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Discussion Starter #1
350 sbc, .it's been out of the car for like...geez 12 yrs give or take...
anything I need to check before assembling it almost completely and putting it back in??(at my pace im still a while away.) Car hasn't ran for ...well 12 yrs give or take.
I've Considered rotating by hand and checking leak down etc..but I discovered the crank snout is all boogered..I removed the crankshaft pulley and the Bolt in the snout itself has loctit e bummed all on it.
when I pressed on the professional products dampner yrs ago I'm not really sure what happened...factory threads were 7/16x20? I've read u can possibly drill and tsp.for 1/2x20 but what if it's 1/2x20 now?(i kinda think it is )
Ultimately i d like to turn it over by hand and do a leak down test but what do I do if the snouts threads are jacked up?
 

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The snout is damaged or the threads?

If its the snout, I would try polishing it with some crocus cloth after filing down any burrs.

If the threads are bad for the balancer bolt; I would start by chasing them with a tap. If they were truly damaged, I'd probably use a helicoil; that being said I would verify that there is no contraindication to using a helicoil in a rotating part as I cant seem to remember ever using one there. Make sure you use the proper tool to install the balance and not try and draw it on using the bolt. I also believe you can drill and tap deeper into the crank and use a longer bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
After I posted I did more googling and got the answer that I could use longer bolts attached to the harmonic balancer also to rotate the engine but ultimately it was the threads in the snout that are questionable..
Like I said yes ago when I pulled the harmonic balancer off and installed the new one.

What got me was videos of people rotating motors by hand with a bolt going into the center of the crankshaft snout...after removing the crank pulley yesterday and seeing the thrresds I figured trying to put more than 35/40 lbs of pressure on it would've mangled the threads more.
A pic or two would help I suppose lol
 

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You never want to try to rotate an assembled engine using the bolt in the end of the crank. It can take more torque than the bolt should have applied to get it to rotate. Pull the pulley off and bolt on an adapter made for that purpose.

Here is what you need.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-66782?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-proform-parts&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3tGnkve64gIVl7XACh0LCw4kEAQYASABEgLzdPD_BwE

If you have the damper off, then use one of these.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1063?rrec=true
 

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If you end up disassembling the engine, which is honestly what I would do, you could just buy a new crank. SBC 3.48 cranks are the cheapest crankshaft you can buy. I would definitely pull 1 main and 1 rod bearing and check them for wear. My opinion is while you have the engine out, go through it and freshen it up with a hone, rings and bearings and turn the crank. I would also pull a few valve springs off and check for valve guide wear and the condition of valve seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the feedback..especially seventynovass

Those links and tools u posted make a lot of sense..
I was considering a breaker bar between scrap bolts bolted into the damnper.

Disassembling the motors not out of the question..I'm kinda overwhelmed by it all really...
If only I knew now what's I'd known back when....geez...
 

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kinda the same problem

however my motor was fully built and everything was buttoned up (back in 2009) and I have never started it. for a few months after it was built I would prime it using a distributor tool thing I hooked up to a drill. what steps can I do now to try to turn it over and get the oil flowing again? I plan on working on my '66 SS soon and installing this 327 in it too, using a FiTech Go-EFI classic system. i'll be posting more about that when the times comes! Thanks for the info : )
 
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