip 3 coats of paint off the underside. A lot of work down that path, but a spoiler would be pretty cool.

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