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Good News - You made progress on the Nova. Bad News - Your Out of the inheritance pool.
 

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Nice fab work and attention to detail -- My car was a drag car from the 1970's had a fuel cell and quarter work and a giant square hole in the hood for a tunnel ram (all which is fixed now) but not anywhere in the scope of the amount of work you are doing I had to take a nap after going through all your work and fab pictures on all the threads. I have some paint touch up work left and a front end alignment and I am done. Too old anymore for this stuff. I did not take hardly any pics of the restoration since it was just stock work (The ones you saw on my showcase) But I will post pics of the finished car when its done.


John
 

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Discussion Starter · #525 ·
Managed to get a coat of epoxy primer on. I don’t see any serious problems with my filler work. I definitely have some more work to do though. The primer didn’t hide well at all. Strange to me that the entire car was gone over with 180 and you see precisely where the bare metal is, the filler is and even the glaze. I am happy that the metal is covered now.

new front tires showed up too.

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Looks very nice in prime, I used to use PPG NCP 250 Epoxy primer but that has been discontinued for a long time, so now we use Evercoat 4 to 1 epoxy primer - it is almost like spraying thinned filler - seems like many of the resto shops by me use that - or Slick Fill which is even thicker--- and then get ready to block sand for many days and nignts.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #527 ·
Looks very nice in prime, I used to use PPG NCP 250 Epoxy primer but that has been discontinued for a long time, so now we use Evercoat 4 to 1 epoxy primer - it is almost like spraying thinned filler - seems like many of the resto shops by me use that - or Slick Fill which is even thicker--- and then get ready to block sand for many days and nignts.

John
I screwed up and bought 2 gallons of Eastwood epoxy primer which mixes 1:1. It seems to spray ok with a 1.7 tip but the stuff comes out of the can like sludge. The activator is light brown in color which is odd to me as well. Haven’t had any problems with it but I have zero experience with any other epoxy primer at this point. I ended up using about 2 quarts. I’d recommend using a drill and mixer to batch this stuff up. PITA to mix it up well after combining.
 

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I screwed up and bought 2 gallons of Eastwood epoxy primer which mixes 1:1. It seems to spray ok with a 1.7 tip but the stuff comes out of the can like sludge. The activator is light brown in color which is odd to me as well. Haven’t had any problems with it but I have zero experience with any other epoxy primer at this point. I ended up using about 2 quarts. I’d recommend using a drill and mixer to batch this stuff up. PITA to mix it up well after combining.
I used the same epoxy primer too. I ended up using the drill mixer to get the epoxy itself mixed before adding the activator to small batches. Seemed pretty thin at that point. I know what you are talking about with the coverage. Your work will show through on the first coat and even the second if sprayed the same day. If you let the first coat set for about 2 weeks then scuff it and lay a 2nd coat it will cover. I have no experience either but this is what I noticed on my first adventure into painting.
 

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I spray the Evercoat 4:1 primer with a Sata gravity feed with the 3M PPS system with a 2.0 fluid tip -- and that stuff lays down very nice-- you can put 3 heavy coats on and let it dry a week or 2 and it block sands great --- The bad thing is its expensive if you are on a budget. I have only used brand name paint products in the last 40 years so, I have no idea who makes Eastwood paint materials.
Hopefully you will not have any bad reactions down the road after all that work

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #530 ·
I spray the Evercoat 4:1 primer with a Sata gravity feed with the 3M PPS system with a 2.0 fluid tip -- and that stuff lays down very nice-- you can put 3 heavy coats on and let it dry a week or 2 and it block sands great --- The bad thing is its expensive if you are on a budget. I have only used brand name paint products in the last 40 years so, I have no idea who makes Eastwood paint materials.
Hopefully you will not have any bad reactions down the road after all that work

John
I’ll most likely be using their base/clear as well. I’ve had good experiences with their paint products so far. I do admit that I like the convenience of being able to order it all online and have it shipped to my house. It always arrives quickly, nicely packaged and without damage. That’s at least half the battle these days. They do have good support too. Their prices are not really “low budget” but seem acceptable to me. There is absolutely no way I’m paying $500+ per gallon for paint. Not for this project anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter · #533 ·
I spray the Evercoat 4:1 primer with a Sata gravity feed with the 3M PPS system with a 2.0 fluid tip -- and that stuff lays down very nice-- you can put 3 heavy coats on and let it dry a week or 2 and it block sands great --- The bad thing is its expensive if you are on a budget. I have only used brand name paint products in the last 40 years so, I have no idea who makes Eastwood paint materials.
Hopefully you will not have any bad reactions down the road after all that work

