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Sorry to hear about the shop but congrats on getting married! You have a plan "B" worked out for a garage to work on your project yet?
Plan B may be harkening back to hallowed antiquity... At my mom's house.. hahaha... Where it all began long ago in the 80's. Not quite sure yet. Thanks for the congrats!! We're happy and best of friends, why not tie the knot and enjoy the benefits of marriage too. More money back at tax time, insurance, etc. :p
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Discussion Starter · #502 ·
I've brought that quarter as far along as it's going to get at this time. I'll see how it looks in primer and then finalize it. I'm hoping all the heavy lifting is done on that panel. Took another swipe at the corner, which seems to be progressing well. Hopefully button up the DS of the car today and get it turned around so I can move to the other side. I guess I'll need to go over the roof with a block sander at some point and evaluate that situation.

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Discussion Starter · #503 ·
Found a few dings in the rocker panel so worked on that for a while. Moved to the A-pillar roof seam next. Had to dig a bunch of crud out of the seam in the windshield channel to get to the brazed joint. Filled that channel seam with Duraglas then blended the leaded roof seam with lightweight. I had to deal with a deformation in the A-pillar near the roof seam. I say deformation because it’s the same on the other side so I’m assuming it’s an OEM thing. Basically a dent.
I have discovered a trick to filling dents. Spot fill it with the Duraglas then top coat it with lightweight. The Duraglas doesn’t shrink as bad as the lightweight so it won’t take as many coats.

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Discussion Starter · #507 ·
I'm pretty sure a lot of my frustrations have been from the filler shrinking.
Yes. I got caught up in it today with that rocker. There was a small ding and a few high spots. I skimmed and sanded twice and the damn low from the ding was still there. Had to spot fill and sand a 3rd time to make it go away. I’m moving on to the other quarter tomorrow and I’ve got a plan. Hopefully make the process go more efficiently. Basically I’ll spot fill any serious lows with the Duraglas and then skim coat the weld seam, which is pretty much the entire panel with lightweight and sand. The real killers, as I’m sure you are well aware, are the high spots.
 

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Discussion Starter · #510 ·
I learned the minute you see a high spot stop sanding and figure out how to get it down without causing it to look worse. The real way is to shrink the high spot. Pounding them down does not always work from my experiences.
Mark, does your car have that weird wobble in the upper outside edge of the A-Pillar?
 

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I have a raised hump at the top of each A-Pillar where it starts to meet the roof. My rear pillars at the roof were really bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #512 ·
Turned the car around and worked on the PS quarter today. It went much better. I’m not done yet but much closer after only 1 day. I used the fiberglass filler to correct the shape of the panel and then skim coated it with lightweight. I’ll rough it down with the blocks and then finish it with the orbital tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll get that back corner done too.
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Oh Lord I feel for you. I replaced the bedsides on an old F-250 in a similar fashion way back and had an intimate relationship with pounds of Kittyhair and Bondo.
I am horrible at body work and despise it with a full passion more intense than 2 17 year olds after prom.
And this is why I replaced both quarters with full skins. The only seam that requires any body work is one right at the bottom of the sail panel.
I am not a fan of lap joints or backed joints especially when it will be visible and especially over a distance. The seam will expand/contract differently due to the metal being twice as thick and as you mentioned you can’t work it very well with hammer/dolly.
I butted mine.
I spent hours fitting them and you could not fit a razor blade between them on their final fit up. I am lucky enough to have a TIG and with a .040 tungsten and about 50 amps and a gas lense cup they fused with almost no filler. If I did need filler it was .030 MIG wire. The TIG leaves the weld dead soft and it is much easier to metal finish and excess weld is minimized. I didn’t have to grind it at all, if there was any excess a few strokes with a Vixen brought it down. I ran a bead about 1/2” and would hammer/dolly while it was still hot. Took a long time and I’m still not finished but I would much rather spend my time metal finishing than sanding.
I have to patch a floorpan and I will flange that, if it wavers a little I don’t care and seam sealer will be the coup de gras for it.

Keep plugging away, she’s coming together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #514 ·
Oh Lord I feel for you. I replaced the bedsides on an old F-250 in a similar fashion way back and had an intimate relationship with pounds of Kittyhair and Bondo.
I am horrible at body work and despise it with a full passion more intense than 2 17 year olds after prom.
And this is why I replaced both quarters with full skins. The only seam that requires any body work is one right at the bottom of the sail panel.
I am not a fan of lap joints or backed joints especially when it will be visible and especially over a distance. The seam will expand/contract differently due to the metal being twice as thick and as you mentioned you can’t work it very well with hammer/dolly.
I butted mine.
I spent hours fitting them and you could not fit a razor blade between them on their final fit up. I am lucky enough to have a TIG and with a .040 tungsten and about 50 amps and a gas lense cup they fused with almost no filler. If I did need filler it was .030 MIG wire. The TIG leaves the weld dead soft and it is much easier to metal finish and excess weld is minimized. I didn’t have to grind it at all, if there was any excess a few strokes with a Vixen brought it down. I ran a bead about 1/2” and would hammer/dolly while it was still hot. Took a long time and I’m still not finished but I would much rather spend my time metal finishing than sanding.
I have to patch a floorpan and I will flange that, if it wavers a little I don’t care and seam sealer will be the coup de gras for it.

Keep plugging away, she’s coming together.
Speaking for myself, I had no idea how to "see and feel" a panel until spending time with the filler and sanders. You see the panels with your hands more than your eyes. It really takes this experience to make it all come together. The bodywork is now much less frustrating to me because I have a better understanding of the tools, materials and methods. Still very time consuming, but it's just doing what I know needs to be done now. Every phase of this project has been an incredible learning experience.
 

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Looks good from here. I do think you should probably get some primer on that thing. I'm kind of kicking myself 7 years later because I left the car in bare metal for a long time prepping it. Looks like a tiny bit of rust is popping on my fender and I think it has to do with when I epoxied the car.....

Kev
 

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Discussion Starter · #519 ·
Looks good from here. I do think you should probably get some primer on that thing. I'm kind of kicking myself 7 years later because I left the car in bare metal for a long time prepping it. Looks like a tiny bit of rust is popping on my fender and I think it has to do with when I epoxied the car.....

Kev
I know. I truly hate it sitting there naked like that. I'm trying to get to that point. The "body work" is taking longer than expected. Hopefully in the next week or 2 I'll be able to put the epoxy on it. I'm in the home stretch on this 1st phase at least. I did cover all the bare metal with phosphoric acid a while back to help protect it while I work through the filler projects. My garage is heated and I try to keep the air as dry as possible in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #520 ·
@novaboy009 pressured me into working on the body tonight. Was supposed to visit my great grandmother at church for her 110th birthday but he said 🤣 that had to wait so…

pretty much finished up the passenger side. Still have some cleanup work to do. Icing for all my slack filler work, feather out some edges, tighten up some lines plus a once over with 180 on the DA. Then it’s clean, mask and epoxy prime…I think.

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