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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
ok, i think i got it. here you all can post your comments and suggestion.
So now that I figured out how to get my images to show up.

Here it is:




Right now its all stock 400 series with an after market radio(No dash cuts!) Hoping to just do weekend/smaller projects until i get around to the motor and paint. Ultimately it will be a nice driver. Body seems to be in good shape. trunk metal looks nice and is coated. under body looks straight and intact. It has some small bubbles around the wheel wells. Somebody ground and filled the A pillar/roof line and it flaked, looks like a broom fell on the roof right over the driver door. I'm feeling like it may have been in a front end accident as the hood is slightly off and I'm not sure why the front window would need to be replaced. The current paint is an over spray. The window replacement happened after the paint and now the rubber doesn't line up with where the paint ends and there's about 1/4" of metal/primer showing above it. Engine and trans recently rebuilt. Interior in V. good condition, not sure how much is original. At any rate not a fan of the bench seats. I bought this car because it seemed to be nice enough base to do my own thing without feeling bad for altering a car that was too original.

Current plan and order of upgrades.

First up is a carb. rebuild since there's JB weld holding the valve wide open. Ill post a pic once i start tear down, pretty hilarious. Runs just needs lots of pedal. Also Ill be replacing the headlight switch, the dash lights only come on with the interior dome light. Hoping there's not too much "custom" wiring from the aftermarket radio, and it's just a bad switch

Save goal 1, $4k: CBR front, all of it, arms, rack and pinion, steering column (IDIDIT), get some disk spindles. Upgrade to power brakes.

Save goal 2, $4k: Then their rear tri-4 link and frame connectors, s-10 rear end, hopefully find one with disks. I might skip the tri-4 link and just swap in the rear end with some new leafs, coil overs and the frame connectors, mostly want the disk brakes. Don't think I'll need anything too beefy for a driver.

When I can get it: Wheels and tires, nothing crazy, no mini tubs. Some interior, mainly buckets, maybe a console, eventually probably get rid of the rear seats, new gauge cluster, radio delete w/gauges. I'd like a 3 point seat belt.

Save goal 3 $3k+: LS, mild/street cam and head work, would like around 400hp/tq. I think I can get a engine/trans for around $1500. CBR Headers $1500. Choosing the CBR front suspension as it is made for this swap. Ultimately I'd like to get it all squared and blueprinted, etc. I plan on having this car for awhile.

Then maybe, if I win the lottery, a tear down/metal repair. I hope it's as nice as it seems hahahaha. Id really like the SS peak trim/molding and delete the side trim/molding. Currently thinking stock lines 2-tone Monaco blue with white top white trunk cove. Or custom line(@ the peak trim) 2-tone red top/hood/trunk, with black sides & trunk cove. If not I'll at least be getting a touch up. Forrest green with tan is so 90s.

I'll post more pics once I'm off work when it's sunny out.

Nothings in stone and I'm pretty new to this. I did take 2 years of auto in HS and have done maintenance on my modern vehicles. I can't design an engine but I could tear it apart and put it back together and it would probably run.

All suggestions and comments welcome.
 

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Cbr

Do you have their tri-4 link rear?

I am not using their back half setup. just their uppers and lowers and the Viking coil overs. I am running a high horse 327 Auto Gear M-22 Moser 12 bolt rear differential. I have had my car since 1986 with the old school suspension. it is not even in the same ballpark it amazing how it drives now!!
 

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Nice start

You sound like me with your list of wants and desires, it never ends. Its a nice looking car you found there, it should be a good foundation for what you want to do. Mine is also a 63 sport coupe and it too, unbeknownst to me at the time had seen some front end damage that I discovered later on when I saw that the firewall & toe board on the drivers side had been pounded back into position, sort of, by someone who saved it. Since the car had been modified over the years by various owners, I have no regrets about tearing into it and doing what I want with it, since it was far from original anyways. Just wish I could find the build sheet...:)
If it was me, I would take care of the suspension first, since stock ChevII frontends are a bit inadequate and benefit greatly from an upgrade.
 

