mustang II front end for 64 wagon

Don't let the initial cost fool ya. You need inner fenders, new steering linkages, brake lines, paint/ PC, etc. It really adds up pretty quickly. I think the CPP stuff is the best for the money.

that's good to know...that's the kind of info I'm looking for. What is CPP?

By the time you straighten everything out, your looking at about 4,000 for a mustang II front end.
You can price a cpp setup at; http://www.classicperform.com/
-dd

this is $2600 plus shipping. What else do i need to consider here? Steering box for power steering? power booster for the brakes?

This car needs to drive really nicely as my wife will be driving it as much as i do...

Chucks kit you can get with power steering.

You can use stock pump or one of the newer same pumps. There are all kinds of brake kits out there. Just depends on how deep your pockets are.

270win said:

this is $2600 plus shipping. What else do i need to consider here? Steering box for power steering? power booster for the brakes?

This car needs to drive really nicely as my wife will be driving it as much as i do...

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I'm not sure if you are referring to my kit or not so I'll speak up. Not everyone needs a column replacement, and not everyone buys the tubular crossmember. Some people even use the kit with the rear mounted strut rods as well. All this chips away at the final cost, and yet, gives you rack/pinion steering.

Like I mentioned you can use the tubular lowers by themselves to improve the steering and handling with the stock steering still in use. You don't need to purchase the whole deal to get improvements you can do a little at a time.

67 church said:

I'm not sure if you are referring to my kit or not so I'll speak up. That kit pictured above with billet steel steering arms instead of the chevelle arms is around 2400 plus shipping/handling. That is with all the bells and whistles, so to speak. Not everyone needs a column replacement, and not everyone buys the tubular crossmember. Some people even use the kit with the rear mounted strut rods as well. All this chips away at the final cost, and yet, gives you rack/pinion steering.

Like I mentioned you can use the tubular lowers by themselves to improve the steering and handling with the stock steering still in use. You don't need to purchase the whole deal to get improvements you can do a little at a time.

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Sorry for the confusion, I didn't attach the link to CPP's page. I definitely want to do it all at one time rather than bit by bit. The car will get a frame off and be blasted down to bare metal and rebuilt from there piece by piece. I guess I'm just trying to get an idea what it's going to cost for everything I need to have a new front end that handles on my car with power disk brakes and power rack and pinion steering...as well as a decent ride. I'm going to use -1" Caltracs split mono's and bars on the rear suspension.

So basically I'm just trying to make sure that I'm considering everything needed as I lay out my planning for this build. The car I just finished was my first total restoration and I did some really stupid things....lots of stuff twice trying to save money or poorly planning the order of work to be done. I could've saved about $5K on that one had I planned it and gone with the right stuff to begin with.

Very good, I understand where you are coming from. Basically with our kit you would need to price out a brake system of your choice. My kit can be purchased with or without power steering. You will need a GM power steering pump and the lines to connect the two.

67 church said:

Very good, I understand where you are coming from. Basically with our kit you would need to price out a brake system of your choice. My kit can be purchased with or without power steering. You will need a GM power steering pump and the lines to connect the two.

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I'm thinking about the GM Perf. serpentine setup with AC and power steering. I'll probably powder coat or ceramic coat it for appearance.

So do you have a kit with inner fenders? I'm going sbc and I want to use headers...but not rams horn or through fender headers. Shortys would be great. I mention that to try to prevent and unforseen incompatibility issues...I wanna do this once!

DesertDeuce said:

By the time you straighten everything out, your looking at about 4,000 for a mustang II front end.
You can price a cpp setup at; http://www.classicperform.com/
-dd

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A shop could install a checkered front clip for less than $4000.00 For that you get less weight, Disk brakes, r&p steering, more room, and a superior suspension geometry.

Argrandawg said:

A shop could install a checkered front clip for less than $4000.00

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Not around here boss.

I did a quick add up on the checkered racing stuff. The initial cost seems to be around 2,500 hundred for the basic kit + sway bar and inner fenders and shipping. I figure that would be the minimum someone would buy.
I dont think this kit included the fender supports that go on the fire wall. But i still think there are some hidden costs on it, so add in a new master cylinder(because hes probably got the single resevoir one now) and brake booster + prop valve. Also around here if you were to have a shop install it your looking at around 90 dollars an hour labor. Then you still have to get it alligned, so I still stand behind my estimate. This kit seems like a good deal if you were to install it your self; which i still think is atleast 3,300+. I'm not saying mustang II clips are a bad deal, im just trying to help 270win and others make an discision that works for them.
-dd

I usually do all the work on my cars myself.. I do have the single reservoir which seems pretty marginal at best.

270win said:

I'm thinking about the GM Perf. serpentine setup with AC and power steering. I'll probably powder coat or ceramic coat it for appearance.

So do you have a kit with inner fenders? I'm going sbc and I want to use headers...but not rams horn or through fender headers. Shortys would be great. I mention that to try to prevent and unforseen incompatibility issues...I wanna do this once!

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Chucks kit uses the stock front clip, there for no need for inner fender panels:no:his kit also allows the use of a rear sump oil pan, headers won't be an issue several companies make chassis exit headers for the early nova.

270win said:

I usually do all the work on my cars myself.. I do have the single reservoir which seems pretty marginal at best.

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Single reservoir will not work with disc brakes it will need to be replaced either way you go.

DesertDeuce said:

Not around here boss.

I did a quick add up on the checkered racing stuff. The initial cost seems to be around 2,500 hundred for the basic kit + sway bar and inner fenders and shipping. I figure that would be the minimum someone would buy.
I dont think this kit included the fender supports that go on the fire wall. But i still think there are some hidden costs on it, so add in a new master cylinder(because hes probably got the single resevoir one now) and brake booster + prop valve. Also around here if you were to have a shop install it your looking at around 90 dollars an hour labor. Then you still have to get it alligned, so I still stand behind my estimate. This kit seems like a good deal if you were to install it your self; which i still think is atleast 3,300+. I'm not saying mustang II clips are a bad deal, im just trying to help 270win and others make an discision that works for them.
-dd

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When you build one you let me know. I don't have anywhere near $3300.00 in mine. I even went with CA inner fenders. Master cylinders should be upgraded anyway so that should not even factor into it. Autozone has MC for disc/ drum or disc/disc for under $100.00 so where is the rest of the $$$$
As I said,,,,,When you build one let me know.

Argrandawg said:

When you build one you let me know. I don't have anywhere near $3300.00 in mine. I even went with CA inner fenders. Master cylinders should be upgraded anyway so that should not even factor into it. Autozone has MC for disc/ drum or disc/disc for under $100.00 so where is the rest of the $$$$
As I said,,,,,When you build one let me know.

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I stand behind my figures, I did the math for what it would cost me personally to do it. The master cylinder upgrade is a given, but that is also a cost that must be changed for the upgrade so I WILL include it. Things may be different than you for various reasons geographics, parts on hand etc etc. For instance im all out of grease in my grease gun so I gota go buy some thats an added cost to the project. I would also probably have to go buy some new fasteners because i might as well put fresh strong stuff on, thats another handful of dollars. I also dont feel to comfortable sawzalling my stock 63 steering shaft, so a replacement column is in order for me and I didnt even include those #'s. I would also have to call a tow truck or borrow a truck and trailer to get the alignment. Seriously add up your expenses and let me know.