Car had factory a/c and heat but previous owner removed both. I installed the fiberglass a/c delete panel to hook the heater back up. Everything works but need to mount the resistor and relay somewhere.
The relay I can just mount to the outside of the fiberglass heater box or I might solder linger wires to tuck it into the fender below the blower motor.
The resistor is a different story. Looks like I should cut a hole in the heater box and insert it like the factory a/c box but it would be deep enough to almost touch the firewall.
Has anyone else done this or have recommendations?
Ended up cutting a hole in the top of the a/c delete box and installing it there. Doesn’t fit perfect but it works. I also cut the factory harness to relocated the relay in the fender. Properly soldered in new wire of matching size and heat shrunk the wires. Cleaned it all up with some wire loom.
I also cut the factory harness to relocated the relay in the fender. Properly soldered in new wire of matching size and heat shrunk the wires. Cleaned it all up with some wire loom.
Just a heads up, but maybe think about rotating the relay to where the terminals are on the bottom. How it is now water could collect in the stamped tin lid and then short or rot things out in the relay.
Just a heads up, but maybe think about rotating the relay to where the terminals are on the bottom. How it is now water could collect in the stamped tin lid and then short or rot things out in the relay.
Yep it was just something I noticed. I've seen upside down relays before under the hoods of vehicles and sometimes you might never have issues BUT you never know.
If you are running inner wheel housings, can you easily get to the relay with it in place ?. I know the older I get the easier I like to be able to get at things.
Yep it was just something I noticed. I've seen upside down relays before under the hoods of vehicles and sometimes you might never have issues BUT you never know.
If you are running inner wheel housings, can you easily get to the relay with it in place ?. I know the older I get the easier I like to be able to get at things.
I’m running inner fenders and the likely hood of water getting splashed on it is low. It would have to be water running down from the cowl. It’s not easily accessible but loosening the inner fender isn’t that hard. Need to put in a missing fender bolt and nit that was missing anyways.
I'd like to replace the foam seal on the large flapper. I have the kit but it has only 1 piece that is sized for the flapper, which from the factory has foam on both sides. Would the new foam go on the side you can see and is it possible to remove the flapper?
Thanks.
Hello everyone,
As tittle says I'm looking for a reputable brand other than Griffin for 72 Nova with 350 SBC, manual trans and looking for a direct fit or close to.
I was quoted over 1000$ cdn for a Griffin.
Ok folks I am looking for some help in engineering an "Out of the box" solution for a problem I have with my 66 Chevy II.
I have a 871 blown 355 in my car and I have good coolant temp control whenever the car is moving, not an issue, if I am driving, even at low speeds like 10 mph, she will keep...
Does anyone have any experience with Champion radiators. I am looking at there 3 row part # cc6267 along with the factory shroud. Currently i have not had any major overheating issues but if i get caught in traffic i start to get nervous. So i am just looking to stay ahead of the game.
Thanks...
So the 1970 Nova did not come factory with a coolant overflow tank (from what I have read). I noticed that my radiator always balances out to have about 2-3 inches of low coolant when cool. If I fill the radiator completely and drive it then it will puke out a fair bit upon stopping and parking...
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