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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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Mark, You're probably aware of this... but I was looking at your photo (shown below) of the carb's linkage set-up and noticed that the TV cable is not adjusted/set at the throttle. I also use the same type of universal TV cable.

Please be sure to correctly adjust the TV cable prior to your first drive or you will quickly burn up your 700R4 transmission. I just wanted to give you a "heads up".

P.S. Great looking build!
 

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
awesome project... and progress...
Thank you LSCustoms.

Mark, You're probably aware of this... but I was looking at your photo (shown below) of the carb's linkage set-up and noticed that the TV cable is not adjusted/set at the throttle. I also use the same type of universal TV cable.

Please be sure to correctly adjust the TV cable prior to your first drive or you will quickly burn up your 700R4 transmission. I just wanted to give you a "heads up".

P.S. Great looking build!
Hey Mike, yeah I just got the cable snapped on for now. I will be bringing over a friend who built my 700r4 to do the final adjustments. I'm not comfortable just winging it on my own. Thank you for the comments.
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Nice work and awesome build thread!

You covered about 15 topics that I have worried about and subconsciously "forgotten" till "when I get to it, I'll deal with it". The trim pins on window channels for example...It seems I've seen somewhere that people will delete the trim (and pins) all-together. Same for drip-rail on the roof. I'll have to break out the blaster...again to get all the bondo out of mine.

I'm curious about a couple things on my car's body and wondering if you noticed the same thing on yours?

1. The quarter panels have small braze (bronze I think) welds just at the corner where they meet the inner structure right at the lower corner of the rear side windows. Did you notice that on your car?

2. My car is a 74 and I think the factory quality of work was in the crapper around the time my car was assembled. May have been a Friday car. Spot welds were inaccurately placed, sub-frame welds were full of porosity...like no gas at all, in critical locations. The biggest concern I have is a 1/4" gap on the lower driver side at the front bulkhead where the major body structures (floor pan, firewall, cowl, body mount and rocker panel) come together. I initially freaked-out thinking the car had been in a collision (and I suppose it's still a possibility) but I can find no other evidence of that. In reading your thread, I looked closely at your cars under-body (blush) and did not notice anything similar. I'm scratching my head on this one, but I don't like it at all. I did not notice it until I got the car on the rotisserie, which was after I had most of the tub and cage work done. I was so worried about this that I looked up the dimenional specs on the sub-frame and checked them. Thank goodness they matched up!

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I'm seriously thinking that since this was the last year of production for this model, the factory was just throwing them together and kicking them out the door. I'll have to dig into the vin and see if I can come up with a production date.
 

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1969 Nova . . 2dr . . Chino Valley,Az USA
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I'll have to dig into the vin and see if I can come up with a production date.

kimmer71 . . . . just look on your " Cowl Tag " .......... that gives u the build Date of your Nova .

My 69 is listed as " 7 c " meaning the 7 = July (month) ; c = 3rd week (then the year of what ever car you are looking at . . . . simple .

Sorry , Mark for jumping in , buy he kinda asked .

and , your build is looking Great , keep going Mark .
 
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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #126 · (Edited)
Thank you for your comments.
#1 I noticed it as you mentioned and also at the top/rear corner of the window where the sail and roof meet in the rain gutter.
#2 See the pic, my problem area was up higher where the all meet above the mount. A big 1/2" gap where everything came together. It was factory because they just filled it with monkey poop.

Let me know if you need any pics of specific area's. I took lots of photos during tear down that I don't have in an album yet.


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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
Tacked on the lip to attach the dash bezel from my old dash. The dash replacement is for Camaros and Novas except for where the bezel mounts. A SNS member pointed that out but I don't remember who. Make sure to keep that part of you original dash.

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Mark, You're probably aware of this... but I was looking at your photo (shown below) of the carb's linkage set-up and noticed that the TV cable is not adjusted/set at the throttle. I also use the same type of universal TV cable.

Please be sure to correctly adjust the TV cable prior to your first drive or you will quickly burn up your 700R4 transmission. I just wanted to give you a "heads up".

P.S. Great looking build!
 

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I was originally thinking the same thing about J Mark's carb needing the correct Holley Geometry Corrector Bracket (20-121)... but then I learned that some of the new Holley and Quick Fuel carbs now come with an updated throttle bracket that already has the correct geometry for the 2004R/700r4... as well as the Turbo 350 (like the one shown on the Quick Fuel carb in the post above and the photo below).
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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
I did change the throttle lever not that long ago. My QF is a few years old now and the throttle lever was not compatible with the Holley 20-121 bracket. QF told me I could order the latest lever with the right geometry $15. Not a problem since it is held on by a nut.
 

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1974 Nova SS
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Tacked on the lip to attach the dash bezel from my old dash. The dash replacement is for Camaros and Novas except for where the bezel mounts. A SNS member pointed that out but I don't remember who. Make sure to keep that part of you original dash.

