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Discussion Starter #1
I got the rear sliders hooked up today, ran some 1 3/4" tubing across the back with end plates welded to the old frame, nothced the tubing for some 3/16" plates for the slider to rest on. Sits lower than stock setup, p[lus put some 3" lowering blocks in, new springs and have my 14x6 with 3 1/2" BS wheels on. Can't fit the big boys till I minitub it (next week).

I think I really like the new stance. (wife asked if I was fenderskirting it, hmmmm)







 

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Duane, i haven't re-researched it... but didn't ya have ta run a special leafs ta go with the sliders ???


i have new Multi's that i'd like ta maybe use sliders with... can i ???
 

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Question from a dummy.

Just what do sliders accomplish?

Seriously.
 

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they remove the arc of the hangars and allow the movement of spring in a forward/rearward motion instead of an arc... i think... there's a link in the Library... want me ta get for ya Jonesy ???
 

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the Flyer said:
they remove the arc of the hangars and allow the movement of spring in a forward/rearward motion instead of an arc... i think... there's a link in the Library... want me ta get for ya Jonesy ???
Thanks, but I think I can manage.
 

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I used a slightly different approach to mounting my sliders . I welded the sliders to a 3/16 plate and then cut the original shackles down to fit on top of the plate , with the plate pulled up tight against the bottom of the frame , and then bolted the whole thing up to the original mounting point on the frame . The beauty of this type of mount is that you can also move the rear of the springs inboard by just making the plate wider and offsetting the shackle halves welded to the top , or you can go back to shackles by simply unbolting the sliders and mount the shackles back on . BTW I'm running Cal Tracks w/Calvert Racing split monos , springs moved inboard 1 1/4 inch on each side . I had to have a bushing built at a machine shop to mate the spring to the slider (very simple mods , larger o/d , thicker shoulder ).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Johny, the bushings that come with the sliders are smaller OD than the chevy's, probably 1 1/4 vice our 1 3/4" (give or take). I'm assuming the chrysler bushings are the smaller 1 1/4". I had a set of poly bushings that work with them, so I think thats the only difference.

I have a set of Afco multi leafs on it.
 

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Thanks Duane, i've followed Mike's comment on these a few times and had 'em saved... but i guess i lost 'em... the one Mike posted is one that i was looking for the other day and couldn't find myself... and here i stuck it in the library !!! i remember Mike saying some stuff about the Mopar springs... i did remember that, but i wasn't sure if that's what YOU are running, so i thought i could ask again...

Thanks for that link again Mike... i'll remember it better next time... and thanks Duane for setting me straight...... again !!! :rolleyes: :D :D :D
 

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cheby2 said:
I welded the sliders to a 3/16 plate and then cut the original shackles down to fit on top of the plate , with the plate pulled up tight against the bottom of the frame , and then bolted the whole thing up to the original mounting point on the frame.
Whoa...this sounds too cool, especially since I'm gonna have to replace the rear suspension components anyhow. I'm a bit thick, though, so bare with me for a second...

Should I use correct application leaf springs for my 63 vert, or won't they work with the sliders? Alternate PN/application?

When mounting the slider assembly, I imagine it would just be a matter of removing the stock shackle assembly and correctly locating/welding the slider to the frame...but this sounds a bit too simplistic.

cheby2 - do you have some pics to show your version?

thanks, fellas.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good idea Cheb, looks like that worked out good for you.

BTW nice pictures of your ride there.

Did you remove your cowl??????
 

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the Flyer said:
Duane, i haven't re-researched it... but didn't ya have ta run a special leafs ta go with the sliders ???


i have new Multi's that i'd like ta maybe use sliders with... can i ???

Johnny there is a company that makes sliders for the GM spring...It was mentioned in another thread I will see if I can find it...I want to use them on my car too when I get that far...:)

EDIT: here it is

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22573&highlight=Landrum

I believe that Speedway sells Landrum products

http://stevesnovasite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30102&highlight=Landrum
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thats where I got mine was from Landrum. The stock bushings work, not to mention I think I paid 95 bucks to the door for them. Afco wants 55 a piece?
 

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cowl

Duane , yes I did make the cowl removable . I had to take the cowl panel off to repair some rust ( btw there are exactly 100 spot welds on it ) and after doing a couple of 68 Camaros , thought I would modify the cowl simular to those cars cowl . The rear of the panel slips underneath the windshield gasket , and the front is attached by stainless screws . Now I can keep that area clean and you can get a good paint job under the grilles ! Terry
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thats cool as sh!t. You got my head thinking now.

What did you use to cut the spot welds. Thinking a spot weld bit would work but that would be an awful lot of welding to fill the holes back in.
 

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Yes I used a spot weld bit and yes it was a lot of holes to weld up ! There is a pic of the car with the panel off in the link in my sig. ( last pic on the second page ) I also filled the air intake hole that passes through the lower sheetmetal in the cowl area . I used a big brass punch on the back side of the holes and just took my time . The holes at the rear of panel don't need to be filled as the rear is trimed to just slide under the windshield gasket ( about 3/8" ) . I cut the sides off and reattached them to the cowl so that the gap lined up with the gap between the hood and fender . Terry
 
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