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Discussion Starter #1
Well guys, as some of you may know, I have a 63 Wagon with a 327 and Powerglide in it that I plan to make a daily driver out of. The car drove great from about 2.5 hours away but idle is VERY lumpy and very rich on burning fuel to the point that you cannot even stand 10 feet from it without your eyes burning so bad and not able to breath. I threw a new carb on it (Edelbrock Performer 500 cfm) since the one on it was bad, new fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc. I need to double check timing but either way I think it has much too big of a cam in it since at idle in gear it wants to stall out. I have a 350 in the garage and a TH350 tranny as well that I want to put into it. The only reason I am not using the 327 is even though the old owner said he doesn't know the cam or much about it, he said he THINKS it only has around 20,000 miles but I dont trust what most people say when selling a car so I like to double check myself. Here is the story behind the car and my plans with the 350...
A while back ago I traded a Yamaha YZ125 dirtbike to a kid for a 96 S-10 ext cab pickup with air bags and a sbc 350 and TH350 tranny. Long story short, the truck was NOT what it was supposed to be and I got screwed on it and parted it out by keeping the fuel cell, engine, tranny, B&M shifter and a few other parts. I parted the rest of the truck out for pretty much nothing.
The kid I bought it from said the engine was built for a dirt track car but he bought it newly rebuilt and put it into this truck with only 50 miles on it. He said it had high compression, Voodoo cam, shift kit and stall in the tranny, etc. Since he lied so bad about the truck body and suspension I didn't want to take a chance on this motor and decided to tear it down before throwing it into one of my old cars or trucks.
I got the engine torn down and found it has TRW's (Speed Pro) L2256 .030 over Forged pistons and a Comps Cam Magnum camshaft with 270 duration and 470 lift. It has a nice new comps cam double roller timing gear set on it which will be fine to leave. My plan is to put new lifters, push rods (they fell while pulling it apart), cam, and rockers in it along with a new water pump, oil pump and fuel pump. The cylinder walls have NO ridge and seem to have very little carbon build up on top of the pistons. I can take a rag with a touch of thinner and it wipes right off. The pistons are supposed to have 9.72:1 compression ratio with 64 cc heads I believe. The heads I have are 3998993 which show as 75cc heads NOT 76cc which I didn't know they have 75cc.
I also have two different intakes to use which on the 327 is a Edelbrock Performer RPM and then I have a Weiand Street Avenger I beleive (street something but I cannot find it in Summit or Jegs anymore).
The question I really have here is I want to put in a new cam and lifter kit (hydraulic since I cant afford roller) and then rockers with push rods and valve springs but want to get oppinions on which kit to get? I will break the engine in with the valve springs that are in it now (at least that is what I have always been told to do). When I looked up on the MorTec website about the head casting number it seems these heads are truck type heads and do not flow so great.
Again this car is going to be a daily driver so I need milage but do want to get around 350HP if that is possible, it's going to have a TH350 with 3.08 gears and taller than stock tires. I know I have a LOT of information here but I just wanted to give you guys as much info as possible and explain what I am doing and trying to achieve here so you can help me out the best you can with the info I provided. Also if you think I can get a set of better stock flowing heads with new valves and springs then oppinions on this would be great as well.
Thanks in advance!
 

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what i would do is just install a set of roads lifters and leave everythimg else alone, also use the rpm intake, the lifter will make your cam smaller for driving around plus increase vacuum, your comp ratio is 9.0to1 with those heads so the lifters will make everything work together plus give you the most mpg and torque. And it is ok to use new lifters with old cam not the other way.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds good... You think I may need any kind of small stall converter? Isn't stock 1000-1500 anyways? When pulling the cam I noticed it did take very tiny chips of metal when I pulled it through the bearings and a lobe would kind of hit the cam bearing when passing through but they were VERY tiny slivers or metal and it was on the edge of the lobe. Before putting it back in I will need to bring it to a friend to have him check it out and make sure it all specs out. It looks nice and has wear marks where the lifters rode on it but its only smoother in the middle of the lobes where it hits, not like the outside if that makes any sense. Also I dont know if it's been decked or not. I know when I got the truck the kid said he thought the engine had very high compression like 12 or 12.5:1 but there is no way with these heads and flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs in them. :rolleyes:
Here is a link to the cam I have in it now...
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA-12-211-2&autoview=sku
What do you think about the specs on it and how it may work with the engine by the details I have given? I do not want it to hurt fuel milage. I would think that it's not TOO agressive and only a few steps up from stock but I dont know much about them. :confused:
 

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this is the biggest cam you can run with a stock stall, if you get the roads lifters it will be fine also if i remember 9 to 1 is the lowest compression you can use with this cam but again will be fine with those type of lifters, my friend had issues with a 396 and having to big of cam and the roads lifters solved everything he was unhappy with. he even regained vaccum for his power brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How about springs, rockers and push rods? Any recommendations on these? I am checking out the Rhoads Lifters right now and I am going to seriously consider them.
 

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For springs i would get matching comp cams, they probably sell as kit but i found the kits are more money than getting everything yourself as for pushrods any brand is fine, if you have guide plates make sure they are hardened. Summit has pushrods and roller tip steel rockers, if your looking for a full roller rocker Harland sharps are nice, but i would stick with a 1.5 ratio and another thing get a good true roller timing chain with 3 key ways and you could advance the cam 4 degrees and get more low end torque.
 
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