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yeah, i don't like that... doesn't look right.

i notice one bolt isn't a starter bolt? if that's right i think you should have both bolts serrated as called for... don't think that's even your issue but when you get it figured out i think it'd be best. ;)
 

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Thanks Flyer, yea no shims was first now Trying every method. And those were the bolts it came with?
 

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geeze, i don't know what to tell you... does the starter rotate, is it clockable? if so loosen it up and see if it'll shift. if not the 153 takes one set of holes, the 168 the other. there is no way to install it but the way it is... either shims or no shims. if it won't fit, send it back and get the Delco style mini... i've used that style (not brand) and no shims were used and it was perfect...
 

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i had a similar problem on a 400. it hit the flywheel on every crank, i tired a multitude of shims and different clocking, ended up eating the flywheel. now there is a mini vette style starter in it. problem solved.
 

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The starter works, and yea it has a 400 transmission I pull the stock delco off to replace it with this one to avoid the hot start problem. I'll check out some other ones and cut my loss.
 

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After looking at your video it is clear to see the starter ring gear is hitting your flywheel. I suggest Check pinion engagement. Pull pinion out to engage ring gear. This can be done by:
– U sing a tool to pry the pinion out of the starter or connect 12 VDC to the “Switch” terminal ONLY (DO NOT connect battery cable
to “BAT ” terminal on the starter solenoid). This engages the solenoid but does not spin the starter. CAUTION: Do not leave the
solenoid engaged like this for more than 30 seconds at a time as the solenoid will overheat. This will allow you to line up the ring gear on the starter with the flywheel. Then you should be able to shim the starter enough to get a tight fit. With the ring gear aligned with the flywheel you know when the starter is engaged the teeth are going to line up. Then it just getting the shims in for a tight bolted fit. Once you have the starter ring gear clocked to the flywheel you know the gear is set to align with the flywheel. Then just shim slightly until it clears. Maybe you have already tried this but if not worth a try and might save have to buy a new one. Hope the best.
 

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After looking at your video it is clear to see the starter ring gear is hitting your flywheel. I suggest Check pinion engagement. Pull pinion out to engage ring gear. This can be done by:
– U sing a tool to pry the pinion out of the starter or connect 12 VDC to the “Switch” terminal ONLY (DO NOT connect battery cable
to “BAT ” terminal on the starter solenoid). This engages the solenoid but does not spin the starter. CAUTION: Do not leave the
solenoid engaged like this for more than 30 seconds at a time as the solenoid will overheat. This will allow you to line up the ring gear on the starter with the flywheel. Then you should be able to shim the starter enough to get a tight fit. With the ring gear aligned with the flywheel you know when the starter is engaged the teeth are going to line up. Then it just getting the shims in for a tight bolted fit. Once you have the starter ring gear clocked to the flywheel you know the gear is set to align with the flywheel. Then just shim slightly until it clears. Maybe you have already tried this but if not worth a try and might save have to buy a new one. Hope the best.
Yeap I always take a small screwdriver and pry the bendix gear out into the flexplate or flywheel and set the backlash using shims. All of mine were new engines so I do mine on the engine stand.
 

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I have the same style mini starter, had the same problem.
I finally decided to detach the aluminum mounting block
rotate it 180 deg. and reattach. It worked. The starter in
mine is not directly in the middle of the mounting block
so it gives more position choices. Didn't require any shims.
 
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