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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I started working on setting my springs onto the differential and have a couple of questions.

In the first photos, they show the springs being snugged down but not super tight. The nuts feel like they can be pulled down quite a bit more but I don't want to bend the corners down. In the past I had seen some photos of guys pulling down the bolts until the corners of the plate bend and I don't want to have that happen. If I pull them down until they are tight and make up the distance between the differential mount and the plate with washer, will that work or should there be something that I need to buy?

In the second set of photos, it shows the eyelet bushings mounted in the eyelet but they are not tight. They will easily turn in the hole as shown in the photos. Also, they are wide by about a quarter of an inch. That quarter of an inch is shown by me moving the bushings from side to side. When they are finally in the body mount bracket and tightened down, will they compress and bulge inside the eyelet to fill up the gap?

I bought the springs and a complete mount kit from Detroit Springs

I hope I explained what I am asking well enough to get an answer.
 

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From your pictures it looks like you have the rubber pads on both top and bottom of the springs, I took one out. The perches just aren't made to hold three leafs and two pads. I went back and looked at pictures, and it looks like I took the top one out and left the bottom one in.

And yes, the bushings will bulge.
 

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There ya go .... good answer jd .

I do agree the end bushings will bulge. But more like the top picture.... space them evenly ... not like your lower pic ... make them 'bulge even' on each side ---- make sense .

and, keep going ... looking better with each question .... jim
 

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my 2cents is get rid of the T bolts and get you some U-bolts that go around the axle Much stronger and safer. Esp. if that was a mono leaf housing.
And get rid of the pad at the housing it will put more of the spring into the spring area and will aid in keeping the springs square as well.
 

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63 SS convertible 67 SS 4 spd
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my 2cents is get rid of the T bolts and get you some U-bolts that go around the axle Much stronger and safer. Esp. if that was a mono leaf housing.
And get rid of the pad at the housing it will put more of the spring into the spring area and will aid in keeping the springs square as well.
That's exactly what I had to do. Got U-bolts to replace the T-bolts and I took out BOTH pads. Of course when I put in shims to correct the pinion angle I was back to the same issue.
 

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I bought my 3 leaf from a local spring co it is a direct replacement. I didn’t use any pads they seem to fit like they are not supposed to have any pads on the multi leaf, it seems like they made the spring perch to fit a multi leaf spring without any pads and used the pads for the mono to take up the extra space in the perch then they only had to stamp one part



 

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1965 2door HT Helena, GA 31037
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
OK guys, good info from all of you.

The Detroit spring kit did come with U-bolts and T-bolts and I elected to go with the T-bolts mainly because I had already installed the Right Stuff brake lines and the U-bolts looked like they would crimp the lines. Another thing that nudged me towards the T-bolts was that I will never be racing my Nova and don't think I'd ever need the added strength of the U-bolts.

I had previously read others removed their rubber pads but couldn't remember why they did that. From the photo it does look like a better fit without them so I'm thinking I'll pull them out.

Now that you've made me feel better about the bushings swelling due to being compressed, do you think I'll have a problem getting them to slip into the front body brackets? I'm working totally by myself so making things easier is a must.

One more thing...what's this about having to change the pinion angle? Am I going to have to deal with that also?

Hoping to see the shop fill up with the Nova coming home next week. :D
 

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Once you get it all together and on the ground, you can measure the pinion angle and compare to the driveshaft angle. I bought an inexpensive bubble angle measuring tool from the hardware store to do this. Google driveshaft angles to research driveshaft/pinion angles. If you are right around stock height, you should not have to make adjustments, but it is a good idea to check it to make sure you won't have driveline vibration issues or angles that bind your u-joints.
 

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Nothing wrong with th' T-bolts ... they have survived many years (still using them on my 69 w/mono's) ... but, since you're there you can just tweak your brake lines out just a little and the u-bolts should go in.
Easy ..... bend out your brake lines (away from your rear-end housing) just enough to insert the u-bolts .... it will-not change a thing --- but stronger. (my 73 parts car has one u-bolt & one T-bolt on each side .. just a thought ) .

As far as the "rubber pads go' .. look back at "hbanger's picture" ......
that works good ...... once they are tighten down --- they (springs) can-not move . Hi Brian ... rear looks good & now 5-lugs .
 

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OK guys, good info from all of you.

The Detroit spring kit did come with U-bolts and T-bolts and I elected to go with the T-bolts mainly because I had already installed the Right Stuff brake lines and the U-bolts looked like they would crimp the lines. Another thing that nudged me towards the T-bolts was that I will never be racing my Nova and don't think I'd ever need the added strength of the U-bolts.

I had previously read others removed their rubber pads but couldn't remember why they did that. From the photo it does look like a better fit without them so I'm thinking I'll pull them out.

Now that you've made me feel better about the bushings swelling due to being compressed, do you think I'll have a problem getting them to slip into the front body brackets? I'm working totally by myself so making things easier is a must.

One more thing...what's this about having to change the pinion angle? Am I going to have to deal with that also?

Hoping to see the shop fill up with the Nova coming home next week. :D

If you are concerned about U bolts and your brake lines just use the U bolts on the inner holes Chevy used one U bolt and one set of T bolts on each perch
 
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