John
Thanks for the feedback John. I appreciate you sharing your expertise. I'm trying to formulate my path forward from this point and wanted to bounce the general plan for your thoughts. I've been pushing pretty hard on this project for the last 2 years or so. One big milestone I've been focusing on, is getting it off the rotisserie and putting parts back on it. One thing I don't want to do it take it off the rack and make life difficult for myself down the road. I guess my question is, how do you know when it's the right time? I'm currently operating on the assumption that the body should be at a point where it only needs final blocking? It's obviously much easier to work the panels, mask and spray with the car on the twirly-twirl. My plan for final paint has been to assemble 1st, and then paint. It's not going to be practical or even feasible for me to assemble, take apart, paint and then re-assemble this car. I think I may even be able to get access to a booth (and someone who knows how to paint) with the car assembled. Any wisdom on this is appreciated. Thanks again.
 

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I’ll most likely be using their base/clear as well. I’ve had good experiences with their paint products so far. I do admit that I like the convenience of being able to order it all online and have it shipped to my house. It always arrives quickly, nicely packaged and without damage. That’s at least half the battle these days. They do have good support too. Their prices are not really “low budget” but seem acceptable to me. There is absolutely no way I’m paying $500+ per gallon for paint. Not for this project anyways.
I have purchased several different items from Eastwood and they were all very good,I know what you mean about paint materials STUPID money now. I did my Hemi GTX 2 years ago and spent $6,300+
In materials ( including all the new sheet metal ) and the price of materials is going up every 4 months,You have to do the work yourself because nobody can afford to pay a high end shop to do it anymore.
John
 

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Thanks for the feedback John. I appreciate you sharing your expertise. I'm trying to formulate my path forward from this point and wanted to bounce the general plan for your thoughts. I've been pushing pretty hard on this project for the last 2 years or so. One big milestone I've been focusing on, is getting it off the rotisserie and putting parts back on it. One thing I don't want to do it take it off the rack and make life difficult for myself down the road. I guess my question is, how do you know when it's the right time? I'm currently operating on the assumption that the body should be at a point where it only needs final blocking? It's obviously much easier to work the panels, mask and spray with the car on the twirly-twirl. My plan for final paint has been to assemble 1st, and then paint. It's not going to be practical or even feasible for me to assemble, take apart, paint and then re-assemble this car. I think I may even be able to get access to a booth (and someone who knows how to paint) with the car assembled. Any wisdom on this is appreciated. Thanks again.
It depends on how you are going to finish the car, Painted inside trunk , floor pans ETC... Just remember to paper and back-tape anything that is already painted to protect that area from overspray. If you do inside the trunk or firewall, Some blackout or splatter paint areas you can do after the car is painted - I don't know how you plan to do the car-- full color everywhere or bed-liner underneath ETC.. It seems like you definitely have things planed out good and are doing things correctly and when finished car will be fabulous.
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #536 ·
I have purchased several different items from Eastwood and they were all very good,I know what you mean about paint materials STUPID money now. I did my Hemi GTX 2 years ago and spent $6,300+
In materials ( including all the new sheet metal ) and the price of materials is going up every 4 months,You have to do the work yourself because nobody can afford to pay a high end shop to do it anymore.
John
Now, I would spend $500+ on a gallon of paint for that GTX! Please throw up a picture of that car.

The bottom, trunk and inside of my car have all been painted. I have some touch-up work in the trunk but it's very minor. On the exterior, I have a small "dent" on each quarter above the style line (from weld buckle I suspect) that I will need to deal with but they are small... and consistent from side to side. I have some detail work around the car with putty to fill some pinholes and scratches in the filler. There are some body or belt lines on the lower quarters behind the doors, where the quarter breaks down, that needs to be tightened up too. I didn't think any of these issues would be too difficult to address with the car on the ground, or wheel stands. This way I can push it out a bit and get the front subframe, rear axle, suspension, engine and trans into it. That would free up ALOT of space in my garage and house. I have parts for this thing everywhere...I literally have no room left...anywhere.
 

