Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
929 Posts
Its a starting point. my has some rust like yours. just hafta cut it out and replace it. important sure u can do it. :yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
190 Posts
Looks good! A few spots needing more attention than the rest, but a great starting point, it looks like!

Keep us posted :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Not sure about those quarters. Can be very expensive to replace, and doing yourself would probably require extensive work and at least some prior experience. I see the problem goes all the way to the rocker panel. I would check the door jambs too... If rusted through the structural integrity of the body might be compromised.

I mean, every car can be saved, but at what cost and effort? Is it worth it to you? Those are the hard questions.

I see it has buckets and possibly other rare stuff, maybe you could transfer some of these goodies to a cheap body with less rust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I have the new rear quarters came with the car when I bought it I do have to replace the rockers figure go full rockers if I can find em the outer wheel wells are shot if I did the summit tubs could I cut em to work as stock wells cause I gotta keep the rear seat for the kids
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
well first is gonna have to be the rear quarters and the rockers no my inner rockers are not bad but figured why not may just replace outer rocker panels plus i wanna do the rear outer wheel wells so it wont rust anymore lol but i am thinking that i should take the frame out and do the floor pan and rhino line the heck out of the bottom of the car not sure how much rhinoliner cost but its worth it to protect the car from rusting even thinking of doing the inner pannels to so in case the heater core goes out again then the floors are double protected has any one done this before
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
rhino line the heck out of the bottom of the car not sure how much rhinoliner cost but its worth it to protect the car from rusting even thinking of doing the inner pannels to so in case the heater core goes out again then the floors are double protected has any one done this before
Yes the hardcore 4x4 crowd does this on their rigs. My 4x4's aren't hardcore enough, but my next one will be.:yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
also the engine will be popped out for a much heftier 406 with vortech heads and cast crank i got this score from my brother in law i gotta get it aline bored and honed for the aftermarket main caps that where installed not sure what type of cam to use in it yet but i will ponder on this a while since it is machined for a factory roller cam so thinking roller and yes it is a 2 peice rear main seal block also thinking of what intake to get for it but yes im going bigger for sure lol :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
also the engine will be popped out for a much heftier 406 with vortech heads and cast crank i got this score from my brother in law i gotta get it aline bored and honed for the aftermarket main caps that where installed not sure what type of cam to use in it yet but i will ponder on this a while since it is machined for a factory roller cam so thinking roller and yes it is a 2 peice rear main seal block also thinking of what intake to get for it but yes im going bigger for sure lol :D
that sounds kinda odd to me a 400 bloc is not set up for the factory rollar cam
you would need to weld the top of the lifter bosses to get more height then mill them flat plus the front of the block does not have room to correctly install the camthrust plate needed for a factory cam

why would they do that when they could simply use retro fit cam rollar cam and lifter no machining need

could it be a bowetie block or aftermarket block ?
any casting number on the back of the block where the bellhousing bolts up ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
the way were gonna do it is to use 2.2 roller lifters and they fit just fine i will get a cam button have to since it doesnt have the cam plate provision its a 509 casting its a fairly easy mod got it off of nasty z28 all the info and every thing i will post the link here so you guys can read it its pretty kool and also it is a long post so i warn you it is long but let me find it and il get the link up here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
thanks for that you have to go about 10 pages in before you see anything

kinda neat in my small block i ran a 274hr comp , i know the retro lifters are pricey , but when i weigh out time spent / parts and the lift being limited i think i would save and use the reto lifters

cam button works great , i would suggest the timing set that comes with the built in bearing on the back
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
the reason i was gonna do it is its cheap easy and reliable and since im not going wild i should be ok i want to try to get away from flat tappet but im not against flat tappet just wish the new oils where stable enough for them to work properly but now its just to easy to wipe a lobe with the flat tappet cams and i think it sucks gotta go to something that is more expensive.... sory for the ranting just makes me sick to think just because there clunker program didnt work well that they made the oil companies take out the zink and phosphorus beacause the new cats wouldnt handle the zink is this our problem no i dont think so they should of researched the deal lol :yes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
i would 100% agree hyd roller cam is the way to go , i would never build another flat tapped engine for myself ,,my 427 was a low budget motor the only thing i really spent money on was the hydraulic roller cam set up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
139 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
i know that they can go flat to but i wont have to use any speacial oils but like i said i may go flat tappet just thinking about going ahead and using roller just going to have to wait and see what the future holds lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
700 Posts
I have heard of roller cams going flat too. Lift and spring pressure is what will kill any cam prematurely.
this is very true if you look at the spring specs on the comp cams retro style cams they are very low , i have found that this limets the high rpm , i found if you use the comp specs the upper limet is a little over 5 grand rpm
on engine going above this i have upped to the spring pressure 40 or 50 pounds
this will give another grand of rpm , but will shorten the life of cam and lifter after only a season of raceing in a 427 bb with a small blower you could see the rollers wearing into the cam , this surprise me art frist ,but it is because of the cast cam l they use on a reto cam you do not need a bronze dist gear drive

but it is extremly rare to have a failure using the stock stuff spring psi will only be about 100 pounds and the oem lifters are lighter then a retro ones
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top