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Discussion Starter #1
What would be some good mechanical rollers to use on my 421 street engine build?
Are there some that are better suited for street driving?

Thanks
Don
 

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I'd recommend the Crower HIPO series. For street driving, that's your best option. The general consensus seems to generalize that mechanical rollers are not good for the street (implying no pressurized oiling system) due to the low RPM band that most are operated in. There's a tiny hole drilled in the lifter itself that leads to the needle bearings that receives pressurized oil. It improves lifter life.

I don't know about you, but I run a mechanical roller on the street, and my car will not idle right under 1000. Running a solid roller also implies a big cam, which also implies a higher idle.
 

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I'm going to use Isky RED ZONE rollers. They are the pressure fed mech lifters designed for street duty.
 

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I have been running solid rollers for years.

I used Lunati, Crane, Herbert & Crower.

No issue with any of them.

I do recommend a rev kit.

This keeps the roller in contact with the cam and prevents skipping.
Also helps reduce valve spring wear.

The valve lash will allow the roller to bounce and skip along the lifter lobe.

Horizontal bars lifter will make the install easiest.

 

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Morel Ultra Pro's with the pressure fed oiling is a very good choice. High rpm is not what destroys solid roller lifters, its low rpm idling that hammers the needles flat.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Good information on roller lifters. Thanks to all who responded.
Looks like the rev kit is the way to go.
Is there any difference between rev kits, hydraulic roller vs solid roller? Or are the springs the same for both?

Thanks Al for the photo.....

Don
 

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Good information on roller lifters. Thanks to all who responded.
Looks like the rev kit is the way to go.
Is there any difference between rev kits, hydraulic roller vs solid roller? Or are the springs the same for both?

Thanks Al for the photo.....

Don
Yes, lots of differences for different lifters. Some lifters (the cut-away style) can't use rev-kits. Just check with the manufacturer of the lifters you get.:yes:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
cstraub
I am just doing some "homework"
I am getting ready to order the heads. Don't have them yet.
AFR-1054 210 Eliminator race 64 chamber.
I need to find out the spring pressure requirements for this Lunati cam
(60142) then I can place the order for the heads.

Don
 

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Yes, lots of differences for different lifters. Some lifters (the cut-away style) can't use rev-kits. Just check with the manufacturer of the lifters you get.:yes:
They do make rev kits for the vertical bar lifters.

The seat cup is a tapered tube that fits on the out side of the push-rod cup.

Kinda funky looking.

http://www.dougherbert.com/revkit-p-10167.html

http://www.dougherbert.com/revkit-p-10168.html
Al, I knew the vertical bar lifters could use a typical rev kit. Some (because of the style of capturing) require a little different seat than others.
What I was referring to was the "Cut-away" style ultra-light weight style lifters. Like this:

Even seating on the pushrod cup area, there's not much of the lifter body there to "Seat" into or get captured and what's left on the back side to attach the vertical tie bars just gets in the way of a good fit.

Good to know they're doing something.:yes:

cstraub
I am just doing some "homework"
I am getting ready to order the heads. Don't have them yet.
AFR-1054 210 Eliminator race 64 chamber.
I need to find out the spring pressure requirements for this Lunati cam (60142)
then I can place the order for the heads.

Don
Don,
That's a solid flat tappet from the new VooDoo line.:yes: NOT A SOLID ROLLER.:no: It's not even on their web sight yet.:no:
I'd set them up with 140-to-145 on the seat and around 375 ACTUAL open. Definitely use the EDM'd lifters!! Shedding some weight on the valve side of things with Titanium retainers would help a bit too!! Those ramps are pretty aggressive and they need all the lube they can get.
 

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With core supply the way it is I grind all SBC on a P55 core. This is the old race core used for many years and it is much more durable.

Also AFR have very good I/E ratio, I don't know what this cam looks like but these heads respond very well to tight duration splits. . .2 to 4 degrees..

EDM lifters are the only way to go if you are going solid flat tappet.
 

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With core supply the way it is I grind all SBC on a P55 core. This is the old race core used for many years and it is much more durable.

Also AFR have very good I/E ratio, I don't know what this cam looks like but these heads respond very well to tight duration splits. . .2 to 4 degrees..

EDM lifters are the only way to go if you are going solid flat tappet.
FYI:
Lunati #60142
249 / 257
.540” / .560”
110 / 106
2800-7000
Would respond VERY well to more rocker ratio on the intake.:yes:
 

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What would be some good mechanical rollers to use on my 421 street engine build?
Are there some that are better suited for street driving?

Thanks
Don
Why not a hydaulic roller since this is a street car? That makes it quite simple and you don't have to worry about the other issues. The little bit of performance gain is not going to make any difference in a street car.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
HTML:
Would respond VERY well to more rocker ratio on the intake.
AFR recommends 1.6 rockers on intake and exhaust for the 60142 solid lifter cam.

HTML:
Why not a hydaulic roller since this is a street car? That makes it quite simple and you don't have to worry about the other issues. The little bit of performance gain is not going to make any difference in a street car.
I considered that and still have that as an option. It would be my first hydraulic experience.

I have a mechanical roller cam selected, and a solid lifter cam selected,
Now maybe it is time to put a hydraulic roller on the option list.

My machine shop did not bore the block yet so I have the advantage of patiently weighing lots of options as of now.

You guys are adding some good insight into the final decision. I appreciate it.

Don
 
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