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Discussion Starter #1
I have read the many thread on the MCPV-1! I also read the install on jollyrodder, but still have a few questions....

While running the front line(front brakes) the 3/16 fitting fit going into the bottom of the MC. However the first junction (LFW) the 3/16 fitting does not fit. I suppose it is cause the old line was 1/4 and didnt reduce until the fender wells or until the rears. So my question is.... Is their a adapter to make the 3/16 line fit or do I need to replace the junction block? If so I might as well replace the line behind the radiator.


Second question... Has anyone run a complete new rear brake line? I am looking for ideas or/and routing pics. I want to avoid looping it over the bell housing or the fire wall. And I dont think I could get the flairing tool down in the passenger wheelwell to flare the line. Trying to make it look really clean.

Thxs
 

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Discussion Starter #2
MCPV-1 is installed! In process on bleeding the brakes! I have fuild at the rear brakes now. I do not have any fuild at the front brakes yet. I had a loose banjo bolt that had a leak at on caliper but after tightening no fluid coming out of the bleed fitting. Any suggestions? I will try clamping off the flex lines tonight like mentioned in Klean63 car. :rolleyes:
 

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know one has any advice they can offer. Have been bleeding for hours and still air in front brakes.:mad:
Ok, Ill give some ill advice :) So you say air all day. Are you saying you are blowing air bubbles or just no fluid at all?? Im not familiar with the MCPV-1. Did you do a MC replace? Bench bleed the MC??

If you disconnect the banjo bolt and pump do you get a fluid flow?

If you do then when you hit the brakes with the bleeder loose I still gotta know if yer getting fluid or not. It sounds like you are not?? If not, and its the same for each caliper then I suspect the MC for a bench bleed.

Some times you dont need a bench bleeding routine if you have access to a nice strong vacuum. Hook the vacuum (not one of those one man self bleeder types, a motor driven one) up to the bleeder and pull the fluid through the MC. I have also made a pressurized cap for my MC and applied air pressure (LOW) to push the fluid through.

So both sides are the same or have you checked??

A lil more info and we can get this worked out. Brake systems are pretty simple being a closed system.. JR
 

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Did you read the quote below from the instructions?

Note: It may be necessary to temporarily remove the metering valve from the master cylinder in order to get the front circuit to start bleeding. To remove the valve, carefully remove the large hex headed cover from the side of the master cylinder. Pull the metering valve out of the master cylinder, and reinstall the cover. Do not loose the metering valve or it’s seal. After the front circuit is free of air, reinstall the metering valve and seals. Tighten the cover.
If you are running 4 wheel disc you leave the metering valve out, if not you reinstall it after bleeding then rebleed the lines.
Tg
 

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Discussion Starter #6
UPDATE! Got desperate and ended up putting a shop vac to the top of the bleeder screws:D. Got alittle fluid out. Then changed caps to the one with ports on top and put compressed air to the cylinder and opened one bleed scew at a time. WOW now I have alittle pedal. Have a buddy coming over to help bleed some more to see if I can get a better pedal and then we will have to adjust the prop. valve and test drive:eek:.

(yes the meter valve at thr front port was out during bleeding process. It just seems to be alot of area where air gets trapped. I really cant explain it but it a PITA to bleed.)
 

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I had problems with mine.Did you get the CPP calipers? My banjo leaked on one.I tossed them and went to -4 AN braided lines,you can get the fittings from Speedway Motors in the oval track stuff.When mine sat over night with a leaky banjo,the next morning I had brake fluid on the floor. Kinda bled itself! I have disc/drum and used my mighty vac to bleed them along with my boy pumping the pedal. I am happy with the performance of it,did about 90 mph today and she slowed down just nicely. I have not adjusted the prop valve and it doesn't feel like it needs it.Once I bed in the pads good,I'll take it to a back road and lock em up to test it.Oh, I did use the siringe to shove some fluid into the ports when I started. And yes there is a fitting to adapt the rear line,got it at Napa in brass,tee,plug and reducer.(I will run a brake bias gauge later)
 
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