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Discussion Starter #1
Some interesting pics. The first two is of where I'm sure it started. It has the most concentration of heat damage.


This cup was full of soda and ice!

Enough heat was generated to melt the belt retractor covers in the rear of the car.


The sunvisors and a close up from outside.


Hopefully I know in a few days what the insurance company is going to do.
There's very little in the interior that may be salvaged. The rear panels look OK, the seat frames should be fine but all the padding, etc, will have to be redone because of smoke damage.
 

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Was there any non factory electrical items in that area? A fused circuit should not allow a fire to start. A short will open the circuit by burning the fuse open, some circuits have fusible links that work the same way. There are only a few hot circuits with the ignition off; the lighting group IE:courtesy lamps, cigar lighter and glove box lamp, the stop lamp circuit including the hazard lights and the headlamp circuit including dash and running lights. The other puzzling thing is even if a wire shorted out and created heat what was in that area flammable enough to ignite?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good questions Philip

Wish I knew the answer. Hopefully when we start disassembling everything an answer will be discovered but much is melted away. I can't think of anything in that area that should have had power once the car was shut off.
I guess it possible it started under the hood but then it had to penetrate the firewall and burn up thru the windshield which would have taken a while. By then you'd think the entire engine compartment would have ben involved and thats not the case. While it only took the FD a few minutes to arrive the fire was obviously spreading forward not back.
The insurance co. wants to investigate a bit, maybe they'll come up with an idea.
 

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I have a friend who's racecar caught fire. He contacted Autometer, MSD and other companies and told them what happen. Autometer and MSD replaced burnt up parts for him. Give them a call and see if they'll help you out.
 

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I have a friend who's racecar caught fire. He contacted Autometer, MSD and other companies and told them what happen. Autometer and MSD replaced burnt up parts for him. Give them a call and see if they'll help you out.
I'll give it a try. Never hurts to ask!!
The estimator thought it started under the hood not inside the car. We'll probably never know for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
fire extinguisher & insurance

I'm sorry dude, I hope that car will be ready to roll soon.
.....but now you got me all paranoid about my car.
LOL!
Be sure to get GOOD insurance. Do a search and read the posts here for some very good advice. My car is insured with an antique policy at full stated replacement value. The cost is very affordable.

Second, get a good fire extinguisher. Mine did no good as it was inside the car. With smoke and flames already thru the windshield by the time I got to it there was no way I was going to risk injury by opening a door and groping around blindly inside the car to reach it. The smoke and fumes are extremely toxic let alone the heat and fire itself!
While heartbreaking to watch it burn there is no way I'll risk my life and health to save a car.
 

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LOL!
Be sure to get GOOD insurance. Do a search and read the posts here for some very good advice. My car is insured with an antique policy at full stated replacement value. The cost is very affordable.
What company did you insure with? I can't get the classic insurance because I store mine in a carport. They want locked garages, gated communities,. twin .50 cals for crossfire, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
State Farm

Used my regular insurance carrier- State Farm. They have insurance for antique and classic cars that is very comparable to the specialty firms in terms of coverage and cost. Just need to certain it is a stated value policy for the appraised value of the car. The policy costs me ~$400/year for a $23,500 value with only a $100 deductible and comprehensive coverage for everything under the sun.
FWIW mine is kept under a carport and car cover as well, it was never an issue with them.
 

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Be very careful with the "stated value" stuff, as it varies by policy. If it's not a specialty car policy, often times it will be worded as "the lesser of the book value and the stated value", and you're SOL at claim time. Many agents don't even realize this. If it's written that way, the company adjuster looks at $xx,xxx vs $500 book value, and hands you the $500.
 

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Be very careful with the "stated value" stuff, as it varies by policy. If it's not a specialty car policy, often times it will be worded as "the lesser of the book value and the stated value", and you're SOL at claim time. Many agents don't even realize this. If it's written that way, the company adjuster looks at $xx,xxx vs $500 book value, and hands you the $500.
Exactly you want agreed value. Hagerty, American Collectors, and Grundy are the ones that come to mind right off the top of my head. Anything other than agreed value leads to interpretation. Stated value just gives them a vague starting point. They can still depreciate the car for various reasons, inducing age, mileage and perceived condition.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
clarification

Thanks for clarifying the terminology guys. I know my policy is an agreed value policy, memory just wasn't correct.
 

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Mike I remember you getting an appraisal right after you were done. Was this a certified appraisal? If so it was recent enough to have some bearing on your claim. I insure my fun cars with Hagerty and the daily drivers with State Farm.
State Farm has never given me any problems with claims. Last week Mary decided to introduce herself to the 89 year old woman in the car in front of her. I bought the car in January for $1900 and they just paid $2500 to repair it, and it only took a week to get it back. The retail value is over $5k (we got a really good deal on the car), so it wasn't a battle of value and your recent appraisal should indicate a retail value as well.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
appraisal

Yes Philip that was a formal appraisal required by State Farm for the antique/classic car policy. It valued the car at $23,500 about a year ago.
So far I dont anticipate any trouble with State Farm. Should have a firm answer this week.
 

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dude that sucks!!!! was the wireing original to the car? it makes me think about when i bought my nova. as soon as i got it home i started lookin into the wireing, and saw some shaddy repairs. 5 min later i was pulling the harness out completly. i replaced the harness with all new. that way i know my wireing is alittle safer then someone elses hack job.

Good luck with either getin the car rebuilt, or reinbursed
 

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Discussion Starter #17
wiring

Yes the wiring was the original. Needless to to say it won't be after the rebuild!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
wiring

Thanks but I think I'll go for a new set up from painless. Guess going w/30 year old wiring again has me a bit nervous!!....LOL!
 
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