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Nice car to start with..Sounds like you’ve got a plan to work towards and goals to achieve.. As for disc brake options, there many ways to go. You’ll need to be careful with some of the kits that are available as there are some that are compatible with the CBR system and some that are not.. If dropped spindles are also a part of the plan then you definitely need to make sure that the disc and spindle options are compatible.. There are some OEM conversions that are budget friendly and work with the full CBR system.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Nice car to start with..Sounds like you’ve got a plan to work towards and goals to achieve.. As for disc brake options, there many ways to go. You’ll need to be careful with some of the kits that are available as there are some that are compatible with the CBR system and some that are not.. If dropped spindles are also a part of the plan then you definitely need to make sure that the disc and spindle options are compatible.. There are some OEM conversions that are budget friendly and work with the full CBR system.
I was hoping there were some OEM disk spindles available. That said I wouldn't mind a 1-2" drop. I believe the CBR coil overs are adjustable as well. Figure 1-2 with the spindle and adjust to taste with the coil over.
 

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Great looking project and plan. Looking forward to seeing the transformation as it happens
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I think first things first I'm going to get the Right Stuff 4 wheel disk, power, 2" dropped spindles kit. I see there's a couple threads about their kits and those people seemed satisfied with the product. Any options?

Looks like I'll have to do the steering when I upgrade the motor as the CBR rack and pinion kit states it doesn't work with my I6.
 

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Call cbr about your brakes

Call Chuck Church at cbr about your brakes and spindles you will want zero offset brakes and I do not know if they will work with drop spindles. Chuck handles rite stuff too and he will give good advice even if you dont buy from him
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Call Chuck Church at cbr about your brakes and spindles you will want zero offset brakes and I do not know if they will work with drop spindles. Chuck handles rite stuff too and he will give good advice even if you dont buy from him
this is the kit I'm looking at. I'm assuming the spindles are stock geometry except for the 2" drop. Ill certainly be calling Chuck and Right Stuff once I'm ready to purchase the kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I blew up the 194 (head gasket). Downhill with a PG going MAYBE 65mph, lol. I guess retirement can wait :)LOL:I wont ever be able to retire.) 400sbc, 700r4, 10bolt 8.5. rebuilders, $6k at CBR, before rebuilding any of that. It feels like I have to do it all right now. New engine needs a better trans, better trans & engine means better rear end and new drive shaft(also new front end trans links, shifter, column, etc since CBR has a whole rack/suspension kit), extra tq/hp probably needs bigger wheels, bigger wheels probably mean a minitub. Where do I start? I guess at the back? Bit overwhelmed, was hoping to do this more in stages. Can I rebuild a rear end? How hard is it?
 

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Build a car that is within your budget. A SBC is much less expensive than an LS motor if you don't need 500 HP or fuel injection. I see no need for a minitub or bigger wheels/tires. It's a light car and will hook just fine with 400 Hp and a tire that will fit in the stock wheel well. My car has the CPP minisubframe and a 1 inch sway bar with S10 disc brakes and handles and stops (and goes) perfectly fine for a street car. I love the high dollar stuff too, but you can certainly build a car that doesn't break the bank and is fun to drive. I also see no need for power brakes or power steering as long as you don't add too much weight to the car, and keep a 16 inch diameter steering wheel. My car happens to have a TCI 4 link, which the previous owner installed, but if I was spending my money, I would do a 10 bolt or Ford 8.8, leaf springs, and some good adjustable shocks. It's a light car, you don't need a Dana 60 and these rear ends are cheap and plentiful. Add a Caltrac bar or similar if wheel hop is an issue. I would worry about the paint and interior last. Make it run and drive good, then blow it apart and do paint and interior, trim etc., or don't. I like how it looks now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks for the reply. I'm looking to build the SBC 407 from the Vizard books, claims over 500hp/500tq with a pretty nice overall curve. With that I think I'm going to need wider tires. I've just decided to bite the bullet and do minitubs and rebuild the 8.5 w/ cbr four link first. Then buy a rebuilt trans and driveshaft, last get the motor built. Not sure Ill ever be able to get the body/paint done, but at least I'll be able to drive it. I can do the brakes and front suspension/steering, interior later.
 
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