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Discussion Starter #181
Rigged it in there, fiddled with measurements, levels, shimming and clamping. Tacked it in and started making the mounts. A little tricky because it needs to come back out and then drop back in. The top of the tank is 4” above the trunk floor.








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I also think the first positioning looked better, and would still be plenty low center
Look at your "post # 174 = last picture" . . .

and, then look at "post # 179 = above , last picture " . . . . . . . . . . . ..

I think (in the long term) , you'll like the # 174 , results BETTER .

just my 2cents . . . . . jim
 

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Ok . . . . . just talking here . . . .

about the "tank mounting frame" . . . . . you don't want too close off those bottom ends (on the square tube) . . . . . . . . . ? I think I would , cap them off .

That's just me . . . . . great job , again .

jim
 
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Discussion Starter #185
Look at your "post # 174 = last picture" . . .

and, then look at "post # 179 = above , last picture " . . . . . . . . . . . ..

I think (in the long term) , you'll like the # 174 , results BETTER .

just my 2cents . . . . . jim
That’s the way it’s going in. I mocked up both ways to check but decided on “drop in” method. It’s cleaner that way.


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Discussion Starter #186
Ok . . . . . just talking here . . . .

about the "tank mounting frame" . . . . . you don't want too close off those bottom ends (on the square tube) . . . . . . . . . ? I think I would , cap them off .

That's just me . . . . . great job , again .

jim
Yes I will. I have to pull the frame back out to finish weld it and pan it in. I’ll close them up when I do that. I only did that because I saw some others like that. Makes sense to 45 those corners rather than a hard 90 I think.


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You sure are making things 'look easy' . . . . . we're still watching

jim
 

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Discussion Starter #188
You sure are making things 'look easy' . . . . . we're still watching

jim
Thank you. I don’t know about easy. I’m sitting here thinking about all the stuff I have to do to check this task off the list. Interesting things to consider when doing one of these.

1. The polyethylene fuel cells are not dimensionally accurate. Mine is out of square by 1/4” at least. That top hoop is surprisingly square. The bottom of the cell does not fit easily yet there is 1/4” gap all around the top.

2. The mounts for the cage have to be made so the assembly can be dropped in. At least if you do it like I did which is to get everything tacked and then remove it to weld and pan it. I can’t imagine panning that thing in the car. At least not if I didn’t have to.

3. It’s large and bulky. Wrestling that thing, especially with the cell in it, was a pain. The initial mock up was tricky trying to figure out how to clamp it and shim it into the spot you want. All the mounts are now engineered for an easy drop in where I will have access to weld it, which becomes restricted when the sheet metal goes on.


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Discussion Starter #189
Welded it up added Jim’s caps on the bottom tubes. Ground all the outside welds flat. Have to make the top bars + brackets to bolt them down. Prime it and make the tin. Seems like another opportunity for the bead roller huh?




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Looks really good . . to me .
Then, would you know what u'r cell = full of fuel weigh , plus weigh your frame before install .
May never need that info . . . but, then you would know (and not have to guess ) .
................... (it's a slow day) .................
just stacking fire wood ; no car work .

. . jim
 

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Discussion Starter #191
Looks really good . . to me .
Then, would you know what u'r cell = full of fuel weigh , plus weigh your frame before install .
May never need that info . . . but, then you would know (and not have to guess ) .
................... (it's a slow day) .................
just stacking fire wood ; no car work .

. . jim
190# roughly.


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Lookin good . . . . . I kinda like doing these kind of projects (makes me have too Think ) ,

sometimes . . . . .

you are doing great work . . . . jim
 
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Discussion Starter #194
Trimmed and fit the sheet metal, punched and drilled all the plug weld holes, sanded off the mill scale on the frame, pre-primed all the weld areas and welded the pans to the cage. Still more to do. In hindsight, $1600 for an ATL cell sounds fair, if you got the $. I’ve got 24 hours into the fabrication so far. Another 12 by the time I have it in paint. Probably $120 in steel and $200 for the poly Jaz cell is what I’ve got in materials. I know the paint is going to be $60. Now I hope I can get the cell into it. Saving that cliffhanger for tomorrow.








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Discussion Starter #195
Still working on the fuel cell...Thinking forward, I found the following front suspension components at CPP. I called up their tech line to confirm fitment/components and they were very helpful. Basically there are 2 kits for a complete front suspension. A C5 spindle/brake kit and a tubular control arm/shock kit. The shock kit comes with Viking dual adjustable shocks and springs. They recommended 450# springs for an LS Iron block with AC. This combination seems to balance my performance expectations with my budget tolerance. The only warning the tech offered was the possibility of caliper to wheel interference. He sent me a drawing which seems to indicate the caliper extends roughly 0.75" past the rotor face? I've purchased (long ago) Billet Specialties 17x8 front wheels but I forget what the backspace is, not that I think that's the difference. I guess it comes down do the spoke placement relative to the wheel flange. I have read where people have had to use wheel spacers on the front to clear the C5 calipers.

409701


409702
 

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Discussion Starter #196
Spent all day yesterday making and welding in the bottom corner flanges. Just have to weld the bottom pan to the flanges from the inside and the fabrication part is done.






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Discussion Starter #197
Welded up the bottom, dressed all welds and primed the box. Now I have a bunch of work to do before I can weld it in.

Just got a message that I’ve reached the picture upload limit of Tapatalk for the month. Have to post from the PC.


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