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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #1
I am switching from manual to power brakes. The instuctions say if you are switching from manual brakes to power you must move the activation rod to the lower hole in the brake pedal which I did. It took me an hour to get the return brake spring on and now with the activation rod in the lower hole the return spring hits the brake light switch. I was wondering if I really even need the spring since the pedal seems to come back. Any suggestions? Anyone else run into this problem?
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you don't need the spring if you have power brakes.

Even in the assembly manual says it
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I wish I would have had that information before I wrestled that spring for an hour only to find that it would not work in the new position.
 

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Also your brake pedal should be about 1 to 1 1/4" lower then oem manual brakes. But most have adjustable clevis to keep pedal higher to avoid readjusting brake light switch. Also on oem style ones that i have installed (look correct and do not use adapter bracket kit) required 18-20 inches of vaccuum at idle!(reproduction change compared to oem) Not the best for some camshafts.

Just some info I learned from about 20 different 68-79 nova installs.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #5
Also your brake pedal should be about 1 to 1 1/4" lower then oem manual brakes. But most have adjustable clevis to keep pedal higher to avoid readjusting brake light switch. Also on oem style ones that i have installed (look correct and do not use adapter bracket kit) required 18-20 inches of vaccuum at idle!(reproduction change compared to oem) Not the best for some camshafts.

Just some info I learned from about 20 different 68-79 nova installs.
Thanks. I had the booster in and out sevral times yesterday and noticed that the pedal sit lower and the brake light switch would have to be adjusted. I hope there is enough adjustment for that.
 

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Any future plans on using that brake return spring? I would offer to buy it but that's against the rules. My 68 has manual brakes and is missing that spring and I had to make one that works.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #7
Any future plans on using that brake return spring? I would offer to buy it but that's against the rules. My 68 has manual brakes and is missing that spring and I had to make one that works.
I had two springs. I broke one trying to put it on. I have since taken the entire pedal assembly out. I am thinking about mounting the return spring in the top hole for extra measures. If I don't use it I will give you a shout. As much as I hate wroking under the dash if I had one that was working I would not worry about it.
 

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Oh great, now I read this! :turn: I did a power brake conversion on my Nova.

Well, I looked under my dash, and sure enough, I put the dang rod in the manual brake position. :mad:

Question for you: the lower position on my brake pedal looks like there should be a hole there, but there is not. Looks like the pedal was mis-stamped and the hole was not punched out... just an indentation there. Did you have this same problem? I don't want to take the pedal assembly out and drill the #$#@@! thing. :(

I hate crawling around under the dash! :mad:
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #9
My instructions said the brake pedal should have two holes and I have two brake pedals and both of them have two holes. They also say if yours does not have the second hole you will have to drill it. It could be different with different kits. Mine is the CPP kit. The booster and master cylinder really tilt up so I can see why it would be important to use the bottom hole with my kit. I am with you on that under the dash work. I had my 20 year old son under there today. He did a great job.
 

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1968 Chevy II Nova, Central Arkansas
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Discussion Starter #10
So I was told check wich hole the brake pedal was attached to .Both pedals are connected to the TOP hole.So I am staying with the top hole.
Like I said I am not sure if every conversion kit requires you to move to the bottom hole but it kind of makes me wonder why there is a bottom hole? I would not be suprised to find out that factory power brakes use the bottom hole.
Removing the spring does not sound like a good idea.If it was not needed with power brakes it would not have been installed in the first place.
My problem was when using the bottom hole the spring hit the brake light switch. I did not feel right not using the spring either so I put a pin in the top hole and hooked the spring back up just like it came.
 

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Im not sure on the setup you are using. I grabbed a cadillac MC and booster along with the pedal assembly for mine and there isnt a spring for the pedal. But it seems like a good idea to keep the pedal up, and preventing the weight of the pedal from dragging the brakes. JR
 
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