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Need some advice on this one guys. I just bought a new 6al ignition with mechanical advance distributor. Here is what I have
355, 12:1, roller rockers 1.5 intake 1.6 exhaust, RPM airgap intake with proform 750 center section and 650 metering blocks, 3800 stall with powerglide 1.76 1st gear, transbrake and 4:10 in the rear, Dougs headers with 2.5 V Force Mufflers
Cam is a solid lifter:
Operating Range: 4000-7500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 290° Intake / 298° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 252° Intake / 260° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .536'' Intake / .554'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
My question is which curve would you start out with given my current engine setup? I figured I'd start out with 12-14 degrees initial and have a total of 37.
At what RPM would I want it all in by? Is it true if I have it all in by 2500 or so it will help my ET? I know thats probably not the best for street driving but I can always change the springs and bushing when I'm not at the track.
355, 12:1, roller rockers 1.5 intake 1.6 exhaust, RPM airgap intake with proform 750 center section and 650 metering blocks, 3800 stall with powerglide 1.76 1st gear, transbrake and 4:10 in the rear, Dougs headers with 2.5 V Force Mufflers
Cam is a solid lifter:
Operating Range: 4000-7500 RPM
Duration Advertised: 290° Intake / 298° Exhaust
Duration @ .050'' Lift: 252° Intake / 260° Exhaust
Valve Lift w/1.5 Rockers: .536'' Intake / .554'' Exhaust
Lobe Separation Angle: 112°
My question is which curve would you start out with given my current engine setup? I figured I'd start out with 12-14 degrees initial and have a total of 37.
At what RPM would I want it all in by? Is it true if I have it all in by 2500 or so it will help my ET? I know thats probably not the best for street driving but I can always change the springs and bushing when I'm not at the track.