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I don't understand what you mean when you say "separates". Do you mean separation from power/load or are you referring to suspension load separation or...? Thanks.
The rear suspension creates separation, IE the tires get shoved towards the ground. So as torque is applied to the ground the axle tries to spin (wheel hop, without traction bars), the caltracs turn this energy into downward pressure on the top of the spring with the triangle shaped bracket on the front spring eye. This pressure drives the tires down, away from the body, and increases traction. As a result the pinion clocks upward under hard acceleration.

Here's a video I found in a quick search that illustrates what is going on. You can see even as they raise the RPM on the foot brake the back end raises. go to about the 1:00 mark or so.


To see how the pinion moves watch this video at 1/4 speed. I think this guy could use some stiffer shocks though. His bars might need to be snugged up to or something, pinion rotation seems a bit excessive.

 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #642 ·
The rear suspension creates separation, IE the tires get shoved towards the ground. So as torque is applied to the ground the axle tries to spin (wheel hop, without traction bars), the caltracs turn this energy into downward pressure on the top of the spring with the triangle shaped bracket on the front spring eye. This pressure drives the tires down, away from the body, and increases traction. As a result the pinion clocks upward under hard acceleration.

Here's a video I found in a quick search that illustrates what is going on. You can see even as they raise the RPM on the foot brake the back end raises. go to about the 1:00 mark or so.


To see how the pinion moves watch this video at 1/4 speed. I think this guy could use some stiffer shocks though. His bars might need to be snugged up to or something, pinion rotation seems a bit excessive.

That second video was cool! Lots of violence with the shifts. That’s much more wrap than Im expecting with the 4-link. The car will still exhibit the squat and release I’m sure, to some extent, depending on link bar angles. Thanks for the vids, I’ll go search for some 4-link footage now.
 

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1974 Nova SS pro-tour resto-mod.
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Discussion Starter · #647 ·
I finally got something done. I finished up the redo fab work on my 4-link crossmember for the drive shaft clearance. I used a 6” diameter circle template to mark the cut-out then used a small zip wheel to cut it out. I used 3/16” steel to box it in. In order to bend the flat bar I ended up making a mandrel out of the piece I cut out. Then I used the oxy/acetylene torch to heat it and bend it around the mandrel. It worked out. Got a nice flat bend and with a little tweaking, it fit nicely. It was definitely not ideal welding under that car again but it got done which feels pretty good. Still have to prep, mask and spot paint it but that will be pretty easy.

Next- assemble the rear brakes onto the differential plus make and attach the brake line to it. Have to install my new differential cover. I need to run my fuel and brake lines up to the front and lastly, fabricate the larger link bars. After all that, I think the rear can go in permanently. I even have my rear shocks and springs on hand.

After all that, I guess it’s back to the transmission/tunnel cover.

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Discussion Starter · #651 ·
You should just do it while you are still in the fab mode on that piece...
You think I should do a full bracketed piece that extends back closer to the universal or just a strap on top of that cross-member? All the strap will do is protect the tunnel/floor. A broken DS at the rear can be "separated" from the drive line by clutching/neutral. I guess I'll need to come up with a solution for the transmission connection because that seems like a much more catastrophic and dangerous failure. The thing is, this car is a street car. I'm falling into the same "trap" as I did with the cage - add a bar here and there. I've got to draw the line somewhere. I have less interest in hard launches, more in hard acceleration out of a turn. I'm a little embarrassed to write this but I've never even been to an autocross event. I wonder if those guys, or even the drift guys regularly lose a DS and how far they go with DS loops. Ultimately, I guess it comes down to the rules of the sanctioning body. I'm less concerned with being turned away by tech at a drag event than at a road course event. I do agree with you though. I really, really, really dislike doing things twice.
 

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I totally agree with you...so since all it's really doing is protecting the floor I'd just keep it at a simple strap... emphasis on the simple 😁. But you are right, it's probably not really needed at that end....I'm no help, I'm gonna shut up now, sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #653 ·
I totally agree with you...so since all it's really doing is protecting the floor I'd just keep it at a simple strap... emphasis on the simple 😁. But you are right, it's probably not really needed at that end....I'm no help, I'm gonna shut up now, sorry.
Not at all buddy. I appreciate the input. I went out and looked it over again and tabled it for now. There is another crossmember directly above the lower one so…the driveshaft is captured quite well there. But the front…most likely going to fab a hoop there. I’m pretty sure I’m going to have to rip the tunnel further back for the DS anyways so it will play into that project.
 

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Discussion Starter · #655 ·
I started to assemble the brakes on the rear axle but quickly discovered some paint work that needed to be done 1st. This led to some disassembly - removing the axles. Decided to paint the Moser cover, axle flanges, axle housing ends and shock brackets. Now I can put the brakes on. I do need to figure out how to mount the brake tee fitting and secure the lines to the housing next.

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Discussion Starter · #656 ·
Damn you got some good fab skills!
Thanks buddy. Just have to keep plugging away at it. One day it will be done and I'll only realize it when I can't find anything left to do.

I had a heck of a time installing the Wilwood backing plates onto the rear differential last night. It's got Ford housing ends to eliminate the C-clips. It took me a while to realize that the hole in the axle flange is how you get to the bearing retainer/backing plate fasteners. Not a Ford guy, never worked on a 9" rear or brakes = felt like a dunce when the light bulb finally went on. The shenanigans were actually worse than that. I'll just say this, I know what it takes to get those tiny drum shoes off/on and it isn't much fun either!
 

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Discussion Starter · #657 ·
I’ve been trying to button up the rear differential but it’s been a bit of a puzzle admittedly. I was about to run hardline right to the caliper and then realized that was not going to be good for service in the future. These brakes are already fiddly enough without the need to disconnect the brake line to remove the caliper. I ordered the caliper flex line kit and ebrake cables. Kind of irritating that Wilwood doesn’t include at least the flex lines in a “brake kit”. On the bright side, along with a bit of anxiety, my driveshaft arrived.
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Discussion Starter · #660 ·
I'm not a big fan of those stripes personally, nor the jumbo stickers on the side. I like the color but not the black mirrors and side trim. Looks odd with shiny trim everywhere else.
I agree. Way too much chrome and the stripes seem anemic. The billboard stickers on the side have to go. I don't like it much at all now. I don't want to have to paint my wheels. Those wheels seem too tall also. The thing that will make a guy crazy though...I know my car would look very different with that same paint scheme. I feel like the stance and deep rear wheels can be a game changer but I'm turned off on it none the less. The big differences in what I was thinking for my car are bumpers and mirrors would be body color, both bumpers will be pulled in as close to the body as I can get them and stance would be lower with the wheels tucked into the wells more. Picking colors has never been a strong trait of mine. The car would be flat black if that wasn't worn out...and I didn't live in the SE-US. Very hot summers. My Harley was flat-black with chrome and I loved it. My Honda 919 was flat black with aluminum and I loved that. I had a black truck once (2001 S10 extended cab, ZZ4 package I think) and I hated it. It looked great when it was clean but it was absolutely impossible to keep it clean. I'm in trouble with this one. Maybe I need to find an on-line "color calculator" so a random algorithm can tell me what color to paint my car. :ROFLMAO:
 
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