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Thank you kindly Gents. Good to hear from you Ramp. Hope all is well with the homestead? Fires clear out?


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Yeah we are all good and moved back in, technically we are still at a level 3 "get out now" but the three fires that were around my property are extinguished .
National guard came in and took care of business

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Discussion Starter #202
Been working on the car. Mostly sheet-metal stuff. Lot's of flanges to facilitate panels. Welded in a few more cage bars in the trunk and made a couple panels for the trunk pan in front of the fuel cell.

I've been dealing with a very trying and embarrassing issue related to my fuel-cell can fab. Once i completed the sheet metal for the can, the cell would not go into it. I may have mentioned earlier that the fuel cell dimensions are not stable top to bottom. Without the tin, I could squeeze the cell in without much trouble. With the tin, no-Bueno. The bottom of the cell is 1/2" bigger, lengthwise, than the top. I made the cage to match the top of the cell, which closely matched the specified dimensions. After calling the mfgr. and searching for alternatives, I've decided to just rip the can in half, widen it by an inch, and patch the sheet metal. Bummer. I'm kicking my own butt for this screw-up. Modifying the can, assuming I can make it happen, will be easier and cheaper than starting over. That "mod" is on hold. I'm planning on finishing up as much panel fab as possible plus putting the re-pop quarters on 1st.

The tedious flange work is time consuming and does not make for a great picture show. Here are some decent pics of the stuff I've been doing since my last post.

410533

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Looking good! I love all the fabrication work, especially the sheet metal stuff. I am just starting to get my feet wet with that. With all the flanges you're making a shrinker & stretcher would be really handy.
 

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I was thinking the relief cuts you made on the vertical parts of your flanges could have been avoided by shrinking or stretching that side to make the curve, but I'll bet it was easier to fit by just cutting.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
I was thinking the relief cuts you made on the vertical parts of your flanges could have been avoided by shrinking or stretching that side to make the curve, but I'll bet it was easier to fit by just cutting.
Yes. I didn’t make that connection until after I hit “post”.

Yeah, I’m not that good with the shrinker and stretcher yet. I can get damn close but I find that I still have to notch them to get them to lie down perfectly. Probably not the right way, but the only way I know to keep moving forward. Flange work is a bitch for me. I lack the patience to enjoy it. I do like the panel work. Wish I had a $4k box brake though. El-cheapo single plane brake sure makes it challenging. A good box brake would save a lot of flange work.


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Oh yeah. Necessary. I have an el-cheapo HF set.


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I bought the Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher for a premium price to find out the are the same as HF but different color. They worked great. Made in China. I used them for the window channels then sold them and got most my money back.
 

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Discussion Starter #209
I bought the Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher for a premium price to find out the are the same as HF but different color. They worked great. Made in China. I used them for the window channels then sold them and got most my money back.
I noticed that before I bought them and just went to HF. They work well but the levers are shorter I think on the HF ones? Last flange making session I had blisters on my right palm. Need a good cheater bar for it.


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I watched the Eastwood video on how to use them before I bought them and the guy doing the demo and his method was more like throwing the weighted levers down rather than forcing them down with muscle. It was a bit of a technique that took me a little while to get used to but it was working. Another thing I found if I muscled the lever down rather than going slow with throwing the lever down it had a tendency to split the metal on certain bends when stretching.
 

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The foot-operated ones are much easier to use. You can build a stand and the lever setup yourself to convert them yourself or buy a set already made that way. You might see if Woodward Fab or one of the other china-tool vendors offers just the pedal and stand setup.
 

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I bought the Eastwood Shrinker/Stretcher for a premium price to find out the are the same as HF but different color. They worked great. Made in China. I used them for the window channels then sold them and got most my money back.
Often the paint color is all that's different, but not always. For example Harbor Freight, Woodward Fab, and Eastwood all offer the same bead roller, but they come with different die sets and Eastwood puts a slightly better handle on the tensioner. Most of the time you can just go for the cheapest of the bunch and expect the same tool, but do look at the details just in case. There are also some minor differences in customer service and local availability.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
Let’s see now...

Ordered and received my new trans and bell housing. Took the rest of the week off to make another push on the car.

Hopefully will be able to finish the panels for the “back seat” / 4-link area plus fill in the holes in the package tray. Maybe, just maybe I can put down some primer but that’s probably a stretch. I don’t seem to work as fast as I’d like. Wish me luck.




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Let’s see now...

Ordered and received my new trans and bell housing. Took the rest of the week off to make another push on the car.

Hopefully will be able to finish the panels for the “back seat” / 4-link area plus fill in the holes in the package tray. Maybe, just maybe I can put down some primer but that’s probably a stretch. I don’t seem to work as fast as I’d like. Wish me luck.




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That is one nice package to get! Good luck on your crunch session.
 
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