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If this era nova has a 17" wheel it needs to be tucking rim in the back for me. I'm almost tucking 15's and I'd still like it lower. I like low cars though, the lower the better.

I think lowering the above car 3-4" would make a big difference in how it looks but the stripes and stickers need to go IMO.

Black is definitely badass but it's not for me either. It's been over 100 for the last 10 or so days around here and it's pretty dusty. Lighter colors hide dust a lot better than dark colors.

At least the google exists to you can search "nova" and scroll through hundreds of pictures to find something you like. Then you just have to go to the paint shop and try and find something close.
 

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1972 Nova
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I think the trim around the windows would look good if it was glossier, but I'm getting to like the body color trim more and more (I have most of the bright trim for around the windows, missing one piece between my place and my parent's shop though). That car does sit very high, I wonder if they were running into issues with the wheels in front and wanted it level to match. I don't sit as low as I want with my 255/60-15 in back, but I want it on the road before getting it lower (if at all). I just have the tire tucked in back with stock 5-leaf springs, and the front has the tire right at the fender with Z28 springs (hoping they settle some when driven). I tried my brother's 17" wheels with similar tire sizes as I have, and I didn't care for it. They look too big on a small car like the Nova IMO if they don't have a flat lip on the front.

Paint is a tough one, I like the old rally/Corvette red (as does 50% of classic owners judging by the shows I go to), but I like some of the newer metallic reds. Black hides a lot of body lines to me (car is hot rod black right now), and gloss shows all mistakes.
 

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1974 Nova SS
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1,481 Posts
Discussion Starter · #668 ·
I’ve touched up all the paint I screwed up fixing the 4-link crossmember, fabricated my new 4-link bars, welded up my rear sway bar and painted all the loose parts I could find. I had planned on heat treating the sway-bar but I don’t think that’s going to happen now. Just have to see how it performs I guess. Next is finishing up the fuel cell. I have to put the pump, sending unit and foam into it. After that - rough in the rear brake line on the body and the fuel lines. Then the rear can finally go back in…with shocks and springs.

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1974 Nova SS
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Discussion Starter · #670 ·
Those 4 link bars came out nice!
Thanks Dave. You are too kind Sir. It took me 2 evenings to tig weld them satisfactorily and there are still some "inclusions". As always it got to a point where "that's as good as they are going to get". Then the priming and painting...I'm happy with the way everything turned out though.
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Discussion Starter · #674 ·
Ordered up another expensive box of AN fittings, brake line fittings + vice jaws and AN wrenches. I’ve got the back half of the car “roughed in” now. I had to do some more surgery (cut off the OEM park brake brackets) and touch-up painting. They were in the way. I just need to take care of some details and I can finally put the rear axle back in. Need to remove the nylon washers on the AN bulkhead fittings plus seal the penetrations with some black RTV. Same for the tube clamp fasteners that penetrated into the car through the sheet metal. Also need to clean it all up, as you can see it’s filthy under there from all the cutting/grinding and welding. One final detail, notice the 14” braided flex line I used to bridge the frame so I could get the rear brake line on the outside of the frame rail?

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Air drill, very interesting.

How is it working with the black braided lines? I heard the extra layer was a bit of a pain so I avoided that and went with just stainless with black ends. Is that teflon hose?
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Discussion Starter · #676 ·
Air drill, very interesting.

How is it working with the black braided lines? I heard the extra layer was a bit of a pain so I avoided that and went with just stainless with black ends. Is that teflon hose?
😆 the air drill serves its purpose. I do use it quite a bit. Good for drilling small holes and running the small wire wheels/cups. LOUD though; have to wear hearing protection to keep from going deaf. I use my cordless for larger type work plus setting screws with clutch.

That hose is not PFTE. It Jegs 350R (I think) and is advertised as a non-PFTE hose that works as good as PFTE. Rated for gasoline or E85 with no vapor leakage. The cost difference was significant enough to try it. I think it was about $120/15’ roll. It‘s been pretty easy to work with so far. The clamping/routing has been more of a challenge than anything else.
 

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😆 the air drill serves its purpose. I do use it quite a bit. Good for drilling small holes and running the small wire wheels/cups. LOUD though; have to wear hearing protection to keep from going deaf. I use my cordless for larger type work plus setting screws with clutch.

That hose is not PFTE. It Jegs 350R (I think) and is advertised as a non-PFTE hose that works as good as PFTE. Rated for gasoline or E85 with no vapor leakage. The cost difference was significant enough to try it. I think it was about $120/15’ roll. It‘s been pretty easy to work with so far. The clamping/routing has been more of a challenge than anything else.
The first thing I thought is his neighbors must love him! HAHA. My dad has a ton of air tools from his many years working as a mechanic. He's got air ratchets that will try and break your wrist and smash your fingers if you aren't paying attention. Electric has definitely come a long way but there is definitely still a place for air tools. Always handy to have more than one drill on hand when you're batching through a project. Drill, countersink, driver, etc...
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Discussion Starter · #680 ·
I reinstalled the rear axle this weekend along with the new rear shocks. I’ll need to replace the shock mount bearings at some point before driving the car. The bearings that came with the shock have shoulders on them and they are right at max angle installed. I think some straight spherical bearings with no shoulder will work better. That’s what is on my mock-up shocks and they worked fine.

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