View attachment 398523
Another golden nugget of advice! I never would have known this. Thanks for the reply on the body stuff too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #132 ·
Rebuilt the door hinges and shimmed the fenders. Gaps came out pretty good, not show car spec's but I'm happy. The whole changing body mounts and making sure the proper spacers were at the firewall it lined up with very little issues. My main complaint is how the rockers on both sides are pretty sloppy from the factory. The driver side rocker is off front and rear as in sticking out past the body surface and the front rocker on the passenger side. I'm way past that phase to make any corrections to the rockers. They were solid, if they were rotted I could of corrected by replacing them. I'm convinced I'm stuck doing the body work with some coaching from a neighbor down the street. It's still just the epoxy sealer coat. Just tapping out minor dings then on to the high build. After a lot of tips I see why I just couldn't get things flat. Tip One, stay away from using power tools for sanding/blocking!

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Installed a B&M plate style trans cooler. Realized that one of the hoses coming of the trans was hitting the tunnel. Had to add some 45's for clearance. Still deciding if I will put the radiator into the loop. B&M claims this 2200 BTU cooler does not require it but the cooler the better.

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Mike - 74 Nova Baltimore, MD
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I used the same B&M trans cooler. I do not have a trans temp guage, but no problems of overheating with a 2800 stall converter after several years of street driving. My trans fluid still looks bright red with no burnt odor.

I chose not to plumb the trans cooling lines thru the radiator. Reason being... if the trans cooler tank located inside the radiator were to rupture, by the time you noticed the problem... it would be too late. Your trans fluid would be contaminated with antifreeze and visa versa.
 
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Built a 383 stroker with all intentions of dropping it in a Gen III Nova. As the engine was rapping up I finally found a decent roller. Check out the engine build phase.

Block – 85’ 350 4 bolt, bored .030 over w/torque plates, zero decked to 9”, align honed mains and typical stroker clearance machine work on oil pan rail and bottom of cylinder bores.

Bottom End – Scat 9000 series stroker crank external balance, Scat 5.7” forged stroker rods and Speed Pro flat top hyper pistons. Rotating assembly balanced.

Cam/Valve Train – Lunati Voodoo Retro Roller Cam and Hydraulic Roller Lifters. Duration 282 In/290 Ex, Lift .535 In/.550 Ex, LSA 110. Comp Ultra Gold 1.5:1 Roller Rockers. Comp 7.15” Push Rods.

Heads – EQ Cast Iron RH350, 200cc Intake Runner, 72cc Chamber, ARP 7/16” Rocker Studs, AFR Rod Guides, Ferrea Stainless Swirl Polished Valves 2.02 In/1.60 Ex. Dual Spring w/Damper.

Air/Fuel – Black Powder Coated Edlebrock RPM Air Gap Intake, Quickfuel Slayer 750 CFM Carb w/Vac Sec.

Ignition – MSD Blaster 3 Coil, Professional Products Power Fire I Distributor.

Calculated Static CR of 10.1:1. Hope to get about 450 hp out of the build.
Currently broke in on a engine run stand. Timing is 16 initial and 36 overall. At 900 Rpm Vacuum is sitting at about 14 hg. Running 92 Octane and using NGK UR4 plugs.

Please check out the engine build pics. Also a link to YouTube with the engine on the run stand.



Oddly enough, I have the same block and bottom end setup with hydraulic roller cam, air gap manifold with 750 double pump. Love the dyno!
 

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #136 ·
Finally got out and picked up a driveline. I did not have one so I found a custom shop to build one. Took the measurements in, got a quote and placed an order. Kevin knew exactly what to do. It was ready in 2 days. 700r4 slip yoke, 1350 u-joints and 3" steel tube. Fit perfect. For the NorCal and Central Valley guys look up K&M Driveline in Modesto, CA.

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
After a lot of searching I found a company that is a one stop shop for rebuilding/restoring wiring harnesses. They had all the different gauge Packard 56 connectors and housings, all the solid GM color wiring (not sure about some of the striped wire) and wire by the foot. All gauges of TXL, GXL and SXL to include GPT primary wire. Check out CE Auto Electric Gilbert, AZ they got a lot.

My dash harness looks good but the under hood ignition/lighting harnesses were crispy. I'm going the build my own route since the savings is good for my budget. Got a start on the new harness but had to give up today when my hands could no longer crimp. Got about 8 more wire to terminate for under the hood. The only draw back but I will get past it. Popeye arms when done, damn!

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1967 Nova SS
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Just read through your build. Great detail and informative. Going to be a blast to drive and beautiful Ride. Gooooood Work.
 

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
Been hassling with a lot of different Packard 56 crimper dies. Thought I would share what's working for me. After different dies I found the MSD 3506 set works the best but not without mods. The male Packard 56 has little wings to keep the terminals parallel in the fire wall block. The dies are too wide for the male terminal and just crush them. The females do not have those wings so no problem. If you take a 1/16th off the top die that curls the tabs on the insulation side of the crimp it will work perfect without spending hundreds on the hard to find factory crimpers. The dies work with most crimper frames out there. The pic shows a crimp with the mod. If this has already been covered on another thread I apologize.

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72, 2 Dr, 383, 700r4
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Discussion Starter · #140 · (Edited)
I've been slacking on the postings and pics. Been dealing with getting the wiring wrapped up. Did pick a pair of original 67 Camaro seats up that were for sale. Got them for $700 and I can't be happier with the purchase. Typical underneath rust on springs and rails but totally sound. My 72 had a bench, so I will be looking at the site to help me with the in-board bracket next to the tunnel.

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