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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

This past Saturday I went to get my 1970 Nova SS out of storage. When I opened the airtight storage bag and gave a quick once over, there was an "absorbed" puddle on the cardboard I put under the car before I zip up the bag. It seemed to be directly under the master cylinder. I took a closer look and sure enough, it looks like the rear seal of the master cylinder is leaking (please see pics). Unfortunately, I don't have a climate controlled garage during the Wisconsin winter, and assume the cold weather this year finally took it's toll.

404181


404180


In poking around on the web, it looks like this is a direct replacement:

Disc Brake Master Cylinder w/ Bleeders

However, I'm wondering if it's time to take the next step in upgrading that area of the car? For example:

Wilwood Black Out Master, Booster, and Prop Valve Combo

Would that Wilwood system be a good fit? Does anyone know of other options that would be a drop in at this point without too many headaches?

Info on the car that might help... Blueprint Engines 383 405hp/440tq, TH400, 14" ET Mag wheels, stock front discs / rear drums. Looks like I have an 11" power booster and the current master cylinder is 1-1/8" bore.

As an FYI, I WILL eventually be upgrading the entire wheel brake package (most likely 17"s with disc package to fit), but am not ready to take that financial dive quite yet. I just figured, if I'm pulling out the master cylinder, would it be a good time to upgrade? At the end of the day, if it makes more sense to buy all of the upgraded brake equipment at one time as a package, sometime down the road, I'm fine with the stock replacement master cylinder right now. At least the car will be driveable in a couple weeks.

Thanks in advance for all the comments and feedback from people that have been faced with this dilemma!
 

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If I was sure I was going to upgrade the brakes eventually I'd probably go with a stock replacement right now until I could do the brakes and wilwood master cylinder set up. I have the wilwood combination with their brakes on my 65. I didn't put a booster on mine so no power brakes. I did go with the 12.19 rotors. My car stops fine. All my friends told me I was crazy when I did mine but after driving it it was a non issue. I did put a small converter in to keep it from pushing at red lights and such. My buddy is building a 60 Biscayne right now and he's doing the same thing. Most cars now have power brakes. The manual brakes do feel a little different but the Wilwood black master cylinder combination does look good when bolted up without the booster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Looks like you're probably going to need a booster too...
wolfmantough, thanks. Do you happen to know if the ID of the hole on the front of the booster is smaller than the ID of the hole on the back of the master cylinder? I'm hoping that's the case, and the leak was slow enough that it just hit that lip and ran down the front of the booster. What do you think? TIA!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Folks,

Is it necessary to open the bleeders at the bottom of the new master cylinder if I'll be bench bleeding it and flushing / bleeding all four corners of the car?

Also, the Nova Chilton manual says to bleed LR, RR, RF, LF. Is that correct? I've always done RR first and then LR.

Thanks!
 

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Folks,

Is it necessary to open the bleeders at the bottom of the new master cylinder if I'll be bench bleeding it and flushing / bleeding all four corners of the car?

Also, the Nova Chilton manual says to bleed LR, RR, RF, LF. Is that correct? I've always done RR first and then LR.

Thanks!
Hey all,

This past Saturday I went to get my 1970 Nova SS out of storage. When I opened the airtight storage bag and gave a quick once over, there was an "absorbed" puddle on the cardboard I put under the car before I zip up the bag. It seemed to be directly under the master cylinder. I took a closer look and sure enough, it looks like the rear seal of the master cylinder is leaking (please see pics). Unfortunately, I don't have a climate controlled garage during the Wisconsin winter, and assume the cold weather this year finally took it's toll.

View attachment 404181

View attachment 404180

In poking around on the web, it looks like this is a direct replacement:

Disc Brake Master Cylinder w/ Bleeders

However, I'm wondering if it's time to take the next step in upgrading that area of the car? For example:

Wilwood Black Out Master, Booster, and Prop Valve Combo

Would that Wilwood system be a good fit? Does anyone know of other options that would be a drop in at this point without too many headaches?

Info on the car that might help... Blueprint Engines 383 405hp/440tq, TH400, 14" ET Mag wheels, stock front discs / rear drums. Looks like I have an 11" power booster and the current master cylinder is 1-1/8" bore.

As an FYI, I WILL eventually be upgrading the entire wheel brake package (most likely 17"s with disc package to fit), but am not ready to take that financial dive quite yet. I just figured, if I'm pulling out the master cylinder, would it be a good time to upgrade? At the end of the day, if it makes more sense to buy all of the upgraded brake equipment at one time as a package, sometime down the road, I'm fine with the stock replacement master cylinder right now. At least the car will be driveable in a couple weeks.

Thanks in advance for all the comments and feedback from people that have been faced with this dilemma!
You could get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, if it is an original one you might want to keep it, although I guess it isn't a numbers matching car. I would think the booster is probably fine, brake fluid just peeled the paint off of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You could get a rebuild kit for the master cylinder, if it is an original one you might want to keep it, although I guess it isn't a numbers matching car. I would think the booster is probably fine, brake fluid just peeled the paint off of it.
Do you know how I know if it’s original? Tia!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The latest debacle. The master I bought, primed, painted, and bench bled doesn’t have the recess for a long booster rod. Kicking myself I didn’t notice. Does anyone know if the MC plunger on the old MC can be swapped into the new MC, along with rubber seals and such? TIA!
404965
 

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Do you know how I know if it’s original? Tia!
Mine is a Delco Moraine p/n 5470409, this will be on the casting. It will have number for a date (mine is 239) which is August 26, 1969. Your booster doesn't look original, maybe just painted. If it is it will have a little tab sticking up and should have a number stamped on one side of it of 2904 and the other side will be the date, mine is 199 which is July 18, 1969. An original Delco Moraine booster will have Delco Moraine stamped on the front of it and it will be stamped upside down.
 

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Looks like your master is the original one, I can't make out the number for the date in your picture.
The number stamped is a julian date meaning go to a 1970 calendar and count how many days down like the number 30 (which would be January 30th.) I don't see a picture of the tab on your booster, that I told you about in above post, so don't know if it is original. I see that it is an upside down Delco Moraine. If you don't use the MC you can probably sell it here on this site, as they are getting hard to find for a correct restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks like your master is the original one, I can't make out the number for the date in your picture.
The number stamped is a julian date meaning go to a 1970 calendar and count how many days down like the number 30 (which would be January 30th.) I don't see a picture of the tab on your booster, that I told you about in above post, so don't know if it is original. I see that it is an upside down Delco Moraine. If you don't use the MC you can probably sell it here on this site, as they are getting hard to find for a correct restoration.
Thanks for all the support and feedback. It's much appreciated!!
 
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