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Now, I would spend $500+ on a gallon of paint for that GTX! Please throw up a picture of that car.

The bottom, trunk and inside of my car have all been painted. I have some touch-up work in the trunk but it's very minor. On the exterior, I have a small "dent" on each quarter above the style line (from weld buckle I suspect) that I will need to deal with but they are small... and consistent from side to side. I have some detail work around the car with putty to fill some pinholes and scratches in the filler. There are some body or belt lines on the lower quarters behind the doors, where the quarter breaks down, that needs to be tightened up too. I didn't think any of these issues would be too difficult to address with the car on the ground, or wheel stands. This way I can push it out a bit and get the front subframe, rear axle, suspension, engine and trans into it. That would free up ALOT of space in my garage and house. I have parts for this thing everywhere...I literally have no room left...anywhere.
Now, I would spend $500+ on a gallon of paint for that GTX! Please throw up a picture of that car.

The bottom, trunk and inside of my car have all been painted. I have some touch-up work in the trunk but it's very minor. On the exterior, I have a small "dent" on each quarter above the style line (from weld buckle I suspect) that I will need to deal with but they are small... and consistent from side to side. I have some detail work around the car with putty to fill some pinholes and scratches in the filler. There are some body or belt lines on the lower quarters behind the doors, where the quarter breaks down, that needs to be tightened up too. I didn't think any of these issues would be too difficult to address with the car on the ground, or wheel stands. This way I can push it out a bit and get the front subframe, rear axle, suspension, engine and trans into it. That would free up ALOT of space in my garage and house. I have parts for this thing everywhere...I literally have no room left...anywhere.
I know what you mean with the parts I have had my GTX pretty much done for 2 years but can't the motor machine work done ( waiting 1/12 years) finally got the sleeves for the block but it still won't be put
together until late spring I have a few pics of the car when I was restoring it I will put up a couple thumbnails on this post


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I know what you mean with the parts I have had my GTX pretty much done for 2 years but can't the motor machine work done ( waiting 1/12 years) finally got the sleeves for the block but it still won't be put
together until late spring I have a few pics of the car when I was restoring it I will put up a couple thumbnails on this post


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My house is also filled with part that seem to never go away ( too many projects) here are a couple more pics when I was doing the bodywork .All the work (body and paint was done right where you see it in my garage) Not fun but it came out very nice. The glass interior are finished ,suspension on just need the engine done.

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Discussion Starter · #539 ·
My house is also filled with part that seem to never go away ( too many projects) here are a couple more pics when I was doing the bodywork .All the work (body and paint was done right where you see it in my garage) Not fun but it came out very nice. The glass interior are finished ,suspension on just need the engine done.

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Beautiful work and paint. That car is gonna be absolutely gorgeous when its done! I love that color! I had a 68 Coronet RT. 440 Mag, 4-speed, Dana 4:10 car. All numbers matching B5 Blue. I'm one of the few guys that can lose money on a MOPAR. I paid like $5500 for it in 1992-ish, put some money and time into getting it back together, then sold it for like $3500 to my (now a dealer) cousin for wedding $.
 

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Beautiful work and paint. That car is gonna be absolutely gorgeous when its done! I love that color! I had a 68 Coronet RT. 440 Mag, 4-speed, Dana 4:10 car. All numbers matching B5 Blue. I'm one of the few guys that can lose money on a MOPAR. I paid like $5500 for it in 1992-ish, put some money and time into getting it back together, then sold it for like $3500 to my (now a dealer) cousin for wedding $.
I also will never make any money on this car -- I would have to live another 100 years to get my money back. Even as I did all the work myself ( Except the motor and trans) My friends did that, And I still have north of 140K in it with the priceI paid for the car and my labor parts and materials. It is B5 blue, Black int with console, Black top,V21 hood treatment, Air grabber, 4 speed, 4:10 super trac pak car. In 1969 they made 98 automatics and 98 4 speed Hemi GTX's
 
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