Chevy Nova Forum banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So now after getting carb straightened out with a lot of help from sns it's just shutting off. Drove it twice since the sputtering issue. 20 miles first time no problems. Then went to a drive by birthday party then a cruise around my local town was having. Probably 40 miles and some cruising around town for a half hour or longer no problems. Went to get a pizza and it died just as I was pulling away. Fired right up and got 50 feet into the parking lot and died. Wouldn't start. Had it towed home. Got in next morning fired right up and got it back in garage. Started it up and let it idle for maybe 10 minutes shut off. Like someone is turning key off. Wouldn't start up again. Could a module cause this? Havent really started checking things yet. Had fuel in the filter with a brand new pump on it. Will pull I wire off and see if is getting fire when it happens again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,418 Posts
Sounds like an ignition related issue.. It could be something simple like a loose wire or bad contact. Stator module is a possibility but I’d check the simple things first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Let it set for 45 minutes tried to start it fired up ran about 5 minutes and died pulled number 1 plug wire off stuck a plug in it cranked it over no spark
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
I'd be looking at your 12v wire to your distributor first for a possible ground or loose connection. Intermittent problems are tough. At least it's narrowed down now to ignition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
Air - Fuel - Spark - and, you have air & fuel . I hate these "run / don't run " cars (I've had several).
When checking (looking at) your 'wiring and connections' - - -- just because they look OK - grab them & move them around as much as you can. (with the motor running - if you can) . A lot of times 'wires look ok , but could be broken inside :
thus the moving around part .
I agree with Nova Thug - & - Bob . . . . "intermittent contact" ( either wire or connection ) . How's old is u'r
ign. module (I've seen those act-up - intermittent problems ) .
Keep us posted ( and, your not alone , around here) .
…. later , jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I'm pulled around and wires tried to start ran 30 seconds. Pulled module can I test it or do I need to take it to advance or the zone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
I had the same problem about a month ago and thought it was the external coil. Replaced that with no change and still no fire to the plugs and it ended up being the ignition module. All the grease was gone from between the mounting plate and old module that was supposed to protect it from the engine heat. But it only cost around $35 for a new one at the local parts store and it started right up and has been running strong since.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I would replace the module. They are cheap. Sounds like the module is geeting hot and either opening the circuit or shorting out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
Before just blaming the module you need to do a test to see if there is even 12V+ at the distributor/coil when it looses spark at the plugs.
You could have a wiring problem between the ignition switch and distributor or even have an ignition switch that is failing and loses contact when it heats up.

Or you can just keep throwing parts at it random.

That "grease" on the backside of the module isn't to prevent engine heat getting into the module.... it is heat sink compound, it's job is to transfer module heat out of the module and into the distributor body so the module doesn't overheat and burn out.

Don't mistake silicone dialectric compound used in spark plug boots for heat sink compound, they are not the same nor interchangeable, dialectricompound insulates and will fry a module.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
I recall from your other post that you had an HEI... but I could not remember if you confirmed that the wire connected to the BAT terminal on the distributor cap was getting full voltage (12+ volts) when the ignition key is in the RUN position.

I agree with the others that your ignition module might be going bad... but if your coil (that is in the cap) is starting to go bad, it will also kill the ignition module... even a new one. If your not sure about the condition of the coil, it might pay to replace the coil at the same time you replace your ignition module. A recommended module for an HEI is the NAPA TP45.
Be sure to apply a thin coat of Heat Transfer Compound (not dielectric grease) on the back of the new module prior to installation. The thermal paste used on the underside of computer chips/CPUs works great as a heat sink compound for HEI modules.
NOTE: I also keep a spare HEI module (NAPA TP45) and a small tube of heat transfer compound in my glove box just in case I have a roadside module failure.

P.S... I'm not sure if any of the auto parts stores even test the HEI modules any more. If you happen to find one that still tests HEI modules, please let us know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,078 Posts
Ok - - I should have said = before you removed the ignition module = for what both "Mike & Eric
said" . (about getting / having full 12 volts at the dist. 'module connection' ) . . . . . . . . easy to check
or test = install just a jumper wire from bat + to dist. module connection - - - - = just like a hot wiring
. . . . . just too 'test run' . . . . . . . start motor , see how long it runs ? (sorry) . But, how old is the mod .
Really shouldn't matter (new one's will be bad - sometimes) .
If you install a new ign-mod , then, won't keep running - -- - - then, try the 'hot - wire' - & check for
12 volts . Check your Dist. cap inside & out = for cracks - condition ? and Rotor cap .
Sit back & have a 'cold-one' …………… before this ( & the carb / timing issue ; were there any other things
that were worked on ) ? Any passed "intermittent issues" - - - like years or months , ago ?
just asking . . . . . . jim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
283 Posts
Again, did you have 12v at distributor/coil when it wouldn't start? Doing this simple test would cut your trouble shooting significantly. Guessing and taking out parts for testing could create other issues you have to deal with. Listen closely to the guys above giving you guidance, they know their cars. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Ok I ran I hot wire from battery to the positive side of the coil with alligator clips. Fired it up and let it run 10 minutes or so didnt die. I'm assuming the hot to coil comes off the ignition switch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
The hot wire for the coil that was originally connected to the ignition switch had a resistor in the wire to lower the voltage at the coil when using a points distributor. An HEI distributor (and coil) runs off of full battery voltage.

Try this test if you have a volt meter (if you do not have a volt meter... or multi-meter, it is probably a good idea to get one if you want to troubleshoot issues that may pop up in the future).
  • Set the volt meter to DC volts.
  • With the engine not running, place the positive lead of the volt meter on the + battery terminal and the negative lead of the - battery terminal.... what is you voltage reading?
  • With the engine still off, disconnect the wire that is connected to the BAT terminal of your HEI cap... and turn your ignition key to the RUN position only (do not start the engine).
  • Place the positive lead of the volt meter on the end terminal of the wire you just disconnected from the cap's BAT terminal and place the negative lead of the volt meter on a good engine ground (the intake manifold will work for a ground).... what is you voltage reading?
  • Turn your ignition key off and reconnect the wire you disconnected from the BAT terminal on the distributor cap.
With the engine not running, the voltage observed at the battery AND the voltage observed on the distributor cap's BAT wire should be about the same. If not, your HEI may not be wired correctly.

NOTE: The wire that is connected to the BAT terminal on the distributor cap should be at least 10-12 gauge along its entire length going to the power source.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
271 Posts
what kind of ignition are you running? to add to the good troubleshooting advice above, the two times I had this issue, I had the wrong resistance coil (I have a pertronix flame thrower ii)

I also blew that ballast resistor that RifRaf mentioned above. its a little ceramic block on the firewall near the dash wiring bulkead on driver side. turns out it wasn't supposed to be on there at all for my setup.

I would also check the ignition wire connection at that bulk head. It would be red on both the left harness of the bulk head to your distributor and red again on the right harness going to the horn relay. (thats my setup anyway)

hope that helps. good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,180 Posts
One other question...
I noticed in another post that you had written recently, it looks like you removed the dust cover from your HEI coil... and the screws that hold the coil in place are removed.
404914

  • Did you recently do something with your HEI coil?
  • Did you check that all of the coil ground wires/terminals (both above and below the coil) were connected correctly when reinstalling the coil screws?
  • If you removed and/or replaced the coil, did you reinstall the rotor bushing and insulator in the correct order (see image below)?
404915
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Ok I had 12.43 at the battery and 12.26 at the wire that goes to battery side of the cap. I took the top of the cap to expose the coil. I checked voltage on the coil side of the connector and it was only reading 2.5 volts at the blue circle in picture.
20200520_133623.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
414 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
That is also where I jumped the coil at directly to battery and it ran until I unhooked it from battery
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top